Careless

In this case, a really good jigsaw with no blade-slop and a metal short-tooth blade would work good but you'd hvae to be extra careful in the last couple of millimeters. also, you could buy a small saw from Lowes or Home Depot that is almost as thin as a jigsaw blade and could fit in there no problem

when you say boost solenoid are you talking in reference to the same "boost sensor" on z31's? I'm wondering if that boost sensor is actually for the "excess power" meter on my digital dash.

is it me or did they not get the 2 seater z31 in finland/sweden. all the ones on the s30z.info sister sites are all 2+2. nice find, and I hope the VG30ET treats you better than it treats me!

please post pics of the engine in the car when you get a chance, I'd like to see it. and post here if you need any other part numbers.

what's "not" to be excited about. sorry.

Sorry for being "disingenous", but I'm actually more mistaken in regards to where I saw that written. And to correct myself, I will revise my quote: Haynes Manual: "to facilitate engine head removal, remove engine" Clearly stated in the Haynes manual, also shown with pictures of the full engine on an engine stand. Written and illustrated by people who took apart a NEW Nissan Z. I can tell you from first hand experience that if I were to do the heads or anything on my Z31 again, I'm pulling the engine completely. Lets recall the definition of the word "facilitate". It's not a necessity by any means.

http://cgi.ebay.com/A5-size-electroluminescent-sheet-El-back-light-panel_W0QQitemZ110295665463QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110295665463&_trkparms=72:1205|39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 http://cgi.ebay.com/12-volt-DC-inverter-for-El-wire-strip-tape-panel-sheet_W0QQitemZ380062358432QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 talk with the seller to see if you require a lower-powered inverter for a cut sheet, as listed inverter is for the full sheet size. You may overpower the foil and burn it out, which can happen. It just starts to fade or not work at all over time. Keeping the amperage just below the full-lit operating amperage will extend the life of the EL foil drastically. Same as an incandescent light bulb running at 50% power with a dimmer. It will last more than 20 times longer.

*starts re-reading thread after minor brain malfunction*

Alternatively , you can use EL Wire, which can be wrapped and hot glued into place along the perimiter of a set of guages. It will definately give a cool look, and if you can get clear needles for your guages and stick a 3mm high powered LED in there too they would look very cool. the inverters are cheap as well.

EL foil can be cut as long as the "BUS LINE" which is the positive and negative terminals, be intact in a certain way. It is dependant on the manufacturing process of the EL foil and how they have arranged their sequence of terminals along the edge. In addition, you need an inverter to hook up to the EL foil that uses a special PWM type circuit (I think) that will allow the colour to change from green to blue for a standard EL sheet, or Red to Pink on those EL sheets, or yellow to Orange on those colour-ranged sheets. The 12 volt inverter's colour changing capability is, what I think to be, a direct relation of how bright you want it to be. There is a point at whcih you can get the Red to be solid enough to look nice, or you can blast the voltage up and have it bright pink, which is indefinitely brighter. I experimented with cutting and printing EL foil for a friend, but after providing him with the finished product we got into an argument and have not spoken since. So, I can't comment on it's success, but I know that's how it's done.

I would go so far as to say I've personally seen a tire stretched perhaps 10% less than that one blow out under a hard bump on an S13. I think the stretch does look a little clean in that it allows deep wheels to clear the fenders, whether rolled/punched out or factory sized, but don't say it's 100% safe, because it takes a lot more side-wall loading to stretch a wire-wound tire to a wheel that it was definitely not made to fit in such a manner. But as I said, that stretch is just ridiculous, and while I agree with ZWOLF's sentiments regarding it's ridiculousness, to each his own! and if you wanna run it, gaw'head! I just wouldn't change those looks over the front end/cost of refinishing a wheel to look sooper-drift.

