Dtsnlvrs

Eiji's car is beautiful, and the engine is a work of art. Datsun Spirit sources many of their parts directly from Japan. Eiji can seem to be a bit of an "odd duck" sometimes , but we all have our quirks....Great person to get to know, and a great company

Insane, just insane

Oh to have the A008's again....life would be grand:mrgreen:

Well, I am assuming there are no new updates due to the MASIVE amounts of snow between the house and the garage...lol

Well...honestly, neither set will produce enough for a good build, but I would use... 30mm chokes 130mains 170 airs 55f11 idles 40 pump drain 45 acell then get it on the dyno and start ordering jets

That may have some potential...hmmmmm...no more rust..ever

ROFLMAO

Dangit, I was gonna call him and talk about head stuff, since I will be...ummm...working overseas for a year, and will want a new head for when i get back...

Dang, ten years already...where has the time gone??

DONT DO ANYTHING TO THE CARBS...check your ignition timing first...chances are it is advanced too far. Always set the ignition timing to the stock setting prior to running a smog check....an over advanced ignition will cause the HC levels to be too high

My wife bought me my current Z as a birthday / wedding present before we were actually married. She has fully supported the habit, and has even helped me strip a couple of parts cars

Check the hazard switch...ALL power for turn signals and brake lights goes thru this switch

The Power resistor mod IIRC is used to enable a 260-280 tach to work with a MSD. The 240 has a CURRENT triigered tach not a VOLTAGE triggered tach, no resistor mod will ever get it to work with a square wave signal...you MUST create a "false" coil draw for the tach to FEED in order for it to work. http://www.msdpowersports.com/pdf/frm22049_pn8920.pdf IMHO in a 240 the options are...buy the 60 buck part and wire it in as per MSD, or buy all new gauges..cause lets face it, having just the tach non stock is kinda tachy Oh and BTW, the adapter makes the stock tach VERY stable and VERY accurate.

Thought so. It has been my experience that most 240 owners that install an aftermarket CDI ignition or a standalone such as the SDS, cannot ever figure out the tach, so they just install a traditional tach. The MSD 8920 ( a $60 part) allows you to use the original tach (BIG STYLE POINTS) while upgrading the ignition system. BTW, most 240 stock tach problems, ie bouncy or reading wrong, will be fixed by using the 8920.

Good job Joe, now get that darn tach adapter wired in and you will be in business. BTW my suggestion is to leave the stock wiring intact and "trace" the tach wire back from the original location. The SDS guy was right in keeping the integrity of the factory load on the inductive loop. Call me if you want a better explanation.

And that would be fine for a stock 260 or 280 tach...thay are triggered by the square wave on the negative side of the coil. The 240 is not triggered this way, it is like an old british car in that it has an inductive loop that FEEDS the positive side of the coil and "reads" the pulses of the draw of the coil, that is why MSD made the 8920, at one point it was marketed toward the british racing crowd.

He is either full of ♥♥♥♥, or does not know what he is talking about, or both. The MSD 8920 is used for current / magnetic triggered tachs. Even the MSD folks get confused as to which tach adapter to use. The SDS has the equivalent of a 9810 in it, it is capablt of low volt or hight volt trigger signals. You need to use the 8920 and install it as we have discussed earlier.

Joe, As I said before, you can get the signal wire from the engine bay and just follow it back, or you can splice into the harness at the tach. On the back of the tach is a solid white wire that goes thru an inductive loop. That is the wire that "fed" the stock coil. You can splice into that and hook it up to the tach adapter, it is a keyed hot. Just make sure it is the only thing you have hooked up to it or you will screw up the inductive signal in it will lead to an erronious tach signal.

Great worl Joe, now find me a R180 LSD while I am in Iraq

OOOH, tough one. Given the curent layout of both tracks, gotta go with Spa. Plus I always enjoyed watching the F-1 race there in the 80's (on ESPN)...seemed like it rained every year. since we jumped to F-1....Mansell or Senna

Auto-X Pirelli or Yokohama

Joe, I made the E-7 list, and have requested a return to the DCA....I am coming buddy. We can get it all sorted out very soon.

MSA 2008

So is this log AFTRER switching to the larger needle valve? If so, the AFR looks much better. You should put 1size larger jet in and then "tune" out the rich spot after 4500rpm with a larger air corrector.

Dude, dont be dense. They are the same, Japanese Bosch L-Jetronic copies.