Miles

You seem to have several conflicting design approaches in mind. Asking for opinions will net you as many opinions as there are HybridZ members. Suggest you research HybridZ and Google for German Z car builds (many). This will help you scope the project according to German market, regulations, part availability and etc. In the end your project will be defined by: Local regulations Budget Skill level Project plan (suggest a "Build spread sheet" listing all costs and part numbers broken down by system such as engine, drive train, suspension, brakes etc)

More Darious

And then there is Darious

Check this out: Contact the OP "ezzzzzzz" and see how the 280zx calipers worked out.

Here is an option I looked at: Mustang rear calipers with parking brake. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/stage-4-rear-big-brake-kit

VQ pioneer:

Given your constraints, and if I lived in Germany, my recommendation would be: Start with a rust free non-modified 240Z. Stock brakes are fine. Rebuild the entire brake system. If available use Carbotech AX6 pads and shoes. Replace all of the rubber suspension bushings with polyurethane Replace springs: Front 180 lb/in Rear 220lb/in. A Z car is low enough, so select springs that maintain stock ride height. Rebuild engine with modifications that meet local codes/rules. Rebuild/upgrade clutch components If allowed, consider a five speed transmission. Research first as there are pros and cons and several transmissions to select from. Upgrade tires and wheels per local codes. Recommend installing the headlight relay harness available from one our members on HybridZ. Your lights will be brighter and you can run higher wattage bulbs. The harness is also available from MSA Motor Sports Auto (MSA). This will give you a very comfortable daily driver that handles well under most driving conditions. Brakes: If you absolutely can't resist doing a "brake upgrade" install the Toyota 4x4 solid front calipers and stop there . The Toyota caliper is made by the same company that made the 240Z caliper so it might get a pass by your code guys.

How will the car be driven? Street only? Race/autocross? What are your constraints? Government regulations Experience Budget Parts availability Shop space What are the common 240Z engine swaps in Germany? Are there 240Z clubs in Germany? Clubs are good source of information Engine swaps, and parts swaps in general, tend to have a domino effect that adds complexity and cost.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129292-unsure-what-engine-to-chose-can-i-get-some-input/?tab=comments#comment-1207467

I recall others talking about installing a 280ZX braking system in a 240Z/280Z, but never heard back how it worked out. Hope you will take pictures and report back when you finish the swap. I wonder if there is room to squeeze in the larger 1979 280ZX booster. I am now using Carbotech AX6 pads on a Toyota - 240SX set up on my 240Z. The Carbotech AX6 pads have excellent cold bite and grab hard when hot. They are suitable for street and auto x.

The Maxima swap will not improve stopping performance. And you may end up having to install a larger diameter master cylinder. Do not remove the proportioning valve until you have estimated your front to rear balance/bias based on your final selection of calipers, rotors etc. The Maxima, and similar 240SX rear brake swaps, don't improve performance. Just less drum maintenance. Remember that a proportioning valve reduces pressure. All of the Toyota, 280ZX, 240SX and Maxima brake combinations end up with too much front brake bias i.e, the rear brakes can't keep up with the front brakes. So adding a proportioning valve to the rear brakes will not help unless you are experimenting with front and rear pad choices for off-street racing events.

Good point.

Do you run any proportioning valve at all? Yes. I installed a Wilwood proportioning valve only because I was experimenting with different caliper and pad configurations. I now leave it wide open. I would remove it, but I am too lazy to crawl under the car. A proportioning valve reduces pressure to the rear brakes. All of these brake swaps are biased towards the front not rear (60%F 40%R to 70%F 30%R) so a proportioning valve makes no sense UNLESS you plan on racing with aggressive pads on the rear which you "dial-in" while racing. You have a 280Z with the larger 8.5in booster which will help with the stiffness caused by the larger bore 15/16 MC. Go with the Carbotech AX6 pads and you should be ok. Don't waste your money on Hawk or Porterfield street pads - they do not perform well in traffic. See attached brake bias data: BRAKE BIAS CALC INPUT and RESULTS.docx

Should have researched this more. Lots of info in the brake section. Stock brakes are fine. The Toyota vented/solid front and Maxima/240SX rear is biased towards the front 60% front and 40 % rear. This is based on my own calculations and actually experimenting with the following: Stock front 240SX rear Stock front Maxima rear Solid Toyota Stock rear Vented Toyota stock rear Vented Toyota 240SX Is there a fix? No, but people have tried putting more aggressive pads on the rear to achieve better front - rear balance. Probably ok for racing. No, you can't put a proportioning valve on the front - that would be dangerous. Recommend that you use Carbotech AX6 pads front and back. They have excellent cold bite for city driving and get better as they heat up. My current set up is Toyota solid front, 240SX rear, 280Z 8.5 in booster, 79 280ZX MC and Carbotech AX6 pads. With the Carbotech pads, 280Z booster and 15/16 MC my brakes are like stock.

If you had the Holley manual you would know that Holley sells a clear sight glass that allows visual setting of the floats. No wonder why you are having a hard time with the carb Download the Holley pdf for your carb and read it!

Do you know about the clear site glass on the fuel bowel for adjusting float level?

Again checking out the ignition system requires a methodical component by component approach. Make a list of every ignition component and verify condition and function. Do you have a spark at each plug wire? One side of the carb not working? Do you have a manual for the engine? If not get one .

I had the same experience with my first 72 240Z (father and son project). The PO basically hot wired everything to get the car to run and drive. Spent weeks rewiring his mistakes. MSA has new fuse blocks. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic10a03 Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Useful Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

Could you post some clear sharp pictures of: Carb fuel and vacuum connections Ignition wiring Wiring at fuel pump. Also, how is the fuel pump wired? Off ignition? After market relay? Was the stock green fuel pump wire used (green wire is above the passenger kick panel and terminates in a taped bundle next to the fuel tank)? Recommend using the green wire with a Painless fuel pump relay for simplicity and maximizing voltage at the fuel pump.

Sounds like you need to make a detailed checklist for each system (ign and fuel) and then rule out each component. For example: Fuel System: Fuel pump has 12 volts Fuel pump grounded Fuel pump works Fuel lines clear Fuel filter clean / unobstructed Holley recommended fuel pressure Floats set per Holley manual Carb CFM correct for your engine Carb mechanical linkages set correctly Correct carb vacuum port connections for your engine Is there an oil pressure safety switch installed that turns off power to the fuel pump if the engine quits? etc etc etc Pencil and paper are tools too!

Volkswagen? 240Z? 300ZX? Sherman Tank? Pacer? Yugo? Make model and year of your car? Do you have a factory service manual (FSM)? Do you have an electrical schematic? Download from this site or from Xenon.

At idle what is the PSI? At around 2000 rpm what is the psi?