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Miles

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Everything posted by Miles

  1. Miles
    With my SBC 350 swap I completely eliminated the vapor tank and all of the hoses except for the top most hose that connects to the filler tube. The top most hose allows air to vent as the tank is filled. All of the tail light gaskets and hatch seals were replaced. No vapor odors at all.
  2. Miles
    The 280Z booster works well with the Wilwood 1 inch brake MC I installed when I did the Toyota front and 280ZX rear disk swap. Makes the brake pedal less stiff
  3. Miles
    See: http://www.hammondsplains.com/newtechtips/brakes/77drum/
  4. Miles
    What year and model is your car? 240Z, 280Z, 280ZX, 300Zx etc
  5. Miles
    Have you checked the light switch wiring harness connections on the steering column? If not remove the plastic steering column cover and verify that all harness connections are tight. At the same time check the light switch operation with a volt meter. The headlight switch works by grounding the power to the headlights so you will not see any voltage at the headlight fuses if the switch contacts are oxidized, or open or if the switch ground wire is open. The combo switch is repairable and there is a HybridZ member named Dave who repairs the switches for a fee and he also sells a headlight relay harness which improves headlight brightness and takes the load off of the light switch. Look in the vendor forum for "headlight harness". He also sells the harness through Motor Sport Auto (MSA). The harness is a must if you plan on installing higher wattage headlights.
  6. Miles
    In my 72 240Z the light switch grounds the always hot headlight circuit. So, if the headlight switch is defective, then it won't ground the headlight circuit such that you will not see any voltage at the fuse. Most likely the contacts in the headlight switch are dirty or out of adjustment. A very common problem with 240Z light and turn signal switches. See: Headlight switch repair: http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf Turn signal switch repair: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/
  7. Miles
    I drove mine stock as a daily driver for eight years and then did a restomod including a SBC 350 engine swap, Camaro T5 trans, poly U suspension bushings, Tokico struts, brake upgrades, stiffer Arizona Z springs and new interior. The car is a very comfortable daily driver that I often get offers on. Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.ztherapy.com/
  8. Miles
    Back firing through the carbs is the sign of a too lean mixture. Do you know about the mixture adjustment nuts on the bottom of each carb? You will need to learn how to tune and maintain SU carbs. If you are new to SU carbs then you need to buy the "Just SUs" video at http://www.ztherapy.com/ After viewing this video you will be able to maintain, adjust and repair SU carbs. Ztherapy also carries parts for SU carbs. If you Google SU carb adjustment or SU repair you should get many how to work with SUs write ups by Z car owners. For example: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/2-write-ups-on-tuning-su-carbs.html Also, search Hybridz and classiczcars.com as there are many posts on maintaining SU carbs. In addition to the video, download a pdf copy of the factory service manual (FSM) for your year Z from the Links forum. Look here too: http://atlanticz.ca/...bs/su/index.htm
  9. Miles
    Congrats, you are in the club now. So it was an open circuit. I have had the same thing happen.
  10. Miles
    sad
  11. Miles
    Googled "240Z R200 swap" and got: About 14,300 results (0.31 seconds) There are detailed "How to swap R200 differentials" descriptions on the internet.
  12. Miles
    Sounds more like an open circuit. Back to basics: Get a schematic and trace/check the power circuit to/from the switch Check the power wire on the ignition switch. Power yes/no? Etc.
  13. Miles
    Type "r200 swap" in the search window above. Ditto Google "240Z r200 swap". It is documented all over the internet, here and other Z websites.
  14. Miles
    Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Good to have if you bought a v8 Z car. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/
  15. Miles
    Perhaps someone can post a side by side picture of 240Z and 280Z flanges for comparison.
  16. Miles
    I have done two 240Zs with R200 swaps and there have been no signs of binding or I don't notice. Might only surface in autocross etc.
