Miles

Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read all of the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Right of passage for Z owners.

Yes check them. Also, check that the brake switch connector hasn't come loose and check all of the wire harness connectors that connect to the TS switch. Glad this is starting to work out for you.

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Here is an adjustable flasher designed specifically for LEDs: hotronicsproducts.com/product_info.php?products_id=5&osCsid=fa310277fd5842b79683c8a4cb880e14#.VUK4DpPUfYg

I am real anal about understanding why things work or don't work. If it were my car I would want to know why the parts were not fitting rather than grinding parts to make them work. You may be able to get by with grinding the caliper, but check for the rotor rubbing on the caliper under load and when cornering. Also, do you want to grind future replacement calipers? Other variables: Are the bearing races in the hubs installed correctly - are they seated? Are the hubs seated properly on the spindles? And, most likely the problem, is the spacer machined to the correct thickness to center the rotor in the caliper? Look at the dimensional stack up of all of the parts. How far does the caliper have to move to center the rotor? Something is off.

There are on-line services that. for a fee, will provide registration history and other information such as if the car has been salvaged etc. The newer the car the more data is available. For example: https://www.google.com/search?q=check+registration+history+of+car&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=ubuntu&channel=fs&gws_rd=ssl

Here is a good write up on LED bulb replacement in 280Z: http://www.nearwood.net/category/cars/ Scroll down to about 1/3 of the page.

Somewhere I recall seeing an electronic flasher that had an adjustable flash rate for LED lights.

Suggestions when repairing the turn signal switch: There are lots of small parts, especially that small ball bearing, that can flip out and into a black hole. I lay a white towel down on the work surface to contain the small parts if dropped. A blob of grease will hold the ball bearing in-place during reassembly A small fine file or a cardboard fingernail file works to clean the contacts. Sometimes the contacts become bent and need to be adjusted so they make full contact. Subtle bending is all that is required. Suggest that you buy, and repair, an extra set of turn signal and headlight switches. You can use the repaired switches as a ready replacement and/or when trouble shooting light problems. Note: The turn signal switch also switches the brake lights off/on when signaling and can cause brake light issues in addition to turn signal problems.

Yes. I got mine at Oreilly autoparts

Your are close. Replace the old analog flasher with an electronic flasher when using LED bulbs. It will connect to the same wire your existing flasher uses, but the electronic flasher has a pigtail for a ground. This may be of interest: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122167-riddle-me-this-72-turn-signal-woes/

Most likely it is the turn signal switch. The contacts either become corroded or they become bent and no longer make contact. It is repairable. There are some tutorials here and on other Z websites. I may still have one that I can post. Covered extensively. Search hybridZ "turn signal" "turn signal repair" etc Google: 240Z turn signal repair. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/34330-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining/

Setting up suspension is not like choosing between corn or peas for dinner. You are going to have to do some reading. Search Google and HybridZ using terms like: "spring rates handling" "spring rates over steer" "spring rates under steer" "spring rates racing" "spring rates autocross" etc etc. For example: https://www.google.com/search?q=%22spring+rates+autocross%22+&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=ubuntu&channel=fs&gws_rd=ssl Go to Autocross events and talk to the drivers.

OOPS! I was still asleep. Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder.

Open the bleeder on the clutch slave and let gravity do its thing. Just keep the tank on the MC topped off. Takes about 10 -15 minutes.

Is there some reason that you can not take a picture of the caliper mounted on the car that shows specifically the rotor contacting the caliper? Otherwise this is just a guessing game. The attached picture shows a S12W Toyota caliper and 300ZX rotor installed on a Z. Does your caliper and rotor look like the picture?

Pictures of where the rotor is rubbing on the caliper would be helpful.

The speedo cable was attached to the Saginaw 4 speed, but the engine, transmission and differential had been blown up by the PO. So I don't know if it worked, but I wanted a five speed manual so I went with the T5. Also, the Saginaw puts the shifter too close to the dash whereas the T5 comes up in the stock shifter hole more like stock. The T5 does require removing a small amount sheet metal on the left side of the shifter hole to clear the shifter. The T5 is really nice on the freeway. I can post pictures of the installation. I also used a stock T5 shifter that I shortened. With some creative work on the center consul and shifter boot the shifter looks stock and you can not tell that it is offset to the left due to the tilted T5. If you haven't already don so, buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book on how to install a Chevy engine in a Z car. The book covers everything: engine, transmission choices, cooling, electrical, brakes, suspension etc. JTR also sells some of the parts you need for the conversion. One draw back for the T5 is it is not really designed for gear banging with a lot of horse power. Although it can be modified for high power applications, I consider it better suited for a daily driver.

The bell housing used for the The WC T5 transmission clocks the transmission 15 degrees to the left. The shifter is tilted to the right to compensate for the left clocking of the transmission. In a Camaro, this allows the shifter to be vertical. The T5 will mate to other Chevy bell housings, but then the rear mount will not be parallel to the ground i.e. a non T5 bell housing will clock the transmission to the right which also clocks the rear mount to the right. So you would need to fabricate an angled rear mount to allow mounting to a horizontal ross member. It has been done here by HybridZ members in the past. Search in the Driveline forum. My first v8 240Z came with a broken SBC 350 mated to a corvette bell housing and Saginaw 4 speed transmission which I replaced with a new engine, T5 bell housing and WC T5 transmission. I had considered not using the T5 bell housing, but rejected the idea because I didn't want to make a custom angled rear trans mount and it seemed to me that filling/checking the fluid would be problematic considering that the fill plug would be pointing at the ground. Here is some additional information about T5 transmissions and bell housings: http://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/bell-housing-differences.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/7587-bell-housing-the-same-for-t-5-and-saginaw/?hl=%2Bcamaro+%2Bbell+%2Bhousing+%2Btilted&do=findComment&comment=55063 Speedometer drive gear: If you are using the stock speedometer you will need to match the T5 speedometer drive gear to the differential ratio used. Jags that run sell the drive gears for T5 transmissions. If you have the JTR book there is a table that tells you which drive gear to use.

loy Can you post some pictures of the calipers, bracket and parking brake connection. Also, the caliper fitment inside the wheel. Thanks

Yes, " = inches Or if you prefer metric, +0.53'' = 13.456 millimeters

Also, check your local county laws for working on car in your home garage. My neighbor threatened to file a complaint because I was building a car in my garage and was making too much noise. I checked my county laws about noise and found out that not only can you be cited for noise but it was also illegal for anyone to perform "auto shop" work in a home garage. The law stipulated that the only allowed car maintenance is washing, cleaning, tire change or similar basic car related activities. I believe the laws are designed to prevent people from starting business in their garage. On the noise issue, the decision to cite someone is based on the complainer's subjective level of annoyance. California periodically threatens to get all old cars off the roads. There was a HybridZ thread on this issue a few years ago. On another topic, with the water situation in California we now have water Nazis who patrol the neighborhood leaving notes threatening to turn in water wasters. So I now wash my Z in the backyard away from prying eyes. The grass seems to like the water too.

Hope he is not a retired blood splatter expert. Have fun and keep us posted on your progress.

Beware of advertisements for so called rebuilt 240Z/280Z steering racks because the original parts needed for a rebuild have been NLA for years. Search the web as you might get lucky and find a new rack someone has been hanging onto.