Careless

DAMN. I was going to come in and post this. It's true. He's been said to have crashed in a helicopter accident on his private residence, in his own helicopter, which he piloted with his license. I don't know the guy, I never met the guy. But I watched him in many rallies televised at a young age, and his video game for the psx was the first game that got me into learning more about what modifications benefit automobiles and such. He's an inspiration to me for starting at such a young age, in his parent's backyard farms with their cars while they were sleeping. If he's indeed no longer with us, then... RIP Colin McRae.

Rob knows his RB30 stuff. Rob has really good product from what I've read. But as you can see by his build thread, Rob has a lot to keep him busy. So I'd rather not bother Rob, he's got a 260 to build that we want to see done. Rob has enough RB30's and probably enough stock in the place that if he actually needed a bunch of bolts or dowels or whatever it is I am looking for, he'd just pry it off something else that had a good condition one. My whole point with posting in the other forums I did was due to the fact that I saw other people posting in there for similar requests, and they were getting the help they needed. So I figured I would give it a shot. After posting the same request in 3 different wordings, in multiple forums and waiting an extensive amount of time in comparison to the others, I decided to comment on how "pathetic" the lack of reply was. I did never call any one person on the forum pathetic, which is what I think they thought actually did. I don't think I've ever called anyone stupid on a forum I hold in high technical regard. Why would I post there if I thought there were stupid people? so stupid people could give me part-numbers? lol. I sure as hell got some stupid replies to my post where I showed my displeasure, though.

Ok, this is making me get pretty fed up. I see this happen all the time. I find that a lot of the over-seas RB30 builders are not being treated fairly by the AUS. I've countlessly witnessed a number of threads that were instantly tended to and taken care of in regards to what was asked for, and I fail to find any difference in the method I take to acquire any info, other than the fact that I do it from the other side of the planet. This has been going on in two AUS RB builder's boards, and I'm going to ask a couple of questions. 1) Is there a problem that AUS folk have with RB buildin' folk in Canada or US? 2) All I need is a either a part number for various things, or an indication of what I can use from JAP RB motors that I can order. And from there I can get a parts number with the model/engine designation. Is this too much to ask? After mentioning how "pathetic" (Yeah, i called it pathetic, so what! IT IS!) I found the above scenario on another board, I was immediately called stupid/mean because "hey, if i took apart the engine, it'd be bloody obvious what needs replacing", and because I was trying to leech information from "hard-learned" individuals who have been doing this stuff for years. HINT: I know what needs replacing. I NEED THE PART NUMBERS for those "bloody obvious" parts. And what have they been doing for years? Ordering and jotting down part numbers? for f**k sakes. I'm not retarded. I'm not commanding respect. I'm not using my recent belt thread as a bargaining chip, because it's been posted in numerous places. I just figure that if I got the time to call a bunch of companies and find out belt sizes and such for a motor that never was really production based, then why is it that a couple of down-under folk can't lend a 4 minute call to nissan for me or something? I even tried calling an AUS dealership, and was put on hold for exactly 13 minutes, with the call-center constantly saying "who are you holding for" again and again. That's long distance money that I got absolutely nothing out of. So what I'm asking from any AUS members here, anyone that has access to an RB30 parts list, or a Nissan FAST CD for rb30's. or anyone that has a nissan dealership that is local that they could get some parts numbers for me, as all I have are the Jap parts numbers for rb20,25,26 models, and not RB30. Reason I ask is because of parts like the crank sprocket. Would you believe that most people use RIPS NZ method of breaking it off, yet no one would provide me with a number for it? What did they do when rebuilding the engine? Weld it back together? I think not. I ended up ordering the RB25 crank sprocket which might not even work. Why? Because I had no choice when ordering my goodies (wanted to do it in one shot), and the RB26 crank sprocket costs 88 dollars, whereas the one I ordered is 22. What's the difference? I don't know, but I guess I'll find out the hard way. so can anyone help? Ideally I was hoping to build a PDF of everything I bought, with everything I encountered along the way, a well as RB26 stuff for my head, but I'm not sure I want to take the time. and If i do, it won't be freely distributed, thats for sure. Heck, I'm going to serialize them so I know who's been distributing my "hard-learned" information. PM me if you can assist me, thanks.

