Miles

Budget Build You can build a reliable daily driver following the JTR V8 conversion manual for not a lot of money. Basic daily driver swap: Stock SBC engine. JTR, MSA and John's Cars sell swap kits. Each has good and bad points. Do a search before you buy. Keep stock R180 differential Camaro WC T5 five speed transmission. Speedometer drive gear has to be changed to match the differential ratio if you keep the stock speedometer. Ref JTR Rebuild stock brake system and install braided SS brake hoses. Suggest Carbotech AX6 pads and shoes. Stock brakes are fine - see brake FAQs Replace shocks/struts e.g., Tokico Replace stock suspension bushings with polyurethane bushings. Replace sagging springs with stiffer springs that maintain stock ride height. Front 180lb/in Rear 200lb/in to 280lb/in. Install an aluminum radiator. Stock mechanical fan is ok. Do the basic things to make the car safe and reliable and then drive it. Read the JTR manual at least five times and study Hybridz V8 swaps until your eyeballs fall out. Start with an unmolested Z car with minimum rust.

Most of the information you seek can be found in Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual from Jags that Run and by searching the HybridZ forums. Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Buy the Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual from Jags that Run ( see link below). Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.ztherapy.com/ http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

Built two daily drivers as follows: Pictures: 1972 240Z Hybrid V8 Built 2009 - 2010 Engine and Drivetrain 350 SBC Goodwrench crate engine rated 290HP Dyno: 240 RWHP 1989 Camaro T5 World Class transmission Datsun R200 3.54 differential Solid differential front mount MSA engine and transmission installation kit New Chequered Flag stainless steel stub axles New Nissan OEM wheel bearings Cooling Arizona Z Cars Radiator Volvo (1997) electric fan Brakes Front: 1979 Toyota 4x4 pickup S12+8 calipers with stock solid rotors Rear: 1989 240SX calipers with 1984 non-turbo 300ZX solid rotors Master Cylinder: 1979 280ZX 15/16 Booster: 1977 280Z SS braided brake flex lines Brake Pads: Carbotech AX6 Suspension and Steering Tokico Blue struts Arizona Z Car springs: Front 180lb/in. Rear 200lb/in. Energy Suspension poly urethane bushings Wheels: 15 x 7 American Racing Ansen Sprint Mags Tires: Toyo 205/50R-15 Proxes Urethane steering coupler Nissan OEM TC rod bushings Body Paint: 350Z Silver Alloy code K23 280Z Vented Hood All seals/gaskets replaced Electrical Headlights: H4 Headlight relay kit installed - no wires cut 100 amp alternator

Buy this book: https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/basic-auto-electricity-book/ Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30.html Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy. Buy the "Just SUs" video. Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.ztherapy.com/ http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

Try MSA: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20i

Why not just buy a 300ZX? Seems to meet your criteria. The S30 series (240Z, 260Z, 280Z) was designed as a sports car. It was expected to be light weight, simple and Spartan. There are some simple things you can do to make the car ride and perform better for not a lot of money: 1. Suspension: Stiffer springs e. g. 180 lb/in front 280 lb/in rear. Keep the stock ride height. Replace all of the factory bushings with polyurethane bushings Install better shocks e.g., Tokico blues 2. Interior: Install sound/heat attenuation materials: Dynamat/Be Cool mat and reflective thermal fiber mat Install the full carpet kit available from MSA (further reduces heat and sound) Upholster the door cards to reduce sound Install better seats Install a sound system 3. Brakes: Leave stock, but rebuild as needed and use Carbotech AX6 brake pads and shoes. 4. Exterior: Tint the windows 5. Electrical: Install the headlight relay kit designed by a HybridZ member (Dave) and sold at MSA. Saves the headlight switch and allows higher wattage bulbs in an H4 housing

Just go to a parts store and ask for heat riser flex tube of the correct diameter. Summit Racing probably sells the flex tube as well.

Look here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/reference.html EG Engine General.pdf

See picture from Factory Service Manual (FSM) Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy. Buy the "Just SUs" video. Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.ztherapy.com/ http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

++1 Fel-Pro. 9 years since build with no leaks!

