Careless

if you let the brake or clutch master cylinder lose enough fluid to expose the orifices in the unit, you might have to completely remove the system and bench bleed it. that could be the only way to remove the air in the system, but you could try using a pressurized bleeder or a vacuum bleeder to help in taking the air out of the clutch and brake master.

That's what I was thinking. I checked a bit around on fast. Couldn't find any distinction. I think if I look for around on FAST some more, I could find a car with the same turbo (just look for no gasket in the parts dissection!) and then see if there's a wastegate on another part of the car's manifold system.

LOL, I would consider a highly pliable engine mount for that turbo. hahahahah it looks almost as if the turbo would be what's driving the transmission, a la turbine engine, and the RB is there to help it get to operating speed faster. LOLOL jayzus murphy

WOWZ0RS. great post! MANNNNNNNNNNN if I had an Italian car (and I should damnit, I'm Italian!), Those COPPA seats would be the first thing in the looks department. GAHHHHHHHHHT DANG. I R IN LOVE. Really though, great post. I need to get an old luxury lancia or something now.

And after looking at your bolt pattern, it DOES look like a z31 turbo. But it may be a Z31 racecar turbo that was in some form of nissan/nismo sponsored car. It has the same bolt pattern as mine, it has a 3 digit RXX something code on the throat, and it look as if it's a race application. There were some cars with external waste gates, but I don't think they were Z31's.

jerry jerry jerry.... no 30thou gasket, please. save your dollars, and buy a 7 dollar tube of ULTRA COPPER PERMATEX GASKET. I just used it on my turbo and so does my turbo rebuilder. He used the same stuff on a 1000hp corvette that he tuned last year and it hasn't had the turbos removed since and the exhaust does not leak through. Infact, he gave me back my turbo with some of that stuff but told me not to carry it by the DownPipe because it was not bolted, just held to the turbo with copper seal. But we sat in the car and chatted about my turbo, and like an idiot, I did the opposite and grabbed it by the downpipe and I carried it all the way to the garage from the front of the house 100 feet, and the turbo separated less than 1mm from the dp when I finally put it down, and the copper seal extended itself and did not have any holes almost all the way around. So even when it's almost dry it has enough elasticity and temp resistance to be the right stuff. (NO. NO! don't go using Permatex "Right Stuff" now that I said that! LOL) I ended up moving the turbo around throughout the night (and not learning from my mistakes and instruction cause i was hustlin' and bustlin' all around the garage), and it eventually separated to the point where I decided to remove the DP completely, let the stuff dry 100%, and then removed it with a scotch brite pad and some Brake Cleaner. And I reapplied it and found out that he did not drill out one of the turbine housing bolts, perhaps because it broke off deep in there and he didn't see a bit of the bolt broken in there. But, I think this copper stuff is good enough, so I'm not worrying about it. It's very close to another bolt anyway, and it's at the waste gate side, so it most likely does not get as hot as the turbine wheel that is re-routing more of the exhaust than the waste gate flapper is. The tube is gold, and it's called ultra copper. Very good stuff.

and hey, at least you fed it synthetic instead of dyno oil. I mean, the engine probably likes the taste of the newer stuff, not the 65 million year old stuff. There should be an expiry date on it!. My engine is going to have to ration whatever it can get from the catch can if it wants to eat oil this time around.

I solved that. (maybe? anyone else with turbo catch can experiences?) Made a catch can. Pressure side of pcv system goes to intake on catch can. catch can goes turbo piping. Z31 turbo PCV valve on the line that goes to the turbo (so that under boost it closes). catch can inlet has a tube on the inside that goes 1 inch above the bottom of the can. outlet side does not have a tube (keep them at different levels so oil doesnt just whisk around at the top or bottom and get sucked in easily. bottom of can has a drain-cock with a large steel brake line that I am routing to an easy spot to fit a drain pan under so it doesnt drip on my engine bay. inside of can also has a divider with perforations in it, and on the outlet side, the divider is stuffed with stainless steel wool, the curly ball kind not the #0000 Fine Grade polishing type. This stops soot or oily deposits from traveling up the side of the can and going to the turbo. I think it's gonna keep my engine so clean, that I am going to go for a drive-clean test just to see how well my 87 gets compared to my friend's cars which are much older, even though my car is more than 20 years old and doesn't ever need to do emissions... I think having more power and keeping the environment cleaner is something to brag about !