i think they're nicer than the 002

Nice Ron!, where'd you get those weather pack connectors? I can't seem to find them for cheap, and when I do, it's for one side only

I've got the same 12si alternator rebuilt by Champion. There's two things I'd like to mention about buying this alternator. 1) I've read that buying a rebuilt alternator may not give you an alternator with the same amp output as the alternator it once was, as sometimes, the rebuilder would use the same internals or small parts from the lower output alternators to rebuild the one you are buying. I don't think that's true, as I'm sure they test it so that it's within an amp or two of the factory rating if it is to be sold as a specified rating. 2) My friend who gave me the alternator told me something that I would believe to be more true (he's a GM Nut!). He ensured me that the older the casing is before it's rebuilt, the better it is. And he's had this alternator in the garage for a couple of years now, and it's brand new, in box. Reason being is that the old casings were cleaned up better from factory, and they don't have any of the casting-flash from manufacturing. The new casings were made in china and use newer, yet somewhat less well-refined castings, and have flashing on the inside of the case castings. So even after they're rebuilt, casting flash tends to break off from the inside of the alternator, and build up on the innards of the unit. Just something I thought I'd mention. Raff.

Actually, he ships using Greyhound bus, they can stuff ♥♥♥♥ under the bus and drop it off from station to station. I don't think they provide insurance.

you can always buy a harness adapter for the microtech an probably even use the 550cc sard injectors on a new fuel rail with the RB25 head (unless you go RB26, which will cost slightly more). and you could use the turbo, too... since you already have the sohc block, you could just get an RB25 (cheap as hell), and use a lot of the parts in it.

Hi Brian, Glad all the parts number worked out =) Did you try both part numbers that I provided for the eye bolt? remember, I cross referenced it to the Z32 one that they had listed @ courtesy nissan. Have you tried the very first one I listed? If you want, I could call up my Parts guy tomorrow and see if he can get them. But it takes a little while for the parts to come in. say around 3 to 4 weeks. =( Regardless of whether you can wait that long, i'm going to see if he has access to them, and I'll post what I find here. check a fastener place, they should have some close alternatives. Raff

I'm just looking out for you man. I don't want to have to toss a case full of jars filled with gasoline and mulched ivory soap bars into his stock pile and put an end to his bullshit and swindling once and for all. Of course I'd need a match. so lets not strike one with another sour business deal from showcars. From what I've read and heard, I'd rather he burned to the ground the conventional "customer service" way. agree?

Look @ BRAAAP gettin' all "Careless" with the close crop shots. LOL Looks like a fun event, and seems as though you had fun with your camera Great shots!

sorry my lunch break whizzed by and went straight into my belly i think if you refer to the wires on the MAF that you have and the one in the service manual, you can probably figure it out pretty easy if it tells you what they're for.

lol that's basically what it comes down to. remember though, 2JZ's were sold here. RB's of any kind were not. However, prices don't differ much, and the good parts for supras are probably japanese made anyway. The RB26 is torquey too, so with 15% more displacement and a longer stroke, you can bet the RB30 would be torquey aswell. It's really down to what you want. Transmissions seem to be more expensive for supras than rb's, since the RB25 transmission is somewhat more abundant or accessible in terms of pricing flexability. EDIT: OH wait, you're in AUS.... welllllllll then. the RB30 might actually even be cheaper to build up, considering they come in VL's and are not really the most sport cars to be ripping an engine out of. That is in comparison to a 2JZGTE block, and not a 2JZGE block, as I'm sure there are slight differences that get supra fanboys panties in a bunch.

lol. looks like osmeone got creative with what to do with protruding sparkplug terminals. "hey, let's rest this on here and trip out the interweb folk!"

