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How silly of me, of course I installed new gaskets and seals as well as new drain and fill plugs. Also installed a new front diff mount, with that and the R/T mount set up as a snubber, it is nice and tight back there.

Well, this whole thing started when I decided to "upgrade" to a 4.11 diff a few years ago. Topic can be found here http://forums.hybrid...80-411-install/ . Now fast forward a few years, and I cannot find a R-180 LSD for less than 1200 bucks. After talking with John Coffey at MSA last year, I knew somthing was gonna be "up" very soon. Either OS Giiken was gonna make a 25 spline LSD or John was gonna manufacture 27 spline Stub axles so that we could use the Subi LSD units. Topic on Subi axles can be found here http://forums.hybrid..._1entry853707 . So I purchased a Torsen LSD for a Subaru STi off Ebay, and ordered a set of John's axles, and patiently waited for the FedEx guy. I will not bore you with the disassembly and reassembly of the diff, but rather, some things of note when doing this, and some cool pictures. If you really want to know how to disassemble a differential....buy a effing service manual! New Torsen Carrier with my 4.11 ring gear and bearings installed Here is where it got real fun...Had to grind off a bit inside the housing to get the Torsen and 4.11 gear to clear Still a very tight fit And she is in Mind you..this is not the prefered method to set backlash After setting the backlash, I buttoned it up, and set it aside, I had more prep work to do before installing my "new" LSD. I had to clean and assemble my CV axles to the new stubs, and install a R/T mount with just a pinion snubber. R/T mount with pinion snubber..notice I kept the fuel line clamp setup..just moved it aft Wolfcreek Racing CV kit mated to Betamotorsports 27 spline R-180 Stub Axles The right way to safety rotating parts Diff installed And thats that. The CV / stub axle slid right into the subi LSD and with a slight bump...were perfectly registered. Bolt up the outer CV to the other adapter, and it is done. Some admin notes though... 1. When installing a Subi Torsen into an exhisting R180..you "may" have to grind on the housing to get it to clear. 2. Do not tighten the front diff mount nut or the two bolts until the aft mount is tight. This will relieve any preload on the mustache bar. 3. Re-use your diffs old bearings unless they are garbage...when installing new ones...you must compute the shimming for the preload...what a PITA 4. R/T mounts are worth their weight in GOLD 5. Red locktight is your best friend Thats it for now...driving impressions once the weatehr clears up.

Is that a Recaro Speed seat I see in the garage?

UMMM, the P-79 and the P-90 have identical combustion chambers

Good job, now get that valve lash set, and enjoy the car

Try posting this question on www.sincityz.org

Makes me want to build a S-30 Rally car....hmmhmmmm

Damn

Contact Ron Iskendarian at ISKY Cams http://www.iskycams.com/ , they can re-grind that factory billet to whatever your heart desires.

Model Year 1973. The 260Z was produced for model year 1974 only (US Market)

Hang on to that heater box and control panel...you, or another HybridZ member may need it someday

Hang on to that heater box and control panel...you, or another HybridZ member may need it someday

I believe ther is a decimal point before that 5, therfore he would be toting 1/2 gallon in the engine bay.

Yok AVS ES100 205/60/15 24.7in dia Yok AVS ES100 225/50/15 24.0 in dia I usually run "up" one speedo cog with the 225/50/15 for example, I had a 3.54 rear and used the speedo cog for a 3.7 rear to calibrate the speedo. These are the cogs YELLOW is the 16 tooth for the 3.36 BLACK is the 17 tooth for the 3.54 BLUE is the 18 tooth for the 3.70 WHITE is the 19 tooth for the 3.90 RED is the 20 tooth for the 4.11 PURPLE is the 21 tooth for the 4.38

Fire the motor up, then take a LOOOONG screwdriver and place the tip of it on each injector housing while placing your ear on the handle....if you hear it clicking (very loud) it is working. Listen to all six injectors, the dead ones will be very noticable. Another thing to try...remove the fuel rail and CLEAN it, i mean really clean it...use pipe cleaners and such (gun brushes work well)....make sure every pasage and opening is clean and free of obstructions. Hope this helps

Ding Ding Ding...and common sense prevails

If you want to keep the stock diameter, go with a 205/60/15

Recieved mine today...WOW they are beautiful. I will begin setting up the diff this weekend...pics to follow

Beautiful

Two things here. 1: what is your goal with the 16x8 in wheels? Do you want to keep them tucked under the factory body work? Are you gonna use flares? etc, etc. 2: is your friend. These questions have all been answered in MANY threads about wheel and tire combo.

...and save the "C" cam...NEVER dispose of a Japan billet...it can always be reground

There is a travel adjustment piece inside the door that ya'll need to adjust. Kinda hard to describe right now (tequilla). Just take off your door panel, and watch the arms move as someone else locks and unlocks the door. Then adjust it as necessary. Trust me, once you open it up, and study it for about....oh two minute, you will see what I am talking about.

The one on the left is either a PK machine gun (some variant), or a Chinese Typre 67. The one on the right is not a M-240, but rather its precursor...the FN MAG-58. Oh, and they dont fire the same ammo. The PK fires 7.62 x 54...the Mag fire 7.62 x 51...yet it looks like they are both carrying 7.62 x 51 belts

You mean like this:

Oh, it was around $250. I could have gotten more, but that was during a time when I was just unloading parts (wife was not working) so I would list stuff with a guesstimated buy it now. Stupid me, I let a Datsun Comp rally clock go for $250, Buy it now was activated within 5min of the auction start.