Miles

Could be an issue. Also, fuel pressure. I assume that you have a fuel pressure gauge installed in-line near the carb? The Holley manual will specify optimum fuel pressure.

You mentioned rebuilding the Holley carb. Did you check the float level? Easy to do on a Holley. See the Holley manual.

Leave the T/C rod bushings stock rubber. The T/C rod can snap under load with hard bushings such as aluminum or polyurethane. There are pictures on Hybridz. All of my suspension bushings are polyurethane except for the rubber T/C bushings. Ride is razer sharp, but not harsh

Same here. Let us know if you find a solution.

I Have swaped 240z push rods into after market clutch MCs so they connect to the clutch pedal to avoid modifying the push rod. When I replaced my 240z booster with a 280z booster there was a problem with the brake pedal clevis attaching to the brake pedal so I swapped the push rods.

Excellent Would it have been possible to swap the z car brake pedal booster push rod into the Toyota booster? I was able to swap push rods between 240z and 280z boosters.

Arizona Z Cars is now selling a 280zx 15/16 brake MC. Installed one a year ago. No problems.

Also interested in seeing how this works out. Pictures please.

Here is another possible solution: Remflex graphite exhaust gasket p/n 2004 fits SBC 350 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-2004?cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-brands-_-keyword&gclid=CjwKCAjwwo7cBRBwEiwAMEoXPO0p6x0IaE3z78g6S_WaqfsQ62XlYavgtN0P7ds9oKQ2nkgcYqvh4xoCzkYQAvD_BwE

Fit what? Always provide the make, model, year and any modifications for your car when asking questions. Welcome. The answers to your questions will be found in the various forums. Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

1972 240 SBC 350 Front 180lb/in. Rear 200lb/in. All poly suspension bushings and Tokico shocks. Comfortable ride: Ride is stiff, but not harsh. Not like a skate board.

If you are new to SU carbs you need to purchase the video "Just SUs" from Ztherapy. Link: http://www.ztherapy.com/ On the left side of the web page under products click on Videos and then on "Just SUs". The video explains theory, repair and tuning of SU carbs. You will not regret buying this video. Watch the video several times. Ztherapy also sells parts for the SU carb.

Don't waste your time and money on an Edlebrock. Replace the Edelbrock with a Holly Street Avenger: Amazing off-idle throttle response compared to the Edelbrock. Excellent response from idle to full throttle. Easy to set up vacuum secondaries with simple spring replacement. Visual float setting with carb installed. My 240Z: SBC 350 I replaced the Edelbrock with a 570 CFM Holley Street Avenger carb approx eight years ago. The only modification I made was to add (simple) stiffer springs in the vacuum secondary control module to delay onset of the secondaries opening. Holley 570 Instructions.pdf

"The spacers I got from T3 that are marked 240 are .780". I may have gotten a set of the 260/280 spacers from a batch that was marked wrong." This has happened to other HybridZ members who bought the T3 spacers.

Topic has been covered many times here. Answers are in the FAQ brake section and in the brake forum. There are many great write--ups on the Toyota swap on the web. Google "240z Toyota brake swap" etc etc. There are issues with this swap. Research is best.

Check out Rebello Racing. They can take your engine and build it any way you want. http://www.rebelloracing.com/

Welcome. The answers to your questions will be found in the various forums. Suggestions: Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan and cost out every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. If you are unfamiliar with SU carbs, go to Ztherapy and buy the video "Just SUs". Recommend that you drive your car stock for awhile. Do basic maintenance: brakes, suspension, electrical etc. so you have a ready to drive platform when you finish the engine upgardes. You will be amazed by the improvement in performance by installing new stiffer shocks/springs, poly urethane bushings all around etc. You will learn a lot about auto mechanics and how the Z car functions as well. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

It comes down to your vision of how the car will be built and used. Built two 240Z 350 SBC projects with 1989 Camaro WC T5 transmissions. First 240Z was built in 2001 for my teenage son. Car is still on the road. Second car built nine years ago. Daily driver. No problems. Also, the T5 fits well in the car with the shifter close to the stock position. Suggest that you spend a few weeks reviewing HybridZ threads on transmissions and purchase the JTR 240Z V8 installation manual. Many answers there.

Go to the Ztherapy web site. Open the Videos link and buy the video ZTV09 "just SUs" http://www.ztherapy.com/ The video explains how SU carbs work and how to repair and tune them properly. You must understand how SU carbs work in order to troubleshoot and tune them. Watch the video several times until you understand how the SU works and the tuning procedures. Also, there are dozens of "How To" tune/repair SU carbs write ups on the internet. Study the video. All of the answers are there.