DON'T BUY THOSE FLARES I went there for the same flares. let me tell you what happened. 1) He wasn't there when he said he would be 2) He wasn't there for 2 hours 3) I got stoned off the resin smell in the store-room (BONUS!) 3a) got illegally stoned with one of the cool workers who was there waiting for the boss too (BONUS x2! + double high!) 4) When he got there, he told me the prices on his website were US prices... FINE 5) He started looking under some flares for corvettes and other larger cars, and pulled two fenders out that he said were IMSA flares. 6) He offered a ride to the gas station so I could extract money from my account. 7) I waited for the ride, while he was on the phone arguing with someone who was to receive a mustang hood THE IMSA FLARES did not look anything like the ones on the site, the ones on marc rolstons car, and the ones you want. BUT i bought them anyways because they were somewhat stylish. HOWEVER, they were horrible quality. Upon leaving, a friend of mine who went with me said "My friend mark can make you way better fiberglass flares, or atleast give you the stuff you need to make your own" Sure enough, I went to his house with my friend, and he gave me 10 meters of woven aircraft grade glass sheet, and 10 meters of stranded sheet for 10 bucks. HE IS A CON ARTIST, HE IS VERY UNORGANIZED, AND HE DOES NOT KNOW WHERE THE ♥♥♥♥ HE PUTS HIS STUFF. OH, and just to let you all know... most of his stuff is stored OUTSIDE. EVEN THROUGH WINTER. So if you buy something from him, expect it to be warped, damaged from winter cold and summer sun, and a horrible piece all together. I did see some nice pieces in his shop, and I'm willing to bet he bought them to copy them... And i saw a Gnose there too. and it was awful, sitting in a shed outside in the cold, ready to be repaired because the front bumper was cracked all over. So the best advice I can give regarding ROB @ showcars body parts is... dont do drugs. you may end up buying shitty fibreglass parts.

found this on another site. If you can cross-ref with RB wiring diag (maybe I can do it for you on lunch at work), then you can do this easily. Unless you need a signal conditioner. Not sure why though. Red is the 5 volt input wire White is the TPS signal wire Black is the sensor return wire

AHH! there you is! that's about 500 fly, give or take a bit, no?

0hhhhhh that's a no-no I'm going to be using open stacks with ITB's. I COULD make an equalizing chamber to acquire more vacuum assist with the air balancing tube, and run lines from the air holes with small o-ring + teflon tape AN fittings. I think that's what i'll do once I get it running. I can always pull the throttles off and adapt this mod to the head once I have the engine running and everything is all good. Great stuff, stony

i did a quick glance, but i didn't see whether or not the linkages were taken off, and I can't really tell since I don't have my engine head yet. (shipping container issues) Hmmm... im guessing since those pieces have injector bungs, and no throttle plates, those go against the head. and since the gasket kit from Nissan has two or 3 sets of ITB gaskets, those probably go in between the injector runner section and the throttles bolt on the front those. am I right on this? after-market single TB's would only need the injector runner section. I thought the after-markets were a single piece and the greddy intake manifolds had their own runners and injector bungs, I guess there are two different styles? I could have sworn I saw one with runners and mounts for a fuel rail.

NICE! one question. is it possible to retain the stock throttle linkage for the ITB's, or is this mainly for plenum/greddy style large single TB setups, as it looks like the hoses might get in the way of the linkages, no? But this is something i'd like to try, even if I don't need it. I like fabbing little things like this up =) I'd probably end up using two more of the same AC tanks that i've used for the gasoline surge tank. It'd be cool to have matching cans on either side of the motor. One for coolant, and one for oil-catch, and then another at the back for fuel surge =D these things come in handy when not being used for AC!

How about "there's no Z in Rice" BAM!

wild rice sounds less ricey than some tuff rice if you wanted to go super rice, you could do SomTuf Rice, and have some wheat stalks springin' out.

do you have a pic of the head lines?

and gah-dayum! 680hp.! @ what RPM? way to go

only 25 and 26 gears fit 26 cams. hey Booztd3, have you considered getting new bolts from Nissan? I can get you part numbers. I have HKS cam gears on the way, but i ordered them anyways. EDIT: new bolts probably wouldn't do much, seeing as the cap screws are part of the adjustable cam gear facing, and not the stock cam gears.... hmmmmm..