Miles

Used MSA headliners twice. No problems. Just do research and work methodically.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/ball&socket/index.htm

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC10/23-4190

Call the manufacturer.

Do you mean this?

You sure you bought 280zx rotors?

What is the diameter of the rotor you have? Measure it!

Contact MSA.

Looks like we can post new threads in the FAQ, but replying to the thread is not allowed. Someone should contact the OP and have him post his question in the brake section.

Seems to be an ongoing problem dating back to 2017

Same thread. Same problem. I was going to post this:

Some years Toyota S12 + 8 calipers (solid rotor application) were modified (wider slot) for vented rotors. The S12 + 8 caliper has two 43mm pistons and two 34mm pistons.

I see that a proportioning valve (PV) came up again.. It always seems to. 1. All of the Toyota swaps result in front bias (nominal 60% front - 40% rear). A proportioning valve reduces pressure to the rear brakes so adding a proportioning valve to the rear would make no sense. 2. Never install a proportioning valve on the front brakes. 4. Never add a proportioning valve to a brake system that has a stock PV installed. Many people who do these brake swaps are often disappointed with the results. Mostly because the brakes on your car were designed as a system by the manufacturer. That is, the calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, pads, shoes and proportioning valve all were selected to work together. When you change one component, you create a domino effect such that you then end up needing to change the MC because the pedal is too stiff or the pedal is too long and hits the floor or adding a larger diameter booster to deal with a stiff pedal etc. etc. In the end the brake system performance actually degrades. In the brake section there are many discussions about brake balance calculations. Suggest you study those threads. Again, if you feel strongly compelled to swap parts, leave the drums alone, and install the Toyota solid disk calipers on the front and run Carbotech pads and shoes. Rebuild the rest of the stock brake system. And then quit. You will notice a bit more front bias the first time you apply the brakes. Otherwise leave it stock and install Carbotech pads and shoes. If you are not sure if a modification will pass German law, ask an inspector. BTW: There are two styles of the vented Toyota calipers. One with four 43mm pistons and the other one has two 43mm pistons and two 34mm pistons (same caliper as the solid caliper, but the slot was machined wider for the vented rotor.

German laws have come up before when discussing Z car modifications. So we know, what do German laws allow you to do?

Many many many "how to" posts on gauges on HybridZ and Classiczcars.com. Search "gauges" or "autometer" or "Speedhut". There are complete write-ups on Hybridz and on the web.

Inspect the threads on the bleeder and in the caliper. Replacement bleeders are available.

Keep the brakes stock with SS braided brake lines and Carbotech pads. If you can't resist doing an "upgrade" then install SS braided brake lines and the Toyota 4x4 pickup solid rotor calipers with Carbotech pads and a 15/16 in. master cylinder. And then don't do anything else. If you do the Toyota caliper swap, use generic A/N SS braided brake lines with A/N to metric adaptors to connect to the caliper. This allows you to go to any speed shop and buy generic A/N lines and not have to special order custom brake lines. It also avoids having the re-bend the stock 240Z "S" shaped brake line that goes from the hose to the caliper.

The letter on the spacer has to match the letter stamped on the hub casting. Assuming that the casting is original, look around the hub casting (see picture). Once you have the correct spacer, assemble the spacers and bearings per the FSM for the year strut you have.

Fumes inside car have nothing to do with running rich. Replace the hatch seal and seals around tail lights. If you can find it, use an original Nissan hatch seal. The after market hatch seals don't fit well. MSA may have original Nissan hatch seals.

1. Better a bit too rich then too lean. 2. Once the SU carb is set up and the car is running ok, leave the carbs alone. 3. If you plan to rebuild the carbs use quality Z Therapy rebuild kits.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/47304-1972-float-adjustment/

WIth stock brakes, a 1 in. MC is expected to make the pedal hard to push. Replace the 1 in. MC with the stock 7/8 in. MC and your brakes will be fine.

1. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Should be available several places at HybridZ. It explains how to work on a Z car. 2. Follow the instructions in the FSM http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/2-write-ups-on-tuning-su-carbs.html This video is for British SU carbs, but basically the same procedure. Also, make sure that the needle moves freely in the seat as you move the float up and down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y059hdXvVwg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLD_7pNRfbk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOIFJEO7mTM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GRAcqDySog https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60Bj_2cZQnc