1 tuff z

pm'd...

as is mine...

that shifter is from an 81-83 zx na 5 speed. if i understand correctly your goal is to cut the top off another z shift lever and weld it to what you have? if so, you can get a shift lever from any z,72-83 to use for your cut and splice/weld, as well as the straight 6 maxima sedan. thread pitch is 8x1.25mm. my suggestion would be to cut your [pictured] shift lever just above the bulbous part and weld the donor to that spot, thus keeping your weld hidden below the shift boot. if you weren't concerned with originality you could simply source a donor shift lever and knob from another nissan 5spd with same shift pattern-like a 300zx, local jy perfect for this

for your return you could remove the stock return line, drill a hole and use a bulkhead 'an' fitting [if your hands aren't too big to reach a wrench to the inside nut to tighten], then it just 'dumps' into the tank. for the feed consider a steel an fitting and welding it to the stock feed line [obviously, tank empty of both fuel and vapors]. i purchased all my 'an' fittings from earls in cali.

there is one now on yahoo japan auctions. true dual from the downpipe all the way to the rear muffler. looks like polished ss or chrome, pretty sweet. links http://page14.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s117916149 http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k119899493 http://page19.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/x103340075 http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m69665801 enjoy.

i have an underdrive pulley on mine as i felt it too close for comfort to the steering rack. i'll try to remember to post a pic.

you think correctly, ccw's

he is the Z madman!

both

i've been to zmecca many times during vacation visits to florida. jimbo is a great guy, drives all the z's in his air conditioned 'barn' as well. good to see that he is taking good care of my fairlady!

derek, we don't run until 9pm...

this is one of my friend dave's websites. he is very knowledgeable regarding home theater, shoot him an email. http://www.hometheatercruise.com/event-contacts.php [dave bott, under 'your cruise hosts']

pete, mounted the gm ecu sitting vertically, between the outboard side of the glovebox. here is a pic-shows the bottom of it but you'll get the idea. out of the way of kicking feet, etc. i ran the aldl port into the glovebox for easy access. the round thing. left side of the pic is the fan housing. pete, that new engine sure is purty!

i would be in for fg, as long as the pricepoint is decent.

better than bringing up turkey dinner... i find my meals are best enjoyed just once.

sounds to me like the azc bar works only for the later or series II 240z model and up as the early or series I 240z diff was located futher forward. the later models they moved it rearward to correct the angles it put on the halfshafts. i know evilc ran into a problem with the ttt front mount on his series I z and had to modify it to work.

i received this email from paypal today... Hello david, Please do not reply to this email. This mailbox is not monitored and we are not able to respond to inquiries sent to this e-mail address. We recently changed our pricing so that all PayPal customers can receive money from friends and family within the US for free. PayPal merchants receiving money as payment for a purchase continue to incur fees. We’re not sure if you are aware of this, but we noticed that some of your customers are sending you personal payments for purchases. Unfortunately, this violates our rules and we need your help correcting this. Please don’t ask or allow your customers to use personal payments for their purchases. If we continue to see such activity after Dec. 2, 2009, we may have to disable your ability to receive personal payments and then you will pay fees for all money received through PayPal. You can find more information about payment types and fees in sections 4.2 and 8 of our User Agreement – just click “Legal Agreements†at the bottom of any PayPal page. If you have any questions, concerns, or think we may have made a mistake, please contact us at http://www.paypal.com/contactus. Thank you for helping us resolve this matter. Sincerely, PayPal

mark, how did you determine how thick to make the extension?

thanks

my axle stops are "drilled" but not the same. i'll check later and post. think one inbd and the other otbd are 'drilled'. right inbd, left otbd are both effected or drilled, slightly less for the left inbd.

have both, not pictured [purch from mml]

jc, what springs are you running now?

in august i installed techno toy tuning rear lower control arms, removing my arizona z car lca's. prior to heading to the alignment shop i had [what i thought] was a good idea. as my upper strut towers are slotted, i moved my struts outboard and, when they dialed in the neg camber i requested i could still add neg camber when at the track if needed by simply moving the struts inboard via my slotted towers. main reason for purchase of the ttt lca's was complete on car adjustability. from the limited driving i did they seemed to work great. the shop that does my alignments performs mainly track prep for bimmers and p-cars, some are track only. the guy that does the work is a long time race crew chief and commented on how much he liked the lca's for both their construction and ease of adjustability. my idea to allow trackside camber adjustment is/was flawed. driving around town and over 100 miles before i hit the track, including a few glorious burnouts i experienced zero problems. 2nd lap at watkins glen, car is warm and i step into it coming through the esses that lead to the back straight. pop, grind, grind then both speedo and tach rise but i'm not going faster. great, i'm thinking i just blew the q45 diff, 1st session of a 3 day event. limp back to the garage bay and disover the diff is fine but left axle is suspect. i pull the axle and find the cv balls in the boot. pull the axle apart and find the carrier for the balls is fractured [later breaks] and i figure it's fatigue and source another from a local jy. that night get it fixed, 1st lap 2nd day, pop-same thing but the other side. fix the right axle, think it happened due to my brainchild idea for camber adjustment which actually widened the track. so, to fix it and be able to drive home i pull the upper struts inboard fully then pull inboard the lca's as well [nearly zero camber now but driveable]. this time the inner retaining ring got bent and nearly gave way. both times it seems as thought the axle was extended too far. fast forward, today i [finally] get the axles out and pull apart the left side. check it all over, looks ok. measure both compressed and extended lengths. i get ~13.25" comp, 16.1 ext. then i remove the spring from my coilover to run the suspension thru it's travel. ~13.5" from full droop to full comp. questions to the braintrustees here. does my rationale for failure seem accurate? anyone know the servicable lengths for the q45 mod axles [mine are from modern motorsports]? ideas? pic of my damage. clockwise, broken cage and damaged spyder as well as dinged balls [ouch], damaged end cup, good end cup, good retainer ring, bent ring.