Miles

Problem solved I removed the clutch stop bracket on the floor. While pushing the clutch it came to me that it was engaging just as it hit the pedal stop on the floor. So I used a Dremmel and cut the stop off and now the clutch is fully disengaging. Followup search of the web shows that this is a common problem when altering stock clutches. Now I can feel clutch arm fully move at about the point where the bracket used to be. No more grinding.

72 240Z 350 SBC T5 Camaro transmision The Tilton 7/8 clutch master cylinder I installed six years ago failed so I replaced it with a Wilwood Compact Clutch Master Cylinder No: 260-10374. I replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing and clutch slave at the same time that I Installed the Wilwood MC. The throw on both MCs is 1.1 to 1.2 inches. The Wilwood MC is bled and firm, but it is not giving enough throw to completely disengage the clutch. Anyone have experience with the Wilwood Compact Clutch Master Cylinder? Given that the diameter and throw is almost identical to the Tilton MC, the Wilwood MC should work.

The only thing you will notice is that the car will handle better. Do the whole car at once. And yes, use rubber on the TC rods.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/48076-rack-and-pinion-u-bolt-clamp-71z/

80K miles is like new! All I have done with R200 differentials that I bought at a wrecking yard, was to replace the oil seals for the side shafts and pinion. Very easy to do. At the same time I replaced the cover gasket. Seals and gaskets are available at Motor Sports Auto (MSA) and/or Black Dragon. Napa may even have them. If you are new to Z cars: Suggestions: Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Her are my numbers: Stock front - 240SX rear 65% : 35% I tried this combination and had to reduce pressure to the rear brakes with a proportioning valve. Toyota Solid Front - 240SX rear 66% : 34% Toyota Vented Front - 240SX rear 70% : 30% Many other numbers like these in the brake forum.

Solved: The T5 4th gear synchonizer assembly hub keys broke and fell out. The transmission shop I bought the rebuilt T5 from six years ago replaced the synchonizer hub and keys at no charge.

I have done the following so called brake upgrades to get a real world idea of how effective they are and what the unintended consequences are for each brake swap: Toyota solid rotor front with stock drums. Basically like stock stopping performance, but less fade in panic stops. The stock 7/8 MC allowed too much pedal travel so I installed a 79 280ZX 15/16 MC. Pedal then became stiff and required more effort which could have been offset by installing an 8 inch diameter 280Z booster (more on that later). Toyota vented front using Modern Motors kit with stock drums. Same as above only vented and more weight. Toyota vented front and Modern Motor Sports 280ZX rear kit. No better stopping than stock. Calculated brake bias was 70% front and 30% rear. After about four years the rear brakes started overheating. A long story short, I discovered that the flanges (where the wheel bolts to) on the new OEM Nissan stub axles I had installed with the 280ZX rear brake kit had become warped. The thin soft flanges can become warped easily just bumping into things. For drum brakes having warped stub axle flanges isn't a big deal, but for disk brakes it can cause the calipers to rub on the rotors causing overheating. Finding the problem surfaced when I checked the flange run out with a dial indicator. New OEM stub axles are NLA so I replace the warped stub axles with steel alloy units from Chequered Flag Racing. Brakes are no longer overheating. Toyota vented front with Maxima rear calipers. Much worse that the 240ZX rear set up. The rotors used with the Maxima calipers are smaller that the 300ZX rotors used on the 240ZX so there is less brake torque. At some point the 280ZX MC failed and was NLA so I installed the Wilwood 1 inch MC and a 280Z 8 inch booster to offset the pedal stiffness anticipated with using a 1 inch MC. After all that, my current set up is Toyota solid front with 280ZX rear, 1 inch Wilwood MC, 280Z 8 inch booster and Axis Ultimate brake pads. The brakes work well for a daily driver. The brake pedal feel is a bit soft the first 1 inch of travel, but becomes firm and linear. They are like the ABS brakes in my Frontier pickup. The stock brakes were designed as a system with all of the parts working together. Altering one thing can have a domino effect that results in poor performance and added cost. None of the above brake combinations improve street performance. Racing may be another matter where people can use different front and rear pads and a proportioning valve to dial in brake balance.

