Careless

how did you find the rust bullet holding up? I got a can of it in my house, and I'm thinking of using it in as many areas as possible for my build before laying down a bed liner of any sort.

A lot of ppl have been asking me for these parts, and i've found them on ebay for a little cheaper than total price of what I get em for, and they're closer to you guys, so take a look: http://cgi.ebay.ca/NISSAN-FUEL-INJECTOR-O-RING-SEALS-240SX-SKYLINE-RB25DET_W0QQitemZ200159369446QQihZ010QQcategoryZ33553QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem For those of you that ordered from me, please don't go ordering from this guy. I may not be able to use your injector o-rings for my build. LOL.

Hey guys, For anyone that is looking to replace the stock intake manifold unit for a custom job, and has access to a proper welder, I've stumbled across these kits. http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-Intake-manifold-KIT-RB25-RB20-skyline-gtr-rb26_W0QQitemZ300158678936QQihZ020QQcategoryZ36474QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Not sure if it's worth the price, but I can't imagine finding that same shape for a plenum to be any cheaper if someone were to make it for you. Looks pretty good for the price. the bellmouths on runners could be better, but the base plate looks like it has enough overlap to be cut to a proper size. Just thought i'd bring it to your attention in case someone wants a DIY thing, but doesnt want to spend as much as the Greddy or Trust manifolds, or perhaps even the knock off brands. The only thing it looks like it's really missing is the bolt flange for each runner, as well as the additional tube length that they would be fastened to. Raff

Do any of these work with the RB25 or RB20 transmission?

Rick, I'm going to say I actually liked your previous fender flares better but your car is still amazing, and one of my favs. rock on! Raff

heck, Eric, You and I should team up and design a template theme for hybridz over the next couple of months. Give this site a bit more classic character like the car itself.

not sure why you'd change from a screen-mode RGB to a print-separations CMYK colour mode. Is there something that you can't do with RGB that you can with CMYK? because if anything, you lose the chance of modifying your image using certain filters. Not that the custom filters in photoshop are really good anyways, but they're still useful in some cases.

Same here, lets doooooo it!

Hi dudes, and dudettes. In my efforts to find some information on port molds as an alternative to expensive CAD and 3D rendering methods to which I have no access to, I've come across some interesting websites that will make you feel better about doing this on your own if you decide to do some home porting. http://www.diyporting.com/molds.html TAP Products makes these products here: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=61& and instructions on using them are located here: http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/Moldmaking%20Directions.pdf http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/12/MakingMolds/index.php Lets post some more information on port molding, specifically, if you have come across and bookmarked any. I know it's often too much to ask of L or RB head experts to post what they do to their ports to achieve certain goals, but anyone else who has discovered some things worth mentioning for either engine while doing basic home porting should post here if they don't consider their findings top-secret and would like to contribute their tips and strategies to n00bies like myself. I find that most engine builders in my area are not really reknown for head-porting, and are all hand port specialists, and use no flow-benches or just assume their modifications are better rather than worse for just about any application. So from now, until the time my head makes it here from Japan, I'm going to be researching the topic of home porting, and possibly practice on one of the junk honda heads I have laying around in my room-mates backyard from the scrap engines we've collected. Just to get a feel for the tool and port shaping =). lets port! Raff

My friends 944 S2 is somewhat the same. Except the heat that comes in to his cabin is so dry that it actually feels like you're in a warmer climate without all the humidity and it feels REALLY nice. No sweating or muggy feeling. quite weird actually. I'd have it on all the time if mine were anything like that.

I think the car looks nice. The engine bay looks especially well detailed. However, I wouldn't offer more than 15k for the car if I was seriously in love with it, which I am definately not.

im up-to about 25 lbs in bondo dust and paint chippings.

how the hell did you get z32 drivetrain parts for 72 bucks? lol wtf.