I do have a question. I have searched this site and not found the full answer. There are three fuel lines coming from the rear of the car. I believe the smaller one is a vent line from the tank, and the other two feed fuel and then return what is not needed (as FI systems like to do). To clean up the engine compartment a little more, I am thinking of eliminating one of those lines. My engine will mount a carb--a new, still-in-the-box Holley 650 that came with the car, so I won't need the return. If that's a bad idea, please tell me. And could I vent the tank back in the rear and bring only a single line to the engine compartment? That would really tidy things up. Is that done? For a carbed engine all you need is the fuel line. Trace the return and vent lines back to the gas tank and mark the tubes that they connect to. Any tubes not used on the gas tank will have to be brazed or welded closed. You can also eliminate the vent tank and all of the hose connections to the gas tank. If you eliminate the vent tank, you will need to drill a 3/32" dia hole in the gas cap to vent the gas tank as it empties out. There are several threads on this throughout the forum. Keep at least one of the vent tubes on top of the tank bulge and run a hose to the gas filler hose nipple. This allows air to escape while filling the tank to the top of the bulge. Attached are pictures of my 240Z fuel Lines. I haven't had any heat related problems, but I did run the fuel line the electrical harness through thermal protective sleeves on the passenger side near the headers. Since you will have to drop the tank to modify the various hose connections, you might as well install a new fuel gauge sending unit.

Note 280Z wire color for the oil pressure safety switch: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110528-jtr-bookwiring-issues/ Per JTR pg 13-2: "If you are using the HEI distributor, the easiest way to wire the fuel pump for cranking conditions is to connect the Green-White (240Z) or black-blue (260Z/280z) wire to the fuel pump wiring."

Suggest that you make a wire list such as in the attached example. The wire list is for a 72 240Z. Confirm your 280Z wiring functions. If you are unfamiliar with the ignition/starter wire functions, test each wire with a volt meter while turning the ignition switch to each position on the switch. Note that the green-white wire was originally wired to the ballast resister on the 240Z. Check if this applies to the 280Z. This wire provided direct 12v to the distributor when the starter activated. Attach this wire to the output side of the oil pressure safety switch to run the fuel pump during cranking. This wire energizes at the beginning of the START position on the ignition switch and turns off when the key is released. If you test it with a volt meter, you will see that it energizes just before the starter begins to crank and de-energizes when the key is released to the ignition position of the switch. This is useful to energize the fuel pump while cranking and to fill the fill the fuel system when the car has sat for some time on carbed engines. The diagram in the JTR manual (7th ed) incorrectly shows connecting a jumper wire (black-yellow) from the starter S terminal to the output side of the safety switch. Do not attach the starter wire (black-yellow) to the OUTPUT side of the oil pressure safety switch. If you do, the starter will continue to crank once the oil pressure pressure safety switch closes. JTR warns of this in section 13-2 of the manual. I tested the oil pressure safety switch before installing the engine. It closes almost instantly when the oil pump starts turning. No problems after nine years. To avoid burning/straining/overloading the switch wire the output to a fuel pump relay. No problems after nine years. 240z Wiring Tag Numbers Table.xls

With the stock temperature gauge you have to use the original stock temp sensor with an adapter that screws into the manifold. If you use a temp sensor from a different car, the temp gauge will not read correctly. Same with the oil pressure sensor. MSA and JTR both sell the temp sensor adapter. MSA sells the temp and oil pressure sensors. So just buy everything from MSA. The plumbing for the oil pressure sensor and safety switch is all 1/8 in. NPT you can get at the local hardware store. My 240Z did not have a fuel pump relay, so I installed a Painless fuel pump relay kit and ran the safety switch to the trigger side of the relay. On the 240Z there is an unused green fuel pump wire above the passenger kick panel. The wire was intended for an electric fuel pump and terminates near the gas tank. Your 280Z may already be wired for an electric fuel pump. If not, Nissan may have also installed the green wire in the 280Zs as well. Note that the JTR manual is a little confusing on how to wire the oil pressure safety switch. PM me if you have questions.

Note that "A" is next to the return outlet. The answer is "A" because it is in the stream of water returning to the radiator from both sides of the engine. Also, it appears that you have already installed the temp sender in the correct location. The oil pressure sensor installs next to the distributor.

Year? 240Z 260Z? Carb? EFI? Soot or oil on plugs?