Careless

hahahaha, then he gives the car a 5. LOL

I'll take a look at it tomorrow. But you guys should make a serious Z movie, it's such a good thing to base a well produced movie on

yeah yeah, stony. way to rub in the fpr and the nice tigs on the back of the water-tank nice stuff man. you should anodize the car red, and the engine blue, so everything matches. hahaha

HAHHAHA, it took me like 2 minutes of hard staring to figure out that the hose from the Rail was not connected to that 90° bend at the water canister.

these systems also have an artificial feedback/resistance feature that senses wheel-turn limit. As you ease off the turn-in, it will start to rewind, persay, so that it feels like a real pump driven steering mechanism that is pressurized.

Funny story about slave cylinders. I noticed it was the only thing on the car that prevented mine from moving. The clutch pedal is loose, and only has spring resistance. Upon tearing the car down, I found a clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit made by Tokico for Nissan. It comes with a small bleed-valve cover, rubber, pin, and spring if i remember correctly. If you'd like, I can get the part number off the box. it's sitting proudly on top of my car.

Ahh good stuff. Wouldn't want to see that turbo decide to go into orbit on the dyno. LOL "WEEEEEEEE, I'm taking your manifold with me!" *spin spin spin*

jayzus! looks like it could use some bracing though. Have your builders considered any type of turbo strap to relieve stress on the manifold once it gets toasty?

Haha, I counted like 27-29. At no less than 15 bucks a piece, I'd agree. LOL

If you know the part number for either pan, toyota usa/japan will ship it to whatever dealership you order it at.

is it lightweight, and just as well priced? because I wont be making more than 400/400 on my N/A 3.0, i don't think. I don't need a 500hp capable clutch

black center, red lip looks too much like a toy car in this case if you blur your eyes. part of the reason why black would look weird is because as ron stated, it looks good from about 10 feet, but also because in the sunlight, the black on the wheels will not match the black on the plastic parts of the car.

consider painting the entire wheel red, and then covering the sides of the spoked portions and painting the face black, that way it retains the black colour and looks like a full black wheel. But it will not make look like a regular black wheel with "holes" like steelie, which I can agree with ron tyler on. This way, you get the black colour, with some colourful depth to compliment the colour of the car, with which you've done a fine job on accenting already. and keep the chrome trim rings on the tail light panel. I dont see them looking as good painted black, as someone mentioned. especially if you keep the wheels and the misc emblems and bits on the car chromed. Have you considered a hyper-black chrome? or even a bronze? i Like bronze black and red. looks gangster!

gahhhhhh dannnnnnnnnnng

so you took the more realistic route, i presume?

really? heard the same thing about fidanza. Might go with RIPS NZ flywheel. he makes a pretty nice single piece one. not sure how much she weighs though. What about clutches for RB20 transmission? which ones are generally good? Thanks for bringing this up. Raff

Take the bread while it's still hot outta the oven, Dr. Wharton! That's an invite to 500hp worth of butterfly's in your stomach! DO IT!

what if one was to make a plate that encase the ITB stacks, but not completely as to consider it a plenum. Sort of like a heat shield for an exhaust, but instead, one that feeds off vents in the hood or at the edge of the hood? Separating it from the other hot parts so that hot air moves around it? now lets say I did do this, and it was on one side of the car. given the fact that it's an ITB setup, what are the chances of the engine starving a little under hard acceleration into a turn that is opposite of the hood vent? I don't think it'd be a bad idea, seeing as you can filter the hood vent to some extent as well. what say yous?!

HAHAHA. u know... i like that approach. it's a personal "ooooo....ahhhh!" factor test. but then he might get ideas and think of the crowd bickering about how he "beat my enzo with a dog-gone carburetted SR20!" *shakes fist*

3 satisfied customers, coming up hehehe anyone else let me know if they need small stuff for freshening their block and such.

vq35 is lighter and can sit back further in the engine bay than an RB engine can, and it makes almost the same power output as a stock RB, but it's naturally aspirated. I would go VQ35 if money was not an object. And I would probably make it N/A. But it seems as though the drift/power-over craze is going with as much power as possible, and for that you'll probably want to supercharge your VQ

for some reason I've been reading that in most cases, a plenum design will make more power than an individual runner style throttle design with no plenum. I'm not sure if that is at full cruise or on a dyno, as it was never indicated. And it would surely have an effect on how much air is being directed into the front intake pipe in regards to the plenum design. However, It's probably because the people had trouble balancing them out and tuning them properly. I'd assume there are some precautions that wouldn't hurt but are not always neccessary in ITB or IRTB setup that cost a lot of time. Things like cleaning the throttle chambers and plates, as well as the throttle shaft seals, and making sure that they aren't gunky or anything. and measuring the movement of each plate and adjusting them if you have to, or if you can. Considering every mm of air space counts both in the runners and at the valves, no?

JGY customs has both 10.5 lbs flywheel and two different clutch ranges. Ask them for a combo deal. They work for both RB25 and 20, so I don't think there is a difference.

keep it steady and eventually you'll win

BUT WOULD'JA LOOK AT THAT GRINDING I DID ON THAT FIRST JOURNAL GAH'DAYYYUM. hahah, finding a reason to keep myself happy sorta sucks but it's all the fun I got