Miles

72 240Z SBC 350 Camaro T5 transmission. The grease on the clutch arm pivit ball has become dried out. Is there a way to grease the pivit ball without removing the transmission and bell housing?

I hear Kang and Kodos are good. The other picture is me being being attacked, and badly injured, by a mutant transmission mechanic at a shop on Pluto. All I did was say: "your transmission shifts hard" and he went into a rage..

IF after you have bled the MC (procedure in brake forum), and you have bled the rest of the system, press and hold the brake pedal. If it sinks then the MC is leaking internally. If it just feels spongy then there is still air in the system. Not to scare you, but I had two Wilwood 1 inch MCs fail out of the box. They would not hold pressure. Did you adjust the MC push rod?

Question: have you recently done any wiring changes, modifications or removed any lights?

Arizona Z Cars radiator working good at 300hp. Bolts in. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122990-arizona-z-cars-radiator/

Good read: http://datsunforum.com/the-scarab-legend-the-original-hybrid-datsun-z/ Look at the engine bay. It has V8 swap written all over it. I don't know how he got it, but the owner of the shop I worked in in fall of 1969 brought one in.

Like this.......................

Please note that the wire list is not mine. Perhaps the original owner will comment.

Welcome to the club. Have a great build.

See attached wire list. I do not recall where I got it. 240Z WIRE LIST & FUNCTION.doc

This is how I wired my 72 240z for a SBC V8. You may/may not wire differently, but these are the functions of these wires. Before I took the stock engine out I verified the function of each wire with a volt meter and made a wire list. As you test each wire note the position of the ignition switch. GRN - WHT: This wire is energized by the ignition switch position just before the starter position. I attached it to the fuel pump side of an oil pressure switch so the fuel pump will operate during starter operation. When the switch returns to the "run" position this wire is de-energized. BLK-WHT without protective sleeve: TACH terminal on HEI distributor. Used only with 280Z tach. BLK-WHT with protective sleeve: BAT terminal on HEI distributor YLW-WHT: Water temp gauge WHT - RED (thick): Alternator terminal. Use 14 ga. Fusible Link. WHT: Positive terminal on starter BLK - YLW: Starter S terminal

Duff Click on Edit at bottom of post to make changes/corrections. Use the Full Editor to add/delete pictures, text effects etc.

Wood shed

I had gas fume problems before doing the v8 swap. My engine was carbed so I decided to eliminate as many fume exit points as possible. I eliminated the vapor tank and all of the hoses except for the top hose that I ran to the top fitting on the filler hose. No gas odor since then.

The long red line should not be capped. As the tank is filled air will be trapped in the top of the tank. Connect the long red hose to the fitting near the top of the filler hose to release air trapped in the top of the tank. This is ASSUMING that you have eliminated the vapor tank. There is a post with pictures showing which hoses to keep if you decide to eliminate more hoses. I have eliminated all of the other hoses and have no gas odor.

The best way to reduce loads on switches and wires is to install relays. A member here designed and sells through MSA relay kits for headlights and there are also relay kits for turn signals and running lights. Search here and at MSA. With relays the lights will be brighter and there will be less stress on switches. The member who makes the relay kits is named Dave and lives in Washington. Search in the VENDOR forum for relay kits. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651

An electronic flasher costs less than $20. Please don't take this as a put down, but you should study some books on automotive electronics

For LED turn signal bulbs you don't need resistors. Use an electronic flasher unit availble at most parts stores. Been discussed here many times.

Anyone following California SB 350? It will give the California Air Resources Board the abilty to control gasoline use including monitoring individual gas use and rationing. I expect they will use this bill to get old inefficient cars off of Califonia roads as well.

Saginaw 4 speed. Just sold one to a circle track racer.

The v6 and v8 T5s have different spline counts on the input shafts.

If using a spacer, step up the thickness of the spacer in increments e.g., 1/8" 3/16" etc. until the wheel clears the caliper. Note that you will need to watch the length of the wheel studs - you may have to install longer studs depending on how thick the spacer(s) are. Again, try to post some pictures where the caliper and wheel are touching. The other option you have is to use a different caliper or go back to stock.

Camaro WC T5 with the T5 bell housing. Note that the T5 is tilted 15 degrees to the left

Try Johns Cars Inc. He sells a 280ZX swap kit. See: http://www.johnscars.com/zcar/zcar.html Also, Google "280ZX SBC 350" Transmission selection depends on how you will use the car. I prefer the T5 WC transmission for my daily drivers.

See if you can post a picture where the caliper and wheel are touching. I had the same problem with the S-8 calipers when I changed wheels. I was able to fix it with very minor grinding of the caliper using a Dremel grinder. The Dremel allowed taking very small bites of material. Even though my caliper was also touching the side of the wheel, I experimented with wheel spacers which eliminated the touching, but I considered the spacers a band-aid fix. After carefully examining where the caliper was touching the wheel I could see that the casting was thick enough at that point to allow grinding and ground off (skimming) a bit of metal. After taking off a small amount of material I would refit the wheel to check the interference. After several iterations of grinding and testing, the wheel went on without rubbing. Total material removed was less than 1mm. I then road tested the car and have had no problems. The key to fitment problems is to keep looking until you understand exactly what is obstructing the parts from fitting. Look for witness marks for where the wheel and caliper are touching. I used a small amount of paint on the caliper where I suspected rubbing was occurring and refit the wheel turning it to make a mark on the inside the wheel and rub the paint off of the caliper. This was very revealing. I could see that it was one spot on the caliper about 3 or 4 mm in diameter that was touching the wheel. Don't grind the wheel or the caliper until you can evaluate exactly what is causing the conflict. There may be other solutions than mine, or worst case, you will have to change wheels or calipers. Again, posting pictures will help.