Careless

I hope the transmission serves you well! You say that it can use the stock L28 drive-shaft too? I'm using an S14 rear sub-frame, so I'd have to see if it would still line up, but... here's to hoping that it works out! *high 5* I'd bet there's a 20 - 50 lbs weight savings on the RB20 transmission as well. I might just opt out and go for that then, since I'm sure they're cheap as hell too are the clutch and flywheel the same though? hmmm.. EDIT: looks like RB20's use the same flywheel and clutch as the RB25, seeing as the JGY parts are compatible on both transmission/engine combos. looks like RB20 transmission for me. Just saved me 600 dollars. And the worst part is... now I can't decide what to spend it on. Actually, i'll just buy the clutch and flywheel with that cash. Getting a complete transmission package for the price of a transmission that is more powerful than I really need- without clutch and flywheel is a better way of doing it the first time around in this case.

Those would be high-dollar items, and I'm willing to bet you can find a parts dealer or car importer who can get those for you. Have you tried Ebay? I know there's a company who sells this stuff on ebay... it stars with a J (JnR i think?) One headlight would be more than the entire list of items I'm ordering for myself. If you need things like bolts and plugs and dowels or just small hard to find items that aren't expensive, but would make life easier... that's what I can get. I'm willing to bet that the price of a R32 GTR front fender from Nissan will be the same price as two from an importer. I'll write it down and ask him for the price, but I don't think I'll order it. But I'll call to see what answers I get for that item.

sounds like theres a draw somewhere, or perhaps the belt is slipping? try using the datsun pulley before you return it. if it doesn't work then yah, just return it, and get one that is the same clock-mount and see if the 100 amp version will make any changes.

oh come onnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

I will bet you 100% that she's only doing it cause she's hot, her friends hot, and that gets YOUR attention, as well as everyone else who thinks they're both hot. And plus, she can't get criticized for fooling around with another good looking person. And she gets praised by straight women who are into the whole "I want a husband, and kids" as well as the "We can survive without men" mentality. I'll put money down. LOL Speaking of batting for the other team, the Toronto Bluejays hit a grand slam when I was at the game the other day. Not bad for being the first time back in the stadium after about 12 years.

I'm sure you can pull similar numbers from a slightly modded RB25. Go for it (prepping the RB25 with price of engine included would end up being same as RB26 in stock form at some engine outfitters)

how much weight is saved with the RB20 transmission in comparison to the RB25 FS530RA transmission? Does anyone have the gear ratios of the RB20, and are they shorter? I Tried googling for a short while here at work, and I couldn't get anything. I think since the RB30 can handle 400 hp from ZUL8R's car, it should do well on the NA-RB30, and if it's got shorter gearing I think i'll make use of them, since they're way cheaper. Problem would be clutch/flywheel, no? Or just clutch? Found!: Gear Ratios 1 3.321 2 1.902 3 1.308 4 1.000 5 0.759 Reverse 3.636 No designation of whether it's a FS5W71B or C, but I think all RB20's are B's More info: Fluid Capacity (recommended lubricant): FS5W71C 5-speed Transmission: 4.25 qts (API GL-4, SAE 75W-90) Gearing: 1st-3.985 2nd-2.246 3rd-1.415 4th-1.000 5th-0.821 Reverse-3.657 Nissan recommends 90W GL-4 gear oil for this transmission. GL-5 gear oils which are required in hypoid differentials are not used in most synchromesh transmissions. The chemicals used in the GL-5 oil that provides the extreme pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers, which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically, the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half.

here's a good website for PowerFC information that I found a while back. Probably THE most informative yet, even moreso than Apex'i themselves. Go Figure. http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm Also, if you want to run anything other than the PowerFC MAP sensor, you'll have to go with a D-Jetro edition, rather then L-Jetro (standard). Now that they're discontinued, D-Jetro is even harder to find, since people go with the MAP sensor tune most of the time.

