Miles

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/

Too much background noise and not enough of the "problem sounds".

Are you aware that there are two styles of 280ZX calipers? https://www.google.com/search?q=280zx+rear+brake+caliper&client=ubuntu&hs=zlP&channel=fs&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAmoVChMI2en4vr-FxgIVzFmICh3mPQBN&biw=1344&bih=704 http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/brake_caliper/nissan/280zx.html http://www.partsmonkey.com/en-CA/Part?id=153768&ptnum=4056&PartType=Rear+Brake+Caliper&pvid=9591775&Make=NISSAN/DATSUN&Model=280ZX&Year=1981&Engine=L6-2753cc+2.8L+F/I+TURBO+-+Vin+L28ET http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Caliper-w-Hardware-Left-Rear-Eclipse-Semi-Loaded-RemfdCaliper-w-Hardware-Left-Rear-Eclipse-Semi-Loaded-Remfd/_/R-SEBSE708A_0248582604 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Caliper-w-Hardware-Left-Rear-Eclipse-Semi-Loaded-RemfdCaliper-w-Hardware-Left-Rear-Eclipse-Semi-Loaded-Remfd/_/R-SEBSE1118A_0248582665 You may want to consider using one of the 240SX rear caliper kits.

When you check to see if the "reaction disk" has fallen out of place, also verify that the push rod that goes into the master cylinder is adjusted to the correct length per your Haynes or Chilton or Factory Service manual. Make sure that the reaction disk is in place first and then adjust the push rod. Do a search on push rod adjustment for the details. If you find the reaction disk glue it to the push rod to avoid it falling off the next time you have to remove the master cylinder.

How about a Ford flathead V8. I bet nobody has done that one in a Z. Transmission: I have used Camaro T5 transmissions in two builds. The first one I got from a wrecking yard cost $400 and the second T5 was a new rebuilt for $700. The first build I used the wrecking yard T5 and a used SBC 350 engine with unknown mileage. That was 14 years ago and that car is still on the road.

Just to be clear, you have replaced all of the lights with LEDs?

Small block Chevy V8. It has been done thousands of times all over the world. It is a simple tried and true engine with parts available everywhere. There is even a book that tells you how to do the installation. A Goodwrench create SBC 350 with a mild cam is less than $2000 and will provide about 240 RWHP delivered to your door. It is an easy installation if you have automotive experience or have a helper who does.

I replied to your other thread. For LEDs you will need an electronic flasher because LEDs do not pull enough current to make conventional flasher work. It may come with two prongs and a black ground wire. Plug it in and attach the ground with to the car.

240z. I replied to your other thread on the same subject. If you have LEDs you will need an electronic flasher such as the one I mentioned above. Flashers are standardized such as a 552 type etc. You should be able to go to any parts store and get one. For example: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIT0/FLR536/01546.oap?year=1977&make=Nissan&model=280Z&vi=1209248&ck=Search_flasher_01546_1209248_3006&keyword=flasher&pt=01546&ppt=C0117 Is your flasher non-standard?

I bought an electronic flasher at Oreillys. It has two prongs and a ground wire. It will work with LEDs. Also, Hotronics sells a flasher designed to work with LEDs and conventional bulbs and it has an adjustable flash rate. http://www.hotronicsproducts.com/

Searching for two minutes: last post page 2 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94717-will-not-turn-off-with-key/

Make a 1 to 2 minute video of the engine compartment with the engine running: one view from the driver's side of the engine and one from the passenger's side of the engine. Have someone raise and lower the engine speed a few times in each view. Same for a front view.

I'll take a stab at it. On one of my 240Zs an exhaust header came loose and blew out the header gasket on one cylinder. It made a mechanical sound very similar to this.

Loy What was your rear brake set up before the TT swap and how do you compare the two?

See videos here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121812-no-power-to-headlight-fuse/

I just discovered using a syringe while bleeding a clutch master cylinder. I got the 60cc syringe from kitchen supply section of my local super market (hardware store has them also). The syringe comes with a needle that can be fitted into clear plastic tubing. For new brakes I use a Motive pressure bleeder (like a garden sprayer) initially to fill the system and have added speed bleeders to the MC and calipers to make follow-on bleeding easier. The syringe comes in handy to fill/remove fluid in the master cylinder.

I wonder where Silvermine is getting new 15/16 master cylinders.

I agree with NewZed. Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Book is useful for any engine swap. Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. The engine swap is the easy part. It is understanding the details like brake fittings, adapters, drive shaft angles, brake system, automotive electronics, wheels, suspension and etc. that makes or breaks a build project. Recommend that you buy a running Z car and drive it stock. Do basic maintenance brakes, suspension, electrical etc. so you have a ready to drive platform when you finish the engine swap. You will learn a lot about auto mechanics and how the Z car functions as well. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/81-powertrain/

You may want to exchange that 3/4 clutch MC for a 7/8 MC. The 3/4 MC has been shown to not have enough throw when used with a T5 transmission. I have used the 7/8 MC on two builds with T5 transmissions. Works good. Also, I discovered that the clutch pedal bump stop (sheet metal bracket) on the floor of my 240Z was preventing full clutch release so I removed the bracket. Currently using: Summit Racing Part Number: WIL-260-10374

One of the pictures at the bottom of the page shows and after market brake booster and master cylinder. Can you provide details e.g., p/n, how was it installed and the cylinder diameter? What brake set up are you using with the booster and master cylinder?

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/5361-stuck-240z-brake-drum/?do=findComment&comment=40349 See posts #4 and #14 Also: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/5025-rear-drum-pita/?do=findComment&comment=37910

I would like to use the 280ZX booster and master cylinder on my 72 240Z, but the clutch MC is in the way.

Does that D21 master cylinder have a vertical or horizontal mounting flange?

Why do you need a proportioning valve?