Careless

hahahhahahhahahhahahahahhaahhahahhahhahaha ... .... AAAAAAAAhhhhhahahahahahahahahahah

well, google adsense works by measuring how many times your IP address has been on other sites that are using Google adsense, and takes note of their content. So if you guys are seeing those pop ups......... LOL

then it's not even the bov itself. it's the flange. LOL. the bov could be in perfect working order, then.

For what it's worth, Exvitermini's GT-700 doesnt run wastegates. Not running a BOV is something I know nothing about. Couldn't see why someone who makes "big boy" boost couldn't be able to sign a "big boy" cheque and fork out for a BOV that was perhaps designed and used in a professional race series, such as Indy from the 80's? I'm sure those BOV's, if any, are engineered precisely enough to handle lap after lap. heck, with 75 HP per cubic inch, and a lot of pressure to back that up, I'm sure there's a BOV that can take anything we have to throw at it in that neck of the woods. Besides, had he been realistic in his comments, he would have known that your car isn't exactly the fastest and end-all or be-all of RB's, so a BOV is something I wouldn't just throw in the trash. It makes sense in your application.

lol. nice. and all this talk about RB26 only supporting 600 hp before ♥♥♥♥ gets hairy. guess again!

gah-dang!

...

i like how you followed the shape of the vent, rather than cut a square hole in there. Have you considered painting the wire blue or even black? EDIT: actually i like the current colour

Sounds Like a bad mutha, though. Can't wait to hear ITB on 26 head Not sure why they used the RB20 head, as it's made for a smaller displacement engine, so they'd have to do mad port work. Although I have seen the site where they did the work, and it looks like they spent quite some time on it. But as you can see, the car doesnt perform as it should. Perhaps the carbs were just tuned for a higher altitude or colder weather. perhaps their shop is operated out of the mountain tops, and not the low-level cities near the track? I unno :-/

I've ordered the Gregory's Manual for the RB30, which is like a Haynes, infact from the same publishing company. However, there are several sites that sell the Vol. 6 of the Holden Factory Service Manual. Here's a link to one of them. Shipping was 50 bucks :-/ so i went with good o'l greg instead. THere's a Max Ellery, which is better for more chassis stuff too, but I heard it's got some incorrect torque values for the RB30. http://www.pitstop.net.au/view/products/page/query/plu/6050/ That's the factory manual that covers the turbo engine and components. Here's the Haynes and Gregory's (bottom of page): http://www.haynes.com.au/category98_1.htm

ahh yes, you're right, I knew about the RD28, but I couldn't remember if it was the one in that list. I made that post at work without the program to reference too. The TommyKaira edition was apparently made by R31House. I don't think it made 240ps, or perhaps R31 House fiddled with a good thing and screwed it up. Or maybe altitude had something to do with it. Here's what I mean:

So have you changed anything within the block, or are you stating that the casting of the block has been left unchanged?

Bummer. Those part numbers didn't cross with anything in the Japanese or American FAST system. Must be an AUS only part. Since the R31 from Japan didn't have an RB30 either (or atleast it doesnt come up in the Jap FAST system I have) However, there is an RB28... Hey garvice, you got a price, Mate?

LoL. fine fine, I'll pick up the tab when I take a trip down there. HEEEEEEY.... your sig-space is missing something ....

P.S - I love this forum and the extents you guys go to. It really makes being part of the datsun community a worthwhile investment. Give yourselves a pat on the back, please. And have a beer (just one) on me. Send me the bill too.

Thank you, Garvice. Sorry to anyone who saw my post and thought I was a whiner. I just don't understand what the point of a forum is if you're not going to help people out who have exhausted their resources. To me it seems like a boisterous act, or a gloat-fest if anything. LOOK AT MY RB! ITS FAST, BUT I WON'T HELP YOU. Thanks to all who replied. I'll be putting some part number lists together for whatever I've bought that ends up working. Would you believe an altima rear main seal housing fits an RB engine In fact, Nissan's used the same rear mains on many 6's. All the details to come

Wow. the assistance over on the other boards is astounding. I have one gentleman asking me if I would like to buy a Gregory's Service Manual for 280 AUD. Thats 5 times the price on the Haynes/Gregory website... What a deal!

is that what they're calling it these days

:| Amazing

just curious.. why do the connectors matter at all? if they have a pigtail that hangs off them, you could always get a weather-pack connector and just re-solder the connections where they need to go. Heck you could even get the harness side of the auto TPS and wire that in. unless the auto tps doesn't work at all.

ugh, i got my car for free. but as it sits it already cost me more than you paid for your rolling running chassis

Hey everyone. I've been offered a Gregory Service Manual for 280$ AUD. someone is trying to basically steal from me. I've found the international price of 55 bucks US for either of the Holden Commodore books on the Haynes website. On their site, they have both a Haynes and a Gregory for the same car and same year. Anyone know the difference between the two?

Thanks Ron, They have a minimum quantity of 14 per connector @ 35 cents a piece. Considering I found a set of 2 complete connector pairs for 14 bucks, I think I'll just buy up a minimum quantity with pins too Lord knows I could use them when I get around to that time! thanks for the link

Thanks to all who have replied. Your generosity is appreciated.

I'm just curious, Rob. Would opting out for a different crank that is made of lighter and stronger material benefit the goals of this build in any way? or would it just cause more headaches? I ask because usually a crank is the last thing people buy for japanese engines for whatever reason (probably because of the material cost and shipping/handling charges), and I'm wondering... since you've done a lot to make this engine capable, whats next? lol. surely there has to be some advantages to the available crank designs that aren't only related to strength, no? Sticking with what you've been using reliably in similar applications makes the most sense to me as well, but what would one gain from changing cranks?