Careless

If it's worth anything to you guys, unless you're always running at red-line or close to it, or in an endurance race, you're probably better off getting the OEM pump rather than the N1, as the N1 is made to pump slower because the engine is always at higher RPM. This could help some water temps in stop and go traffic, but I don't think you'd see much of that, stony

perfect!

HAHAHHA, there was an episode of dog the bounty hunter where he said... and I quote...

I tried to find those first ones i posted in -20, but to no avail especially since they're purpose built.

Quentin is running larger comp. wheels and slight mods to the R33 gtr turbos (or R34, can't remember), and it's made him in excess of 500hp

oh, hahah. yeah. can't believe i missed the sx. either way, I'm willing to bet you're going to have to make mounts anyways. unless you've already read otherwise?

i know exactly what you're looking for. it's the cross-member which holds the engine mounts. What I'm saying is that you would need suspension links from either an S13/S14 or R32 to bolt upto that front cross-member. Since you found the cross member, you may be able to get adjustable s13 or s14 links for the price of the OEM or NISMO ones, which are good but not adjustable to any extent. they're either good, or better, but not best.

well if you found the cross member for 50 bucks, that's good. I'd get it. If it has the power steering rack with the short lines on it too, BETTER! I got an entire front clip for 40 bucks that came with everything that was going to be tossed out. Now what you can do is use s13 or 14 parts on the cross member, since they're easier and cheaper. See if you can get aluminum hubs too, that way it's lighter

well you could save time and on price inflation of the skyline parts if you just make motor mounts, no? but if it's a need-to-have, then hit up some skyline boards, you'll find them for sure.

good stuff you guys use 4 inch locking castors and they don't move about? I think everyone think's i'm making the most badass and heavy work bench here. It's going to take some abuse, but I don't need to overbuild it TOO much.

sounds like a lot of back and forth for something that is already available in performance trim. Ross makes an L6 balancer and I think ATI has or is making one. To get everything machined and pressed and checked, I wouldn't even begin to pretend that I know how much it will be, because you can get gouged on the price, people will not touch it, or you have a buddy that can do it for a good price or free, so it varies.

I think they are OEM turbos that are to go to HKS,but instead are fitted with HKS replacement accessories. Probably bought bare from Garrett for nengun to save cash.

I was toying with the idea of hinged castor plates, and when it needs to be moved, we could jack up the sides, flip the feet in, lock them with a pin, and roll it out of the way, with locking, if it's to be moved within a short period of time. lift and flip seems like the best idea so far. I'd probably consider connecting the two hinged castors at the plate, so that they're easily flippable at the same time. that seems like the best idea so far. What do you guys think about threaded pipe for the adjustable feet? sort of like coil over spring perches. That would make it really easy to adjust. I'd just weld in a small handle so it's easy to turn. A little bit of antiseize, and some rubber feet, and I think it would work out well. I just need to find two compatible pipe sizes. so heres my list so far. 1) fliping castor feet 2) adjustable threaded legs 3) locking castors for temporary positioning 4) two separate steel plates on top -----a) two plates will be blanks with various holes for mounting transmissions in an easily workable position (or various other large components with protruding driveshafts or whatever. ----- third plate will be a plate that is made to hold my portable table saw, so that I can mount it within the work table and make cutting long boards easier. 5) drill press on one side 6) overhanging clamp, or vice on the other side 7) storage chests with ball bearing drawers (i think i have some tracks laying around, actually) 8) drip rail with slip-fit wire mesh filter to catch bolts and such, before final drain. 9) rubbermaid bins for storing tools or parts while i dismantle 10) provisions for extending arm magnifying glass/lights. 11) power bars for power tools 12) knee-wells for comfy sitting. perhaps I will include a second level of desk area underneath, that slides out to reveal my engine head and such, so that it's not laying around out in the open. maybe with some small trays to hold various things (valves, seals, cams, etc etc.) that would only have to support about 75 lbs or so. I think I'm liking the outcome here, gents. You guys have some really great ideas and experience in this. This will be my second major welding project. my first was a water heater tank that weighs 700+ lbs when full, and it was made out of a bedframe. It's been subject to people standing and hammering and working around it and ontop of it WITH the water tank, as well as a stress test with 4 x 180lbs people standing on it. This new project is going to be quite fun =)

I know this is somewhat off topic, but is there even a car market in Finland? I mean... 194 horsepower? a 2007 Civic Si has about that much... where's the room for tuning and upgrading?

everything good?

Well, I was in the market for an S14 cross member, I was told that all the R32 and S13/14 chassis front suspension bolts in with little if any modification. The only thing being the engine mounts to have it properly set. I have an S14 cross member with power steering in the garage ( as well as the entire front clip with the rails) to adapt to my car when I get the ball rolling. I also have the rear subframe complete, sans diff and casing. makes for easy suspension selection when the time comes. LOL

uh oh, Phil... now you've done it. There's a trace-route on your ip and people are acquiring your locale. expect a fan site on "dream interpretation, staring big uncle phil" as well as a catalog of where you've been seen and who's "seen you" and how it's changed them.

found these, they're built for the purpose, but probably little small. http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=196,52,363_4418&action=product as well as this brand that is not built for cars but they have welded inline mesh filters. http://ejayfiltration.com/msan-fitting.html Not sure if you'd want to put that for a radiator return though, sometimes it's easy to tell what's wrong with the car if you look in the radiator and check out what's floatin around in there. I'd say gasket bits and such, but I assume you're running metal headgasket, right?

will an S chassis one work? they're usually cheaper and easier to come by. Check out Canada GTR, there are tons on that site, even though it's not in the same country.

Pop. It's not my garage, so it HAS to move from time to time, as well as the fact that I have no wall to keep it up against, so it's going to be dead smack in the middle of the garage, or atleast where the second car would go. the first spot is occupied by some rust, and somewhere under that rust is a Z waiting to have its rear quarters replaced. So in order to have room to make it happen, it has to be movable to a certain degree. Locking castors is where it's at. perhaps only on one side, so that I would be able to lift one side with a dolly and push it. Spill beer? locking castors and a lot of weight will help to some degree. Maybe I'll put a separate drip tray on the other end that I can squeegee my beer into and recycle into my belly refinery at a later date LOL. albeit with added taste and texture.

bigphil isn't posting so that he may thwart any potential IP Address tracing from screaming and yelling (and dreaming, apparently) fans on HybridZ. lololol

I think the local princess auto carries a set of heavy duty locking casters, so I'll look there first. I think I've seen some fairly well built ones for about 18 bucks a piece, that support about 8000 lbs.

HKS uses garrett turbochargers. Perhaps with slight modifications.

use www.xe.com 452 dollars, US. 477 dollars, CAD. here are the various styles, as well: http://www.bestmufflers.com/Xforce_Exhaust_Systems/mufflers.htm#varex The last one on the page has a video of the exhaust on an R34, and i think that's the only xForce varex on the site, the rest are just xForce brand. Looks to be a nissan power window motor that has been insulated a little bit within that box, and attached to a butterfly valve. I wouldn't buy one, doesn't seem worth the price.

I think i'm going to use my powerwasher/blaster after it's done to get it all cleaned and i'll phosphoric acid bath the thing too so it resists rust