Dtsnlvrs

SWEET

Yes, That is a 240mm flywheel. The NX2 series will be the one you need http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC08/21-2273 The Thow Out collar you will need is http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SCCB08/21-2123 The clutch kit includes the thow out bearing, the pilot bearing and the alignment tool

Try Ledtronics or Super Bright Leds

Thought this would be appropriate here

I am not a fan of Puck clutches on anythin other than a full on track car. I would look into the ACT NX2-HDSS or the NX2-XTSS. Do you have a 240mm flywheel (the Fidanza) . If you are already using a 240mm flywheel and clutch, all you will need is a new release bearing...but yeas...you need to use the 280 clutch bearing collar, if you dont have one ACT Website

Well, start by dialing that timing back a bit...just from my rough calculations...you have a comp ratio over 9.25:1. Set it for about 30-32 ALL IN by 3000. Get it warm, and set the valve lash...then go back to tuning...I would reccomend you buy a good weber tuning book...the Speedpro series is one "How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors" As far as the carbs closing, you have to run an external return spring...there is no other way around it....Consider it a requirement....both by the DOT, and the SCCA. EVERY application I have seen for DCOE style carbs, both Factory OEM and Aftermarket, used some sort of return spring on the throttle linkage or the shaft. Also, look into changing out the Idle jets to a 50f9...you will have to try out a few different jets...nut the f11 series idles have far too much emulsification for our cars...other than that...your jetting looks ok for starters. Where are you located, and are you getting oxygenated fuels...that can make a HUGE difference in jetting

Why??? the E12-80 is a far superior ignition controller. I think the HEI module should belong on a Chevy. Some Chevy owners may disagree as they dont like them either. I have personally tried going the HEI route...many moons ago...before pertronix...and disliked the results sooo bad, that I went back to points! It would flutter and stumble at high rpm, and was inconsistent all across the board.

Yep, running them on my car right now...Cannon Manifold / Pacesetter Header. If you notice...some of them are cut square as well. It is a "VERY" custom fit. Recomendation from Dave Rebello to use that header instead of the Nissan Comp. It has equal lenght runners, actually fits the car nice, and flows almost as well as the Nissan Comp unit.

Here is what I did...

Dammit, picture dumped...here it is

Forget the HEI module, put the ZX dizzy black box back on, and wire it up like this. Now remember, you have a 240-Z so your 12+ is coming from your tach, so it will hook to the + on the coil and the "B" terminal on the module. Also, make sure you have jumpered accross the ballast resistor...if you just remove it, you will get no voltage to the coil, you must jumper it.

Good job getting them flat, and good luck getting those Dellortos tuned

Well said Tony...I was limited in time to respond, and wanted to gather more info from him.

From the SDS website

Quoted for truth

Tell me a little bit more about your motor (cam, size, head work etc), your trans, and you diff ratio...also tire size. Get rid of the mechanical pump and get a Facet pump....you want around 30gph at 3psi unregulated, use the factory fuel rail, it has an orifice on the return side that will provide the right pressure if you use the facet pump in the link. What ignition are you using? etc...I can probably get you close via the forum, but I would suggest you buy "How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors (Speedpro) (Paperback)"to really get them setup right. I would think with the pinging, you have too much advance and or have a really lean idle curcuit. Oh and you will need to use a helper spring...even in factory applications they had external return springs.

Yeah, that was a very late night as I recall....one of many

Yeah, that thing is toast...you should buy a cannon manifold and send that piece of junk to me . Yeah, you should be able to get it machined level, then file the manifold washers as needed.

Did Mike ever send you the instructions, or did you find a different top hat....I am looking to go the bilstein route with either the biscuit camber plate or the full on one (cant decide yet). I know Mike can get us the proper spacers and nuts for the shafts, but the top hats will be an issue. Just trying to see what I am getting myself into

I am running Ground Control Coilovers with 150lb F / 175lb R spring rates. Tokico HP inserts, shortened strut housings

WDE baby !!!!!

Yes Joe, that was one of many SNAFU's we encountered

Here is a little Video I put together today...call me a Windows Movie Maker NOOB.

I have not noticed any fatigue or damage, but after reading many threads on the subject, I am looking to beef up the mounting points by adding some more metal on both sides, and building a triangle bracket from the firewall lip to the ledge (under the cowl panel). As far as the down bars go, I dont know if they made that big of a difference...I am only running 175lb spings up front...the big advantage was providing a much more stout mounting point for the front sway bar. I am kinda in a pickle 'cause i want a stiffer car, but dont want to install a full cage...I still drive it on the street....so all I have right now is a nice roll bar in the rear, and the PDK up front. I was thinking of having my roll bar modified to allow the install of a door bar that goes from the down bar to the firewall...Johnc, you have seen my roll bar in person, what do you think about that mod?

Holy Crap....I remember visiting that site...back in the V-8 newsletter days