Dave!!!! Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaave!!! I am fully with you on this one. MAN OH MAN how bad my intake piping was. The previous stoner (I mean, uhhhh.... owner?! hey, his eyes were always red) never changed the PCV valve since the car was bought by the ORIGINAL owner. He said he kept ALL receipts, no matter how big or small the total was. I HAVE all the receipts... NO PCV Valve! When i took my passenger side valve cover off, guess what BLACK SOOT all over the rocker arms and valve springs. ugly dirty scummy carbon deposity soot! When i took the vacuum side/driver side off, guess what. NICE bronzing all over the valvetrain, clean as any whistle you'd put your mouth on! (ever see a referee blow a whistle that fell off their landyard? ewww guy, that's not clean! this valvetrain was KLEEN). And my turbo? Compressor housing FULL of oil. That's how I KNEW it was not the rings. My engine has amazing bores still (like glass, but not a scratch!). My turbo rebuilder even made the comment (before i mentioned anything about my PCV mis-hap) that if the PCV valve is not replaced, the turbo does not suck in the oil properly and under boost it will actually spit the oil out back into the crank case. This is even worse than not using your turbo timer while driving leisurely around town (under hard driving it's SUPER BAD). The oil in there can be heated, but not for too long in the same spot, it has to move. If there is only a slight film of oil, it will wet the seals on the compressor housing and will lock them into an open position when the carbon buildup and heat dry out the oil film and create crud between seal/housing. Another way of oil getting into the turbo and intake pipe... through the turbo seal! I put two and two together and figured that all the pcv valve was doing was washing the intake with oil under vacuum from the turbo at low rpm. Since the previous owner said he NEVER drove it hard, only when he first bought it... it makes complete sense. Stop and go vacuum all the time... OR, my alter-excuse for the oily mess was that it was pressurizing the passenger head so much since there was no release for all that vacuum, that oil started to squirt in from the PCV rather than just blow-by gas. That would explain all the oil ending up RIGHT over the valve train on the intake springs on my car (V6, intake valves are closest to inside of engine, PCV DIRECTLY over intake valve springs, and goes into the intake directly above with an L shaped PCV hose, into the PCV valve right on the intake) All in all, I ended up going from a clutch swap to an exhaust leak repair, to a manifold stud extraction, to a head removal, and now to a turbo rebuild... and you know what... Cost me a lot, but I'm glad I did. I am SO Getting rid of that PCV system and running it to a catch can (Which I just made yesterday from a thermos ) The flame arrestor also shows up in the Nissan FAST for Z31's. Flame sounds like fire prevention, and back-fire arrestors are for oxy-acetalyn welding setups to avoid explosions, so it might be wise to find a new set of them and pop them in. As for the PCV valve being a check valve.... YES. in the Z31 PCV valve (which makes it easy to see, since honda's and such are L shaped). There is a small ball bearing type moving piece inside that is spring loaded and under vaccum it is loose enough to be sucked in and mostly likely reveal small orifaces that would limit oil and send out just the blow-by gases. Under boost, the spring and intake pipe pressure force it closed. At least that's how i think mine works from seeing it. All this milarky happening with my car, but I'm learning a lot from seeing the ugliness that it once was :'( Sure it's just going back to stock with a slight drivetrain upgrade and all new parts, as well as some head porting, but man... the small things create the biggest problems! I even found a friggen CARB JET lodged into the actuator vacuum line. No wonder this car was a rocket when I drove it (for 10 measly days! just enough for a taste of boost from my own vehicle...)

noiiiiiiice joint cut! EDIT: hate your exhaust. I think it SUCKS!... ... cause it's not on my car

Yep, a number of us have been in contact with Larry Wildmer. He is very helpful and also a very busy guy. In my opinion, reading his technical articles has led me to believe he is one of the top in the industry. I may or may not send another head to him in the future. But I had good results porting my VG-E heads so i'm going to do it myself with the RB one too awesome stuff though, eh?

Thanks everyone. We'll see what happens when I get the bearing. I'm basically going to flip a coin. best 2 out of 3 wins. I have a bottle of Heavy Duty Moly Grease, but it doesn't say "Tacky" in it. It is also black and sticky, and feels kinda like velvet, it's not as plastic/shiney feeling as the other grease I've used. Thanks Grumpster

No picture or part number in Nissan's catalogue. look at the red part

well if you bought recaro's and they werent period correct, and you wanted them to look as such... then i'd be worried more about my $1600 dollar non-period correct purchase!!! LOL. to each is own. I think they're awesome show pieces. you could always swap in a lighter seat on race day and remove the pass seat if need be.

I believe I have received my oil head drain. It's at the parent's place with the rest of the RB stuff. Thanks Paul!

incorrect. if you had lower quality injectors they would most likely dump less fuel seeing as they might not power up the coil fully.

lol ill take the 8 gigs of info on two dvd's. how much you want ?

I guess I might as well mention that the manifolds also leak at the head. And the flex joint in the cross over pipes always crack (look for black soot!). And in addition to that, it's not easy to remove the cross over pipe from the car without removing the passenger side manifol, as there are studs that get in the way and flanges with sleeves inside. In doing that, you'll find that there are broken exhaust studs once you pull off the passenger manifold. And then you can't even put a new gasket there because it won't seat properly. So then you end up like me, trying to take studs out for 2 weeks, only to find that there are 2 of them broken off on the passenger side head, and 3 of them broken on the driver side head. Try fixing that with the engine in the car. Here I am doing the pilot bearing job from hell, that's now turned into the "where are the bolts from this part" head-gasket job from the underworld.

good stuff. it's pretty clear to me

ughhhhhhh, this is so hard. some people saying they ran fine, others saying it's intended for race purposes. FINNNNNNNEEEE i'll use the solid bushing I have and I'll put the other one in my RB30DE

it does not make sense for a shipping company to allow engines to roll over suddenly like that. the company who packed the engine should have mounted it in a crate or securely onto a pallet by it'self. It's best not to accept the item and have your business taken elsewhere. If they can't pack a high-ticket item properly, it's someone you shouldn't be deelin wif.

should have left the engine with the delivery dudes and filed a claim on your payment to have it canceled. that's when engine suppliers start talking real business. how were the feed lines damaged by the turbo itself? I would be worried that they didn't move the manifolds enough to snap any studs and/or crack the heads. !!!! crossing my fingers for you.

a D90 or a 5D^2 might be a sizable upgrade if you're into it

I'D STILL ROCK THEM! thanks for the info! I wonder if they are available with the rest of the part number.... hmmm