  17. Miles
    Here are some suspension differences between the 240Z and 280Z: The 240Z is about 227kg. lighter than the 280Z and utilizes shorter, lighter springs. The 240Z's front springs are 14.7 inches long for the driver's side and 15.2 inches for the passenger side. The 240Z's rear springs are both 14.5 inches long. The heavier 280Z's front coil springs are both 15.98 inches in length. 280Z rear springs are 15.43 inches long. 280Z strut insulators are longer. The control arms are the same. So did Nissan solve the half shaft binding issue with modifications to the suspension? More droop in the control arms? Do the modifications allow more travel to control arms before binding of the half shaft? Are the 280Z companion flanges designed to allow more half shaft travel before bottoming out?
  18. Miles
    Pac_Man Please post how you were able to solve the soft pedal issue.
  19. Miles
    The 240Z uses 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare brake fittings. The Wilwood ad says: "as the inlet and outlet ports are 10MM X 1 bubble flare seats and do not require tube nut adapters to directly install tubing with bubble flare 10MM x 1 nuts." Bubble flair brake fittings on a 240Z will leak. The Wilwood PV i used has 1/2" NPT ports. So I used 10mm x 1.0mm inverted flair to 1/2" NPT adaptors. They can be purchased at Fly'n Miata or from other suppliers.
  20. Miles
    The S30 is a 40 year old small car. But fun if you drive it thoughtfully. Probably a side collision would be the worst. Avoid driving in the rain as the back end breaks loose easily. I never drive in the rain. Why a roll bar? For a street car or a daily driver the roll bar becomes something to bang your head on in a collision unless you plan on wearing a helmet driving to the store.
  21. Miles
    Has anyone looked at front - rear brake balance using this caliper with e.g., stock front brakes, Toyota vented/solid front brakes, ArizonaZ front brakes etc.? It would be interesting to look at doing some brake bias calculations using different brake combinations. Is this a better rear disk swap then a 240SX which hooks up directly to the stock parking brake cable?
  22. Miles
    Here you go. Note: Access to oil filter and starter. Flange at rear of transmission to allow removal of tail pipe for access to the drive shaft, parking brake, differential and rear suspension etc.
  23. Miles
    How did the Nissan engineers solve the "binding problem" on stock 280Z cars? Use 280Z control arms?
  24. Miles
    Your MC is not pushing enough fluid under pressure. Take the MC off the car and bench bleed it. See post #3 in http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109115-master-cylinder-bench-bleeding/?p=1020086 When you have the MC in a vice on the bench with the clear hose hooked up per the picture in the link above (post #3): Fill the tanks slowly so you do not create bubbles open both bleed screws. Make sure all fittings and hoses are air tight. Push the piston slowly so as not to create bubbles. If you see a lot of bubbles in the tank stop for 10 or 15 minutes and let the bubbles rise to the surface. Repeat until there are no bubbles. Be prepared to plug the output ports of the MC when you are ready to transfer the MC to the car otherwise fluid will leak out. At the car hook up the hard lines before placing the MC on the booster. Tighten the fittings finger tight. Once the MC is on the booster tighten the fittings the rest of the way. Resume bleeding the rear brakes. If there is still no fluid flowing while pumping the brake pedal then the MC is bad and you will need to replace it.
  25. Miles
    In order to be 100% sure all of the air is out, the piston must be pushed full stroke. On the car this can be accomplished by: Unbolt the MC from the booster, but leave the hard lines connected. Pull the MC out and away from the booster - the hard lines have enough flex to allow this. Attach clear plastic hoses to the bleeders and run into the tanks. Hold the hoses securely with clothes pins etc so they don't pop out and suck air. Open the bleeders and place a screw driver etc. up against the piston being careful not to scratch the bore. Push the piston slowly with the screw driver all the way until the piston bottoms out. Repeat until zero bubbles appear in the plastic hose. Note: sometimes air will enter around the hose where it is attached to the bleeder or around the threads of the bleeder giving the impression that there is still air in the MC and will also allow air to get sucked back into the MC. So make sure the hoses fit tight and just crack the bleeder enough to allow fluid flow. Speed bleeders insure that no air is leaking past the threads. I have been able to bleed a MC on the car with out unbolting it from the booster, but sometimes the only way to get all of the air out of the MC is to push the piston all the way until it stops as in bench bleeding.
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