TB48DE is my next build if i can get one here, now that you mention the patrol. get the 5.2 litre kit and i'll have quite a mean engine on my hands. hehehe. Is it possible to get any more information about these engines that you know of at all? I know someone with a RB25/30 made only 210 whp, but it was using a piggy back system, not a dedicated EFI.

hehe, i knew you were form NZ, just stating that we have a parts contact now =) so there are a lot of DE'd RB30's floating around? My thought was that everyone just goes straight to turbo cause they don't want to spend the money on the high compression parts due to less room for upgrades down the line (ie. turbo)

that feeler guage trick is cool. they can be had for pretty cheap too, and it would save you from buying all sorts of lash pads

Ok, so I ordered the Calico Coatings CT-1 sprayed on the .0001 extra oil clearance ACL bearings. Total price = 250 dollars for Rod and Main bearings. I found regular ACL bearings on ebay for roughly 150 for the set, but I'm going to go with the coated bearings this time around. Shipping using the "Saturday Delivery" from UPS was free. So considering that I would have paid anywhere from 50+ for shipping from UPS on ebay, I think 250 ain't so bad. It's either 200 without or 250 with coatings. =) now if my Gregory's manual would come... *shakes fist* EDIT: ANNNND i bought their 8 dollar Calico Coatings All American Challenge Sports Cap, too. heheheh =) Hey for 8 bucks, I think it's time to replace my current cap. it's way past its time. Maybe I should order CT-1 coating on the hat too, so it lasts longer and is less prone to "wear"...

Good stuff So now we got two contacts for RB parts on this board for harder to find things. I'm here in Canada, and you're there in NZ. Thanks for the heads up

GREAT NEWS INDEED! lol. those guys always make me laugh.

go and git some pics!

Nice, I'll be making one of these and putting them in an ALU box this weekend and polishing it

S'what me likes to hear! Chances are he makes anywhere from 15 - 20% more power than I would considering he had a way higher budget, and high compression at that too considering it's a track car. Or does it run on pump gas? still 400 - 20% = 320 hp, which is in line with what I want to achieve.

hey Fellaz. Maybe someone with RB specific experience will chime in here, or someone might post some RB30 specific info, even better! I'm looking for some bearing selection help. I'm going with CalicoCoatings CT-1 on a set of ACL RACE Series Bearings. Here's the spec sheet (see attached) Problem here is the "X" series bearing. It has an additional .001 of oil clearance. Is this to allow more oil to seep between the bearings, or is this to aid in making up clearance issues where they fall short? I don't have the pages from the FSM for the bearing clearances or the crank snout stampings, and Gregories hasn't shipped my book over, as far as I know (not sure whats going on with them, it's been 3 weeks). Heck I don't even know if that's in the book. So who knows? I suppose that since it's additional clearance, it would be used to increase the ability of the crank to spin up freely with more oil, rather than tighten it up more. I'm just wondering if it's at all worth it, and whether it's a preference related option, rather than a tolerance related one (seeing as the bearings come oversized as well, but that's for cranks that need machining or fall short, right?) Might use plastiguage to do my bearing readings, unless I can find a nice set of Mics. (any leads?). I figure that since the dude doing the machining does his using plastigauge, I might as well go at it myself when I get my ARP Mains (apparently you're supposed to check clearances with the hardware you're gonna use, even if it's just a fastener, which is understandable) Thanks gents.

using the N1 water pump is your first problem. try the standard RB26DETT or RB25DET pump, and you will see your temps drop in traffic. unless you're on a really long track day, or endurance race, the N1 pump is detrimental to keeping temps streetable. You'll be on the ragged edge more times on the street with an N1 pump, in comparison to the times that you'd be on the ragged edge with a standard pump on a track. N1 pumps/flows less to adjust for high-rpm driving, so it doesn't over-pump or pressurize the system too much. The water flows substantially less with the N1 at lower rpm so that at high rpm, the water is flowing what it would be at about 3000 to 4000 rpm with a standard pump. This gives the water time to pull away heat at high rpm. In traffic it's moving too slowly to do anything with N1. And if you had a standard pump at high rpm, it'd move so quickly that it wouldn't sit in the rad long enough to cool itself down. If you're streeting more than tracking, go RB26DETT. The pump is only 89 dollars USD. Try it and see how it goes for you. If it doesnt lower temps...hey, you got a backup pump now, anyways. Always a good thing. Heck, take the pump and a small tube of the red sealant that nissan supplies with you in your tool box, and in the event that the water pump cavitates or spins freely, you can at least swap it over and drive home with a 12mm socket and a screw driver if you got small hands. HINT: Towing home cost more than a water pump in most cases, and they're common to go on RB's from what I hear. Less frequent than the oil pump, but you still common.

that looks like a pretty tight unit! I like it I'm curious to know how much the output between your and my engine will differ. This is getting fun