Remove the check valve and the spring.

240Z with SBC 350 and WC T5 transmission After six years of flawless use my 89 WC T5 transmission is grinding when shifting between 3rd and 4th gears. While out for a drive the grinding got progressively worse. No grinding in any of the the other gears, just 3rd to 4th. I can double clutch it into 4th with little or no grinding When I pulled into the driveway the shifter (stock T5) jammed in 1st gear. I shut the engine down and shifted to neutral and restarted the engine. Shifted hard into 1st gear, but was able to put car in the garage. A Google search indicates that the 3rd and 4th gear synchronizing assembly is probably warn or broken. Another Google search suggested that the pilot bushing could be causing the problem. Here is what my T5 manual says: Clutch damaged or out of adjustment Pilot bearing between input shaft and Output shaft binding Damaged synchronizer Bell housing misaligned Damaged gear or gears Worn or damaged flywheel pilot bushing Any other suggestions?

Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read all of the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Right of passage for Z owners.

Yes check them. Also, check that the brake switch connector hasn't come loose and check all of the wire harness connectors that connect to the TS switch. Glad this is starting to work out for you.

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Here is an adjustable flasher designed specifically for LEDs: hotronicsproducts.com/product_info.php?products_id=5&osCsid=fa310277fd5842b79683c8a4cb880e14#.VUK4DpPUfYg

I am real anal about understanding why things work or don't work. If it were my car I would want to know why the parts were not fitting rather than grinding parts to make them work. You may be able to get by with grinding the caliper, but check for the rotor rubbing on the caliper under load and when cornering. Also, do you want to grind future replacement calipers? Other variables: Are the bearing races in the hubs installed correctly - are they seated? Are the hubs seated properly on the spindles? And, most likely the problem, is the spacer machined to the correct thickness to center the rotor in the caliper? Look at the dimensional stack up of all of the parts. How far does the caliper have to move to center the rotor? Something is off.

There are on-line services that. for a fee, will provide registration history and other information such as if the car has been salvaged etc. The newer the car the more data is available. For example: https://www.google.com/search?q=check+registration+history+of+car&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=ubuntu&channel=fs&gws_rd=ssl

Here is a good write up on LED bulb replacement in 280Z: http://www.nearwood.net/category/cars/ Scroll down to about 1/3 of the page.

Somewhere I recall seeing an electronic flasher that had an adjustable flash rate for LED lights.

Suggestions when repairing the turn signal switch: There are lots of small parts, especially that small ball bearing, that can flip out and into a black hole. I lay a white towel down on the work surface to contain the small parts if dropped. A blob of grease will hold the ball bearing in-place during reassembly A small fine file or a cardboard fingernail file works to clean the contacts. Sometimes the contacts become bent and need to be adjusted so they make full contact. Subtle bending is all that is required. Suggest that you buy, and repair, an extra set of turn signal and headlight switches. You can use the repaired switches as a ready replacement and/or when trouble shooting light problems. Note: The turn signal switch also switches the brake lights off/on when signaling and can cause brake light issues in addition to turn signal problems.

Yes. I got mine at Oreilly autoparts

Your are close. Replace the old analog flasher with an electronic flasher when using LED bulbs. It will connect to the same wire your existing flasher uses, but the electronic flasher has a pigtail for a ground. This may be of interest: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122167-riddle-me-this-72-turn-signal-woes/

Most likely it is the turn signal switch. The contacts either become corroded or they become bent and no longer make contact. It is repairable. There are some tutorials here and on other Z websites. I may still have one that I can post. Covered extensively. Search hybridZ "turn signal" "turn signal repair" etc Google: 240Z turn signal repair. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/34330-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining/

Setting up suspension is not like choosing between corn or peas for dinner. You are going to have to do some reading. Search Google and HybridZ using terms like: "spring rates handling" "spring rates over steer" "spring rates under steer" "spring rates racing" "spring rates autocross" etc etc. For example: https://www.google.com/search?q=%22spring+rates+autocross%22+&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=ubuntu&channel=fs&gws_rd=ssl Go to Autocross events and talk to the drivers.