Miles

Welcome I have used the T5 transmission in two 240Z SBC projects. No problems and the transmission fits easily in the car. The transmission is tilted 15 degrees towards the dirver's side, but is not a problem and only requires trimming the left side of the shifter hole. Shifter location is close to stock. Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search Google: "240z LT1 swap" etc. Tons of data on 240Z V8 swaps on-line. Spend a lot of time planning and costing the project system by system before starting the build. Useful Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness. The owner is a HybridZ member who provides electrical upgrades and repair services. http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ http://www.classiczc...com/index.html/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

A few more ideas............................... https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/277140-driveshaft-bolts-help.html

Stop doing weird stuff to your car. Reminds me of aliens probing an abductee. You could try removing the front differential support which would allow the differential to droop. That might open up enough space to get a good bite on the bolt. Or you could place a wrench on the bolt, turn the driveshaft so the wrench is against the body, put pry bar in the U-joint and then turn the driveshaft with the pry bar. In an absolute worse case, you could pull the differential and driveshaft out as a unit and then remove the bolts.

R200 FSM r200 manual.pdf

Question has been answered many times. There are whole web pages dedicated to your question. Google "r200 swaps" etc. Search HybridZ and classiczcars.com Start here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm http://www.jasonparuta.com/?page_id=1507

The T5 is rotated 15 degrees towards the driver's side. Requires removing a small amount of sheet metal on the drivers side of the shifter hole. I also shortened to shifter. Once all of the trim is in place you don't notice the 15 degree tilt to the left. I used the MSA engine-trans swap kit so there may be some differences in shifter location with the JTR kit.

So if it is so hard to build a hot rod in Germany, how come there are so many of them?

Street rods in Germany.

Roll bar/cage etc That's far too extreme for a roadcar (and probably a pain to climb through). I was thinking of a half-cage behind the seats (like those Porsche sticks in their GT3/GT2 road cars), and maybe a bar to the front for some side-protection. I had a halo-bar in mind for the added safety, but actually backed off that plan since I'm not really planning to run a butt-naked interior (and don't know if I want to cut the dash to bits). So it's probably going to be closer to this than to this. Just something to hit your head on in a street car. Or you can wear a helmet on the street.

You seem to have several conflicting design approaches in mind. Asking for opinions will net you as many opinions as there are HybridZ members. Suggest you research HybridZ and Google for German Z car builds (many). This will help you scope the project according to German market, regulations, part availability and etc. In the end your project will be defined by: Local regulations Budget Skill level Project plan (suggest a "Build spread sheet" listing all costs and part numbers broken down by system such as engine, drive train, suspension, brakes etc)

More Darious

And then there is Darious

Check this out: Contact the OP "ezzzzzzz" and see how the 280zx calipers worked out.

Here is an option I looked at: Mustang rear calipers with parking brake. https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/stage-4-rear-big-brake-kit

VQ pioneer:

Given your constraints, and if I lived in Germany, my recommendation would be: Start with a rust free non-modified 240Z. Stock brakes are fine. Rebuild the entire brake system. If available use Carbotech AX6 pads and shoes. Replace all of the rubber suspension bushings with polyurethane Replace springs: Front 180 lb/in Rear 220lb/in. A Z car is low enough, so select springs that maintain stock ride height. Rebuild engine with modifications that meet local codes/rules. Rebuild/upgrade clutch components If allowed, consider a five speed transmission. Research first as there are pros and cons and several transmissions to select from. Upgrade tires and wheels per local codes. Recommend installing the headlight relay harness available from one our members on HybridZ. Your lights will be brighter and you can run higher wattage bulbs. The harness is also available from MSA Motor Sports Auto (MSA). This will give you a very comfortable daily driver that handles well under most driving conditions. Brakes: If you absolutely can't resist doing a "brake upgrade" install the Toyota 4x4 solid front calipers and stop there . The Toyota caliper is made by the same company that made the 240Z caliper so it might get a pass by your code guys.

How will the car be driven? Street only? Race/autocross? What are your constraints? Government regulations Experience Budget Parts availability Shop space What are the common 240Z engine swaps in Germany? Are there 240Z clubs in Germany? Clubs are good source of information Engine swaps, and parts swaps in general, tend to have a domino effect that adds complexity and cost.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129292-unsure-what-engine-to-chose-can-i-get-some-input/?tab=comments#comment-1207467

I recall others talking about installing a 280ZX braking system in a 240Z/280Z, but never heard back how it worked out. Hope you will take pictures and report back when you finish the swap. I wonder if there is room to squeeze in the larger 1979 280ZX booster. I am now using Carbotech AX6 pads on a Toyota - 240SX set up on my 240Z. The Carbotech AX6 pads have excellent cold bite and grab hard when hot. They are suitable for street and auto x.

The Maxima swap will not improve stopping performance. And you may end up having to install a larger diameter master cylinder. Do not remove the proportioning valve until you have estimated your front to rear balance/bias based on your final selection of calipers, rotors etc. The Maxima, and similar 240SX rear brake swaps, don't improve performance. Just less drum maintenance. Remember that a proportioning valve reduces pressure. All of the Toyota, 280ZX, 240SX and Maxima brake combinations end up with too much front brake bias i.e, the rear brakes can't keep up with the front brakes. So adding a proportioning valve to the rear brakes will not help unless you are experimenting with front and rear pad choices for off-street racing events.

Good point.

Do you run any proportioning valve at all? Yes. I installed a Wilwood proportioning valve only because I was experimenting with different caliper and pad configurations. I now leave it wide open. I would remove it, but I am too lazy to crawl under the car. A proportioning valve reduces pressure to the rear brakes. All of these brake swaps are biased towards the front not rear (60%F 40%R to 70%F 30%R) so a proportioning valve makes no sense UNLESS you plan on racing with aggressive pads on the rear which you "dial-in" while racing. You have a 280Z with the larger 8.5in booster which will help with the stiffness caused by the larger bore 15/16 MC. Go with the Carbotech AX6 pads and you should be ok. Don't waste your money on Hawk or Porterfield street pads - they do not perform well in traffic. See attached brake bias data: BRAKE BIAS CALC INPUT and RESULTS.docx