Careless

noiceeee

damn. i hope your claims video helps them shut up and accept the fact that they are distributing faulty parts. as a side note.. I had a friend that did just about everything to a CRX at one point. he changed this and that... but the engine ran like ♥♥♥♥. turns out the SAME piece on the air filter that broke on yours decidede to wedge itself in one of the intake ports, and was restricting airflow to one of the cylinders. Pieces of shite.

Matt, aside from the obvious quench pad removal, and slight polishing of the combustion chamber and deck surface, what are the other mods here? do i see oversized intake valves and standard RB26 exhaust valves in your photo? are there any valve types you recommend with such a modified head? Titanium/Stainless? I know the exhaust ones are sodium filled already, but is it worth changing out the valve guides to the softer and less brittle aftermarket versions and spec'ing out titanium valves? And in the spark plug orifice, I see some chamfered cuts. Are these flame-front promoters of some sort? They differ from the shallow bumps on the original picture i posted. Have you any documentation surrounding the GT500 modifications you mentioned being publicly available in a thread from 2006? Most other website have threads "about" the RB26 head, but no pictures or little if any. lets make something worthwhile here. we're off to a good start.

Hi. I just got my cylinder head (RB, though) and this is the most popular head forum on the site, so I'm posting here so many more people can comment and give experienced answers. Sorry in advance to those who may object, I just find it makes sense to post this info here since more will see it. I've been prowling the web and other boards for methods on a TOTAL aluminum head cleaning. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to fully clean an aluminum engine head without using damaging solvents? The cam bores on the RB engine heads are VERY critical in that a scratch or two can render the entire head useless (because you can't order the cam caps separately). I was advised to get a big metal tub, fill it with distilled water, and boil the head with a propane heater from underneath until all the soot and carbon deposits free up from the exhaust ports and become part of the water. Are there any other methods of getting inside EVERY nook and cranny of the head so that it will facilitate porting and modifying the engine head with no worry of missing anything minute due to cover-up by dirt? Lets here it!

Q, I have a 76 280z. I like the tails and the interior of the 280z a little better, and the rear strut towers facilitate S13/14 IRS integration a lot better than the earlier shallow strut towers, from what I've read. It would be an upgrade I desire if I were to start working on this car again. Dayz... two reasons... 1. space... and 2. it's just a project I've not had time to work on this summer due to my z31 needing immediate attention, as well as my father being in recovery (doing well, if anyone is wondering!). I also have been working long hours in order to obtain money for my photography gear and my upcoming laptop so that I may work from home or on the road, in the backyard with a case of cold wobbley-pops or at a friend's house instead of staying cooped up here in my room which I rent. The garage was never part of the deal, it was just one of those things... I guess we all hit this point in stagnant projects, and it's a move that I have no decision in... IF it's what the landlord says, it is what it will be. In a way, seeing as it's going, I'm glad I've not put parts on it that cost me money. I can either save them for the re-birth of the project, sell them for more than I bought them for cause they're at my parents place (for which I have no room for another car), or keep them as spares if I do indeed get a car with good quarters and whatnot. The engine I have bought and put a lot of money in parts into will be built, regardless of what happens. I am really into building this engine more than I thought I would be, and it's something I will take my time with to get it done right. I don't really think that the S30 chassis is of any use to anyone though... it's pretty bad, but that's why I kept it... I wanted to try new things on this car. OH WELL! we'll see how it goes.

I'll start with detonation due to quench/swirl pads on the combustion chambers. I just took this picture with my new D300, and thought it would be good to show what cheftrd and Larry at Endyne have been educating us on. as you can see, both the intake and exhaust suffered on this engine head. Hopefully the rest of the head is still in good condition. From what I undertand, this engine ran down with heat due to the fact that the oil pump drive shattered, and the piston oil squirters could not keep up with low oil volume. From the front of the head, this is a picture of Chamber 2, I believe. Chamber 1 has a pin-hole or two on the exhaust side. Chamber 3 has a couple as well on both sides. I will be posting pictures of the head in detail, so that we can use them to dissect and draw upon. This would allow us to illustrate our thoughts better. As soon as I clean the work bench I'll get to it. I cleaned this head with some SuperClean (bad for aluminum if left on too long, just like SimpleGreen, be careful!), and then re-cleaned it with dish washing soap (mmmm... Dawn Ultra - Hint of Lime scent, aluminum safe!) to remove the remaining aluminum eating chemicals that could ruin the cam bores. I then sprayed it a bit here and there with WD40 to replenish lubricity between parts that I may move in my handling of the item. I cleaned the head with brass brush that was not too hard. It did not leave any scratches in the deck surface, which made me feel comfortable in using it to scrub the head really vigorously. Not bad for 2 bucks. I bought a small dremel brass brush attachment that I will be using to clean up the nooks further. Are there any picture requests for those inqusitive minds that need to know something or other? Let me know.

56K warning. (and work warning for shots of nicely modified parts) Please accompany thread posts with as many high-quality server-hosted (so they don't go missing) photos in order to make your comments clear. If need be, I can host your photos. Just name the appropriately, or I guess I can do that for you. General info and pictures to discuss about ideas and solutions you have experienced or think people should know about.

