Dtsnlvrs

If you notice, later in that thread..Carl Beck pointed out what the underlying cause was...the door lock / latch itself. Now if it is a full resto // very nice car you are working on....mod the exhisting strikers, then save the coin for new strikers, locks mechanisms, dovetails the works..

Dead Hooker

You mention that it has been sitting awhile, how long? I would go through it...new rings, bearings etc. To give you an idea...I rebuilt my block in 2004, and it has seen maybe 10k miles on it. I am about to send my head to be ported, right before i go to Iraq for a year. Now I am pretty sure that if I fill the cylinders with a good thick weight oil it will probably be fine when I return...but I aint gonna take that chance. During my deployment I will source NEW 1mm over pistons, rings, bearings, etc so that when I return....all I have to do is get the block machined, rods prepped, get everything balanced, and then throw on my newly refreshed head. What I am trying to say is, at i minimum...check the bores (dia, gouging, etc) Ball hone, and throw some new rings and bearings in it. Nothing sucks more than putting a head on a supposedly "good" short block, only to have it smoke like a cheap Havana Tampa cigar

Actually, those are 70-76 Door Lock Strikers. However, IMHO, I would bet that it is your Door Locks are what need to be replaced http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC1B04H/30-7421

Lawnmower Thottle Cable

I think we ALL should do just that

http://www.upgrademotoring.com/wheels/volk_racing/te37v.htm

Only if you put the number "1" on it and wear an Ayrton Senna helmet

Well, I will be rocking a set of Volks on the track....I was looking at a set of 16x8 Rotas for the street and using my Pansports for the track, think I will keep my Panasports on the street and use the FORGED Volk on the track

Yes, Yes they will

Yeah, we discussed it quite a bit, and have determined that the 1.75's "the book" recomends is way too small....every car with similar single cylinder displacement to our Z's that weber put DCOE's on had 2.00 needle valves . I would venture to say, that someone with a 3.1L and any kinda cam should be using 2.25's

I stand corrected....my memory is getting to me these days.......all the factory Z manifolds ARE the same thickness...the issue we had was with the Datsun Comp headers on the 510...they used the typical, albiet wrong, 10mm flange. FWIW Pacesetter, Stahl, and Clifford all use / used the 10mm flange, and called it thick. The 6-1 Header that MSA and AZ-Zcar sells is the correct thickness, but is a shitty header imho...it does not fit the car well unless you have old worn out engine and trans mount bushings...if it is all new, the collector is in perfect alignment to the trans mount crossmember . the ground washers are a compromise....plus, I can buy the Jet Hot Coated Pacesetter direct from Jet Hot for less than au uncoated Nissan Comp header (which scrape the ground easily).

Any update on this....I am fast running out of stock cams to send to Ron for re-grinding

Well, the handy calculator program carb thingy says....130mains, 180 airs, and a 50/7850.2 idle....I would compare that to what the speedpro book says for lean / rich in the idle emulsion and go fro there.....I dont know the delorto numbering system off the top of my head....but you should be "close" with what you have....at least close enough to get it running and on a dyno

Awesome job, now get that thing on a dyno and really dial it in

Make sure all your vacuum port plugs are TIGHT...the 6 grey ones and the blue one...use zip ties if you have to

YES, get a wideband...that will give you an idea of where to go jet wise when you get it on a dyno....what is the octane rating of the fuel you get on base? Look to building a collection of jets...I would recommend original weber peices not the asian knock-offs...I buy mine from a guy in Italy on ebay ALFA1750'S CARBURETORS PARTS STORE.

Post a picture of the carbs...I am curious as to which Dellortos you have...do you have the Speedpro Book "How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors". if not I would suggest you get it. Are you trying to pull vacuum off of some port for your dizzy? I would recomend against it...just plug all the vacuum ports...but do get the tuning book, very usefull.....but remember...fuel quality has changed dramatically since these books were written

You really need to study the Factory Service Manual, or another good source for the wiring diagram before you continue any further....I do not know what you connected to what, but i do know that the factory tach was in inductive loop type, which supplied the hot to the positive side of the coil, instead of reading the neg side. Get a copy of the FSM search around here, I know it is linked somwhere.

Those are beautiful.....too bad they will be hidden behind my CV axle kit

Well, guess I wont be buying a Fidanza

I wanna see pictures of the scoops you made for the airdam

Stay safe, and when you need an Evac...give a call...will be there in a Jiffy

Dont know the thickness off the top of my head, but it is the same thickness as the factory 280z manifold....I have been grinding theese washers down for z-cars for years...either to mate up a Carb intake with an FI header or a FI intake with a carb header...the key is to get the washer to lay flat against both surfaces to avoid the manifold studs from bending and warping from the pressure and heat.