Miles

Do you run any proportioning valve at all? Yes. I installed a Wilwood proportioning valve only because I was experimenting with different caliper and pad configurations. I now leave it wide open. I would remove it, but I am too lazy to crawl under the car. A proportioning valve reduces pressure to the rear brakes. All of these brake swaps are biased towards the front not rear (60%F 40%R to 70%F 30%R) so a proportioning valve makes no sense UNLESS you plan on racing with aggressive pads on the rear which you "dial-in" while racing. You have a 280Z with the larger 8.5in booster which will help with the stiffness caused by the larger bore 15/16 MC. Go with the Carbotech AX6 pads and you should be ok. Don't waste your money on Hawk or Porterfield street pads - they do not perform well in traffic. See attached brake bias data: BRAKE BIAS CALC INPUT and RESULTS.docx

Should have researched this more. Lots of info in the brake section. Stock brakes are fine. The Toyota vented/solid front and Maxima/240SX rear is biased towards the front 60% front and 40 % rear. This is based on my own calculations and actually experimenting with the following: Stock front 240SX rear Stock front Maxima rear Solid Toyota Stock rear Vented Toyota stock rear Vented Toyota 240SX Is there a fix? No, but people have tried putting more aggressive pads on the rear to achieve better front - rear balance. Probably ok for racing. No, you can't put a proportioning valve on the front - that would be dangerous. Recommend that you use Carbotech AX6 pads front and back. They have excellent cold bite for city driving and get better as they heat up. My current set up is Toyota solid front, 240SX rear, 280Z 8.5 in booster, 79 280ZX MC and Carbotech AX6 pads. With the Carbotech pads, 280Z booster and 15/16 MC my brakes are like stock.

If you had the Holley manual you would know that Holley sells a clear sight glass that allows visual setting of the floats. No wonder why you are having a hard time with the carb Download the Holley pdf for your carb and read it!

Do you know about the clear site glass on the fuel bowel for adjusting float level?

Again checking out the ignition system requires a methodical component by component approach. Make a list of every ignition component and verify condition and function. Do you have a spark at each plug wire? One side of the carb not working? Do you have a manual for the engine? If not get one .

I had the same experience with my first 72 240Z (father and son project). The PO basically hot wired everything to get the car to run and drive. Spent weeks rewiring his mistakes. MSA has new fuse blocks. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic10a03 Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Useful Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

Could you post some clear sharp pictures of: Carb fuel and vacuum connections Ignition wiring Wiring at fuel pump. Also, how is the fuel pump wired? Off ignition? After market relay? Was the stock green fuel pump wire used (green wire is above the passenger kick panel and terminates in a taped bundle next to the fuel tank)? Recommend using the green wire with a Painless fuel pump relay for simplicity and maximizing voltage at the fuel pump.

Sounds like you need to make a detailed checklist for each system (ign and fuel) and then rule out each component. For example: Fuel System: Fuel pump has 12 volts Fuel pump grounded Fuel pump works Fuel lines clear Fuel filter clean / unobstructed Holley recommended fuel pressure Floats set per Holley manual Carb CFM correct for your engine Carb mechanical linkages set correctly Correct carb vacuum port connections for your engine Is there an oil pressure safety switch installed that turns off power to the fuel pump if the engine quits? etc etc etc Pencil and paper are tools too!

Volkswagen? 240Z? 300ZX? Sherman Tank? Pacer? Yugo? Make model and year of your car? Do you have a factory service manual (FSM)? Do you have an electrical schematic? Download from this site or from Xenon.

At idle what is the PSI? At around 2000 rpm what is the psi?

Could be an issue. Also, fuel pressure. I assume that you have a fuel pressure gauge installed in-line near the carb? The Holley manual will specify optimum fuel pressure.

You mentioned rebuilding the Holley carb. Did you check the float level? Easy to do on a Holley. See the Holley manual.

Leave the T/C rod bushings stock rubber. The T/C rod can snap under load with hard bushings such as aluminum or polyurethane. There are pictures on Hybridz. All of my suspension bushings are polyurethane except for the rubber T/C bushings. Ride is razer sharp, but not harsh

Same here. Let us know if you find a solution.

I Have swaped 240z push rods into after market clutch MCs so they connect to the clutch pedal to avoid modifying the push rod. When I replaced my 240z booster with a 280z booster there was a problem with the brake pedal clevis attaching to the brake pedal so I swapped the push rods.

Excellent Would it have been possible to swap the z car brake pedal booster push rod into the Toyota booster? I was able to swap push rods between 240z and 280z boosters.

Arizona Z Cars is now selling a 280zx 15/16 brake MC. Installed one a year ago. No problems.

Also interested in seeing how this works out. Pictures please.

Here is another possible solution: Remflex graphite exhaust gasket p/n 2004 fits SBC 350 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfl-2004?cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-brands-_-keyword&gclid=CjwKCAjwwo7cBRBwEiwAMEoXPO0p6x0IaE3z78g6S_WaqfsQ62XlYavgtN0P7ds9oKQ2nkgcYqvh4xoCzkYQAvD_BwE

Fit what? Always provide the make, model, year and any modifications for your car when asking questions. Welcome. The answers to your questions will be found in the various forums. Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

1972 240 SBC 350 Front 180lb/in. Rear 200lb/in. All poly suspension bushings and Tokico shocks. Comfortable ride: Ride is stiff, but not harsh. Not like a skate board.

If you are new to SU carbs you need to purchase the video "Just SUs" from Ztherapy. Link: http://www.ztherapy.com/ On the left side of the web page under products click on Videos and then on "Just SUs". The video explains theory, repair and tuning of SU carbs. You will not regret buying this video. Watch the video several times. Ztherapy also sells parts for the SU carb.

Don't waste your time and money on an Edlebrock. Replace the Edelbrock with a Holly Street Avenger: Amazing off-idle throttle response compared to the Edelbrock. Excellent response from idle to full throttle. Easy to set up vacuum secondaries with simple spring replacement. Visual float setting with carb installed. My 240Z: SBC 350 I replaced the Edelbrock with a 570 CFM Holley Street Avenger carb approx eight years ago. The only modification I made was to add (simple) stiffer springs in the vacuum secondary control module to delay onset of the secondaries opening. Holley 570 Instructions.pdf

"The spacers I got from T3 that are marked 240 are .780". I may have gotten a set of the 260/280 spacers from a batch that was marked wrong." This has happened to other HybridZ members who bought the T3 spacers.