I remember that post, cygnusx1. it was definitely a huge surprise when you posted the verdict.

good job, almost undetectable had you posted it without the original it would take an avid photoshop user a good long start to see the slight hard edge on the reflection under the left vent, and the small line where the old vent edge was at the bottom of the right side. i do this for a living, so don't take my comments to heart. any of my clients would be completely satisfied with your work. cheers, keep it up

mah nutts dang 'sploded!

yeah, i kinda don't want it to go, but if it has to, I'll end up getting another 280z down the road. for now I'll work on the engine and the z31. I'll leave out the trumpets and the exhaust manifold for the RB30DE engine, and I'll build it up to spec. I think I'm going to have to grind down my head quite a bit or get the detonation marks welded in via TIG professionally. At that point, I might have to get new pistons if I decide to grind out the quench pads, and then I'll contact endyne for a set of roller waves that will give me like... 12:1 or something. Who knows! I'm glad I didn't put all my eggs in that basket, cause if anything I just stripped parts from it, and I guess I'll pull the engine before I send the car off to someone who will give me like 200 bucks, or send it to the scrappers as a bare shell. It's really only worth anything if someone has the quarter panels that I do. But those I can sell for more than I bought them for here in Ontario =) Then again, I may just hold onto them and move them to the basement since they're in my father's recovery room right now. Doesn't look good beside the TV and the Bed. LOL.

mike, that looks great. what is the ID/OD" of the Fujitsubo header?

so the N/A cross members are the same as the 200ZR's? Ideally i'd like to convert some s14 coils for the front, and possibly use my S14 subframe that I have left over from the s30 build (in the event that it must go), so I can see how to fit up some S14 rear subframe stuff. hmmmmm Raff

hmmmmmm... if that's what you describe yours as, then mine must be like super-corny-poop.

also... how does one clean an aluminum head inside the exhaust ports. I was considering boiling the head, but I don't have anything large enough to boil it in, and hot enough to make it work unless i get my father's propane burner. I got the out side of the head pretty much spotless, save for some funky yellow gunk on the intake side in the water jackets... maybe it's just remnance of the green coolant in the mother-land?. annnnnd... i got mad detonation marks in cylinder 2 from the front. horrible horrible detonation marks on the quench pads. I may just end up grinding them out, but then I will lose displacement because of the amount i will have to have machined off the head to bring my compression back into spec. pics to come later. so far, everything is in good condition... just trying to piece together a set of springs and whatnot... I should probably start my own thread soon.

great work. i think it looks superb (minus the wheels ). 550rwhp is damn good at 15psi. is there another turbo in the near future? GT42 maybe? Boozt3d had great results on an near-stock RB26 with one of them.

does anyone have access to, or can show me where to get the documentation and or publications with the quoted info? thanks

... so if i get a front cross member from a 200ZR RB20 Z31, and the proper engine mounts... and the pan and pickup which I have... ...it should fall right into my Z31 if I push it over the rad support with a friend, right? all I would need is the bell housing too. I'm curious if the dash would work too if I were to do some rewiring of some stuffs. I figure I'll build up my RB30DE so that it's ready to go should something fail or if I have to say good bye to my S30 due to space and people not taking matters into their own hands when they don't understand the logic of certain situations (cause there is none, and it's utterly stupid) and how to avoid these types of conundrums... a 300+ some-odd hp N/A Z31 is a rarity at best, anyway.

all the best, i hope it's a good day for you when you get there.

go for it. then we can both be born on december 14, both want racinjitter's car, and both own Z31's.

how loud are the 044's? I was in a car recently with what the driver told me was a bosch unit, but did not know if it was an 044... and it was kinda loud. perhaps fastened to the frame rail without bushings of any sort? it was irritating if u listened for it. and once you found the pitch with your ears it was hard to shake off.

well ground billet rods and forged rods are varying in price... really the name brand is what makes the difference. there are manley rods that go for 800 a set, and there are Eagle ESP rods that go for 520 a set. I think the spool rods from australia will be capable of running what you want at a respectable power level and budget. their rods are all made using the same machining and forging process and are proven to above-600 hp levels in all of the engines they've made them for. I would, and am putting my money on spool RB30 rods. Mainly because I've seen forged rods go for double the price of other forged rods, and I won't be making more than Spool has tested them too (keeping it real!). cheftrd on these forums mentioned 1 piece vs 2 piece forgings and their differences and qualities but I don't recall what was mentioned. It also had something to do with Carillo and HKS rods being similar or something. keep in mind that I have a friend who has repeatedly built V8 chevy's with Eagle rods, Scat rotating assemblies, and various other branded parts, and has not had a problem with them at 400+ hp. Most people go with forged because of availability, and they hold up to abuse fine from what I can tell. so far there have been no horror stories from any RB'ers here.

you should really post the MSQ and a ZIP of all the images if possible. that would make the thread easier to read. but your dedication to allowing everyone see your settings is second to none good stuff! that's a lot of image code and uploading.

well how much power, how many rpm, and how much money do you want to spend to get there?

will do. im working for quality, not speed i have many die grinders of various sizes. electric ones, air powered ones... this one is the easiest to control and hasn't let me down, so...