Miles

Same thread. Same problem. I was going to post this:

Some years Toyota S12 + 8 calipers (solid rotor application) were modified (wider slot) for vented rotors. The S12 + 8 caliper has two 43mm pistons and two 34mm pistons.

I see that a proportioning valve (PV) came up again.. It always seems to. 1. All of the Toyota swaps result in front bias (nominal 60% front - 40% rear). A proportioning valve reduces pressure to the rear brakes so adding a proportioning valve to the rear would make no sense. 2. Never install a proportioning valve on the front brakes. 4. Never add a proportioning valve to a brake system that has a stock PV installed. Many people who do these brake swaps are often disappointed with the results. Mostly because the brakes on your car were designed as a system by the manufacturer. That is, the calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, pads, shoes and proportioning valve all were selected to work together. When you change one component, you create a domino effect such that you then end up needing to change the MC because the pedal is too stiff or the pedal is too long and hits the floor or adding a larger diameter booster to deal with a stiff pedal etc. etc. In the end the brake system performance actually degrades. In the brake section there are many discussions about brake balance calculations. Suggest you study those threads. Again, if you feel strongly compelled to swap parts, leave the drums alone, and install the Toyota solid disk calipers on the front and run Carbotech pads and shoes. Rebuild the rest of the stock brake system. And then quit. You will notice a bit more front bias the first time you apply the brakes. Otherwise leave it stock and install Carbotech pads and shoes. If you are not sure if a modification will pass German law, ask an inspector. BTW: There are two styles of the vented Toyota calipers. One with four 43mm pistons and the other one has two 43mm pistons and two 34mm pistons (same caliper as the solid caliper, but the slot was machined wider for the vented rotor.

German laws have come up before when discussing Z car modifications. So we know, what do German laws allow you to do?

Many many many "how to" posts on gauges on HybridZ and Classiczcars.com. Search "gauges" or "autometer" or "Speedhut". There are complete write-ups on Hybridz and on the web.

Inspect the threads on the bleeder and in the caliper. Replacement bleeders are available.

Keep the brakes stock with SS braided brake lines and Carbotech pads. If you can't resist doing an "upgrade" then install SS braided brake lines and the Toyota 4x4 pickup solid rotor calipers with Carbotech pads and a 15/16 in. master cylinder. And then don't do anything else. If you do the Toyota caliper swap, use generic A/N SS braided brake lines with A/N to metric adaptors to connect to the caliper. This allows you to go to any speed shop and buy generic A/N lines and not have to special order custom brake lines. It also avoids having the re-bend the stock 240Z "S" shaped brake line that goes from the hose to the caliper.

The letter on the spacer has to match the letter stamped on the hub casting. Assuming that the casting is original, look around the hub casting (see picture). Once you have the correct spacer, assemble the spacers and bearings per the FSM for the year strut you have.

Fumes inside car have nothing to do with running rich. Replace the hatch seal and seals around tail lights. If you can find it, use an original Nissan hatch seal. The after market hatch seals don't fit well. MSA may have original Nissan hatch seals.

1. Better a bit too rich then too lean. 2. Once the SU carb is set up and the car is running ok, leave the carbs alone. 3. If you plan to rebuild the carbs use quality Z Therapy rebuild kits.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/47304-1972-float-adjustment/

WIth stock brakes, a 1 in. MC is expected to make the pedal hard to push. Replace the 1 in. MC with the stock 7/8 in. MC and your brakes will be fine.

1. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). Should be available several places at HybridZ. It explains how to work on a Z car. 2. Follow the instructions in the FSM http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/2-write-ups-on-tuning-su-carbs.html This video is for British SU carbs, but basically the same procedure. Also, make sure that the needle moves freely in the seat as you move the float up and down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y059hdXvVwg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLD_7pNRfbk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOIFJEO7mTM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GRAcqDySog https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60Bj_2cZQnc