But isn't that directly related to the fact that the added stiffness will allow your car to refrain from turning into a pretzel if it hits a small tree? unless i'm missing another quality that welds provide in the case of an equal-damage accident...?

rather go standalone.

k, so since this engine is pretty much done, can you start working on putting two L BLOCKS together now? with 6 KA heads? Or just make me a fire breathing dragon or something Great stuff man!

lol i was only kiddinig. im not sure if thats how the server works

I have a set of skyline parts that I'm picking up (the list of stuff that I will be categorizing and taking pictures of, so you guys can freshen up your blocks). I've ordered a set of fairly cheap parts for another member here, and I'll gladly do the same for anyone else if they can let me know what they want by Friday before 5pm, Eastern Time. Nothing overly expensive, please, as I'm using my credit card to buy it. Note: These are special order items, and I'd like to deal with only people who KNOW that they want these parts, and aren't shopping around for them elsewhere while they're on order. They take 2 to 4 weeks for delivery, so if you can wait, I can order them. But no seriously expensive stuff, please. I can't afford to be burned on parts that are not specific to my build. Chances are you guys would be buying parts that are of no use to me anyways. I don't want to dig myself into debt, you know how it is. So PM me if you need something from Japan Nissan at net price, and I'll see what I can do. (btw, net pricing is between cost and list pricing. cost being the dealerships stock purchasing price, and list being the price that the average joe will acquire the items for). Things like oil pumps and n1 gear are cheaper from Nismoparts.com, so get'm there if you really want them. But small parts that are not listed, I can get. other stuff, please go online. I may extend my offer to Monday 5pm depending on how quickly I can find parts numbers for you (if need be) through the FAST system, and how quickly we communicate. Just showing some appreciation for everyone elses hard work at keeping this site on the top of my bookmarks list

No prob! So is there the option of running AFR and VE, or is it just injector time.

Well. A Louisville slugger is a good substitute for money. Baleeee'dat! Just keep an eye out for illegal activity, or warn your neighbors. And most importantly, find out where that DSM is usually hangin'.

OK, I just read through this, and it's pretty informative. Question, I may have time on Sunday to put together an instruction PDF with steps and images. Do you want to take some high quality shots and send them to my Email? PM me if you do. It's something we should start doing for all of our Tech Guides, so that they are on file, should the database crash one day. (believe me, it does happen!)

FIERCE! *ahem* back to the thread topic would it make sense to just remake an entire harness rather than use the plugin that Wolf has for the RB26? I mean using their standard plug in harness and rewiring most of the connectors and whatnot? That would sure as hell make it easier to route wires too, no? And I'd learn where every single wire is too =/ I'm not sure what I should do. Test the motor with the harness and then tear it down, or what.

Someone forgot to mention how similar to the Wolf V500 Ron Tyler's new logo looks.

Brian is excellent to do business with too, so jump on it if you can, Manny!

man... mull. despite the bad rust issues, those guys did an amazing job with the blasting! tell them to come to Canada, and i'll buy the sand! They can take the rest home if they'd like!

LOL. pulp fiction at it's finest. That's my favourite part of the movie! hahahah as for the blood. seek the help of a private investigator if it ends up being worth the price and you want pay back. some guys will do it for cheap cheap cheap!

First pic looks like the headers are going to have clearance issues with the steering rack, but it seems like it will turn out ok. What kind of balancer/harm.dampner is that on there? noice!

Manny, don't break the RB20 boxes. you'll end up exceeding the budget shortly. That's not "fun car"!

The first questions are answered once you find the correct answer for the last question. Ideally, if the head stud is not more than a millimeter larger than the current studs, then you would drill the holes out to the larger size, and then rethread the existing pattern with the new size... keeping the same pitch. (that's what you're supposed to do with an RB30 + 26 head, since the bolt sizes only differ by .5 mm on opposite ends of the stud threads). If you can find out what studs they are, then the rest would come pretty easy, I'd think.

1 fast z. Im just curious why you decided to put the first line of text on the bottom of the valve cover, rather than the top. it reads: By Blake Machine Pheonix Arizona DOHC 24 Valve Twin Turbo would'nt this make more sense: DOHC 24 Valve Twin Turbo By Blake Machine Pheonix Arizona I actually like the shape of the valve cover though. It fits in with the style of the z car of the 70's