If you ran into work knowing you had to take a crap, you could at least be sincere and see that he's right in what he did. if he respects the time and money of the person who hired him, clocking you out while you STARTED your shift on the can is exactly what I would have done. put yourself in the position of the person who pays you, whether it's the manager who clocked you out or otherwise. sure, they may have a lot more money than you do, but that gives you no excuse to receive half of your first hour's wage for having a fight with what you ate for dinner last night. When my new employer is constantly on the phone trying to tell customers to give him a minute to talk to me, and a computer starts to freeze up, and the network starts to go down, and there is a serious deadline for a huge publication that we can't fault on, I respect the fact that he: A) does not expect me to answer the office phone, which is something I've been expected to do at all my previous jobs. does not care if I check my email every 30 to 45 minutes for about 1 or 2 minutes at a time (I got my own clients/family that I talk to as well) C) He's trying hard to GIVE me work to do so that I don't waste his time, and it's really nothing he can prevent. I usually clock out of my OnTheJob program because I feel that he doesn't deserve to be stripped of 20 or 30 bucks because he hasn't had time to tell me what to do. And in that time, I could be researching other projects we've discussed, but his clients always change their mind. So Instead, I come on HybridZ or other websites I frequent, and I time-out. If you don't respect the work your boss or manager put in for either you or someone else they work for and with, then you will definitely have more people acting like an anal-orifice towards you. Something I've learned a year or two ago, when my last employer expected me to do 75 more chores for the measly 75 cent raise he gave me. Needless to say, I left within a month and he has not found anyone with my level of expertise that's willing to take what he's offering since May. Now onto idiot manager/project coordinator from clients. I hate it when customers ask us to do websites, and the first thing that we get is a list of "things they would like", but never any content. When building a proper web application, they seem to act as if things are SO easy to integrate and even easier for them to operate. When building web applications for the end user, the back-end coder is always the one that has to suffer and put in long hours, only to find something doesn't work quite right, or to make it a 20 second operation for their clients to be able to do small things. Building a specific web application one way, to strict guidelines, only to have someone say "oh, can we insert video there?!", after discussions of "video integration" went down the tubes just weeks prior really gets to people in my field. The worst is when you show a customer a quote for a job in two capacities and they reply with "can I get THAT job, with the OTHER ONE's price?". I think it goes without saying that people want to get more for less. But if clients would just be upfront and get their act together, most of the time they would get EXACTLY what they want for the BEST PRICE possible. I'm with Calgary280ZT on his views on this matter. I've had the privilige of working with clients who know exactly what they want, are clear, and understand what's being done and how much it costs. And I've learned from my new employer that if a client is giving the run-around it's best to be as polite as possible and tell them you're "not interested in pursuing the following changes, as they were not quoted for in the original project outline and will waste our time, and your money". Can't get any more clear than that!

beautiful colour and pics!

Justin, I'm disappointed that you didn't go with the Pregnant Nun costume instead!

compression looks even across the board, can't see what's to be excited about!

I'd say a bit more. Closer to 225?

n3v4r t00 l4t3!

The stuff is pretty thick and it spreads out very very thin when compressed. I just used all new 8.8 M8x1.25 bolts from Lowes/HomeDepot, and I applied it to the turbine housing in about a 1/4 inch bead all around. Let it sit for 20 minutes. Prepare the bolts and nuts with Copper Permatex Anti-Seize, and put the turbine housing in a fixture to hold it in stead, and then slowly work the downpipe onto the studs and press it down evenly. Have someone thread the two nuts on so that it is held. The stuff will spill out the sides a lot if you put too much, and it might actually do the same on the inside at the turbine wheel. I think a bit of it got on my turbine wheel. I'm hoping it burns off because it's in the direct path of the heat, whereas the flange-squeezed portion is just acting as a thin sealing barrier. We'll see how it goes, the Turbo is going back in the car tonight. Raff

so purdy.

did you consider printing your guages on EL foil and running a small 12v power inverter to control the tint/brightness?

Actuators: You cannot buy them from nissan, they are part of the turbocharger. If you can, they sure as hell don't come up on an Nissan FAST parts page that I can see here. Sorry. Intake Gaskets: 16175-05U70 The Intake to Throttle gaskets are the same as the Throttle to spacer-manifold gaskets (at least that's what I call it), 6 per head, 3 infront of the manifold, 3 behind the manifold. The spacer to head gaskets are the different ones.

That is the worst/ugliest stretch on a tire that I've ever seen. When is enough enough? That isn't even safe.

where the heck have you been?

is there any way you can move the door clasp closer to the inside of the car and further away from the door panel (outside). that would put it closer to the pin that it has to latch onto, and reduce the tightness of the hold when clicked in. 2 or 3 millimeters should do it.