Nobody is going to respond to this. Do the following: Read all of the new member FAQs as required by HybridZ rules. Nobody can diagnose your problem without knowing the year, make and model of the car. Also, state any modifications to the car. Spend some time searching HybridZ and then re-write your description of the problem. Use the edit function on your post and re-write it. Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your car. The FSM is available on HybridZ. Search before asking questions. Members respond better to informed questions.

Per JTR page 10-2, the 240z tach will not work with an HEI distributor. The 260z and 280Z tach will work with the addition of a 15k 1/2 watt resister and some wiring changes. The guts of the 260Z/280z tach have to be swapped into the 240Z tach housing because the 240Z/280Z tachs mount differently.

Yes. Those will work. When in doubt, call a tech at Summit Racing.

All you need is one oil fill hole and one breather hole. Many choices with one screw in cap and one breather. You need to keep at least one breather. Talk to a tech at Summit Racing for advice on the cover and gasket choices. For example: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-4144/overview/make/chevrolet Take your pick: https://www.summitracing.com/search/make/chevrolet/engine-size/5-7l-350/engine-family/chevy-small-block-gen-i?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=edelbrock valve covers

If you are not experienced with brake work there will be more challenges ahead for you doing this brake swap. In the interest of public safety and your own safety, I suggest that you consult with an experienced brake mechanic before going any further. Also, before you put the car on the road you should have a brake mechanic check the installation to make sure that the brake swap is safe.

Did the bleeders come with the calipers? If so they should work unless the seats are damaged. Where did you buy the calipers? Did the calipers come with parking brake brackets?

I made some notes on the picture you posted. The bleeder is pointing up as it should be. Check the brake hose and make sure that as the suspension moves the hose does not rub on the frame. It doesn't look like you have connected the parking brake cable to the caliper. Also, I don't see the parking brake bracket installed on the caliper. Suggest that once the hose and parking brake cable are connected that you place a floor jack under the control arm (below the strut) and move the suspension up and down slowly checking for the brake hose or parking bracket hitting the frame. As far as the bleeder leaking issue goes, check the internal bleeder mating surface in each caliper. If the mating surfaces are damaged or not machined correctly return both calipers and replace with a different brand. Re-manufactured and even new brake parts can be defective right out of the box. For example: Maxima Calipers full of rust inside. Caliper piston seals that leak the first time pressure is applied. Wilwood brake master cylinders that leaked internally. Wilwood master cylinder bleed screws that were deformed and wouldn't seal.

Another view of how a bleeder seals when tightened. Note tapered portion of bleeder screw and the tapered seat inside the bleeder passage. When the tapered part of the bleeder and the seat mate and are tightened the bleeder is sealed. If the mating surfaces are damaged, or dirty , the seat and bleeder screw will not seal.

The bleeder leaking and the position of the caliper are not related. Possible reasons a bleeder will leak after tightening it: Wrong bleeder (but you have the correct bleeder) Bleeder is damaged e.g., bent/smashed etc Bleeder and or caliper threads are damaged The seats are damaged or obstructed with dirt/metal/etc Bleeder is in the wrong hole. Post a clear sharp picture showing where the bleeder and brake line is installed on the caliper. You do not have to over tighten a bleeder. Just close it and snug it down easy.

Per Russell website you have the correct bleeder: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/import.shtml Is the bleeder leaking through the nipple or around the threads?

New California exhaust noise rules effective January 2019 https://www.sema.org/sema-enews/2019/02/fact-vs-fiction-explaining-californias-new-exhaust-noise-law https://bar.ca.gov/Consumer/Referee_Program/Vehicle_Exhaust_Noise_Level_Certification.html https://jalopnik.com/why-people-are-suddenly-freaking-out-over-californias-e-1831620651

Silvermine Toyota brake line

Note brake lines from Silvermine Motors:

I just measured the front flex line. It is 14 inches. I have relocated the rear hard lines so the flex lines are not in the stock location. You can use a coat hanger to mock up and estimate the length of the front and rear flex lines. After installing the flex lines move the suspension through the full range of motion and look for over stretch, kinking, rubbing etc of the flex lines. Flex line kits are available for the Toyota and Maxima/240SX swaps. I prefer generic A/N lines because they are cheaper than the swap kits plus I can get the parts from a local speed shop. Silvermine Motors might have the flex lines for the Toyota/Maxima swaps.

I'll check the length for the front Toyota calipers tomorrow. Look here: covers front Toyota and rear 249SX or Maxima brake lines.