Note that the tank has a bulge on top. When the tank is filled air becomes trapped in that bulge if there is no way for it to escape. If the air can't escape then the gas tank will not be able to be filled all the way. Think of inverting a glass and submerging it in a sink filled with water. The air stays trapped in the glass. Also note that gasoline expands when it gets hot in the summer. In the early 70s the US required that automakers had to capture hydrocarbon fumes/vapors escaping the fuel system. The tank and all of those hoses make up a vapor recovery system. The purpose of the vapor tank and those hoses was to capture the fumes and pass them through a carbon filter and suck them back into the engine to be burned (see your FSM). It also serves as a vapor expansion tank. It is designed as a closed system. The stock gas cap is not vented. The vapor tank collects gas vapor and serves as an expansion tank. As the gas in the tank expands it pushes the fumes/air into the vapor tank. So the reason you connect hose 8 to the filler pipe is so air trapped in the top bulge has somewhere to go as the tank is filled and/or gets pushed out by expanding gas on a hot day. I used fuel injection hose to connect the tank bulge to the filler pipe. So when filling the tank or gas expands on a hot day where will that air go when the vapor tanks is removed? The air wiil escape through a 1/16in to 3/32in drill hole ("breather hole") you make in the gas cap. Do not top off your tank after removing the hoses and the vapor tank because on a hot day gas will expand and will be pushed up into the filler pipe and escape around the gas cap and through the small "breather" hole. Just fill until the hose shuts off. Note that the vacuum switch on the inner fender probably is corroded and plugged up. Every one of those I inspected was completely plugged. If you do remove the hoses, you will have to weld or braze all of the tubes on the gas tank closed. Do not just plug the tubes. Think collision. Of course if you plan on getting the engine swap certified by the California DMV you can't make any of these changes. Recommend that you search the forums for more information before you do any modifications. There are many many posts on this exact subject.

What year Z would help. You will need to keep line 8 or line 7 and route it to where line 5 attaches to the filler neck in the picture below. Look at the picture and you will see why you need to keep the line in addition to venting the tank on hot days.

Headlight relay harness built by a HybridZ member (HLS30-08077) and sold by MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4651 Or buy direct from Dave (HLS30-08077): https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/ Works!

1. What year is your Z? 2. Did you check the fuse panel? 3. Typically, the problem you have is caused by the turn signal and/or the light switch. Many "how to" posts on switch repair here and on the internet. 4. Information: http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/services/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34330-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining/ Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Last weekend I got some needles and the complete bottom seat assemly off a 72 240 that was completely rusted in rotted out including the carbs or at least they looked pretty beat. I have yet to take my carbs out and swap the needles and seats but at least now I have something to try. And now you got me thinking about the Pistons. Google search results: https://www.google.com/search?biw=1536&bih=741&ei=GB5lWof6K8LYjwPRqZmACg&q=240z+su+carb+lean+backfire&oq=240z+su+carb+lean+backfire&gs_l=psy-ab.12...48161.51822.0.54621.8.8.0.0.0.0.107.703.7j1.8.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.6.545...33i21k1j33i160k1.0.TrwnWHR2y0U

Possible mismatch of clutch parts e.g., 240z - 280Z throughout bearing components. Do a Google search or HybridZ and search for 280Z transmission swaps. Also, this issue has come up before so there should be some info here or at one of the other Z blogs. Check the FSM for a 240Z and 280Z transmission.

With the engine off, place firm pressure on the brake pedal and hold that pressure. While holding pressure on the brake pedal start the car and post what your foot does.

The mounting hole pattern on the 240Z and 280Z are different. The horizontal spacing of the mounting studs is wider for the 280Z so I had to re-drill the mounting holes in the fire wall. It has been eight years since I was working this issue, but I recall the that the 280Z and 280ZX bolt spacing is the same. If you have a 76 280Z then your booster is most likely 8.5 inch diameter. And you should already have an 8.5 inch booster installed. Time to measure the booster you have and also measure the space between the throttle bracket and the clutch slave. That will determine what diameter booster you can use. If you have an automatic z then the clutch slave is no factor and you could install the 10 inch 280ZX booster.

The 75 - 78 280Z came with a 8.5 inch booster which is what I am using on my 72 240Z with 15/16 inch. The larger 8.5 inch 280Z booster made the pedal less stiff. I would like to have used the larger 10 inch 280ZX booster, but there was no room between the throttle bracket and the clutch slave. See pictures. The space between the throttle bracket and the clutch slave is the limiting factor. The 280Z has more space between the throttle bracket and the clutch slave so a 79 280ZX booster might fit. I recall that the 280ZX booster is 10 inch diameter. The 80 -83 280ZX booster uses a horizontal MC mounting flange whereas the 240Z, 280Z and 1979 280ZX use a vertical mounting flange. I had many Hybridz links on booster swaps, but the links are now dead. Note that there were changes in mounting bolt patterns and the clevis that connects to the clutch pedal. I swapped the push rod and clevis from the 72 booster to the 280Z booster so everything matched.