Miles

Go here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ type "14 inch" in Search this Topic window. Note: most of the popular disk upgrades do not improve braking performance. They actually reduce stopping performance and result in an unbalanced braking system. Many people regret doing the rear "disk upgrade" once they realize that it doesn't perform well and then they have to change other brake system components (domino effect) to make it work. Check out the brake balance calculations associated with various disk brake "upgrades" posted in the brake section. Hybridz has the most reliable information about Z modifications, but you have to dig it out.

What car and engine would help?

fuel level site plug fig. 4.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/swaybar/

http://corbeau.com/reclining-seats/gts-ii.html http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f09/40-7491

Autometer is the old standard for Z cars, but there are many new gauge brands that work better. The ideal solution would be to find a a fuel gauge that comes with a matched sending unit that could be retrofitted to a Z gas tank. My stock fuel gauge works perfectly so I left it alone.

100s of posts on this. search "Autometer fuel gauge" BTW it takes some doing to make the aftermarket fuel gauge read correctly. Also, Google "240z autometer fuel gauge" and you will find many write ups on fuel gauges: https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+autometer+fuel+gauge&client=ubuntu&hs=6lG&channel=fs&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAmoVChMIoJ3DsKz9yAIVkJaICh2YnAR2&biw=1344&bih=664

How are you going to use the car? Daily driver?

I always carry a wrench that fits the bleeders on the MC when road testing just for this situation. When the brakes start to seize from having the push rod too long you can unlock the brakes by opening the bleed screws on the MC to relieve the pressure so you can limp home to readjust the push rod in small increments. You may know this, but you do not have to disconnect the MC to adjust the push rod. There is enough flex in the hard lines to pull the MC out and push it aside to access the push rod.

72 240Z SBC 350 Camaro T5 transmission. The grease on the clutch arm pivit ball has become dried out. Is there a way to grease the pivit ball without removing the transmission and bell housing?

I hear Kang and Kodos are good. The other picture is me being being attacked, and badly injured, by a mutant transmission mechanic at a shop on Pluto. All I did was say: "your transmission shifts hard" and he went into a rage..

IF after you have bled the MC (procedure in brake forum), and you have bled the rest of the system, press and hold the brake pedal. If it sinks then the MC is leaking internally. If it just feels spongy then there is still air in the system. Not to scare you, but I had two Wilwood 1 inch MCs fail out of the box. They would not hold pressure. Did you adjust the MC push rod?

Question: have you recently done any wiring changes, modifications or removed any lights?

Arizona Z Cars radiator working good at 300hp. Bolts in. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122990-arizona-z-cars-radiator/

Good read: http://datsunforum.com/the-scarab-legend-the-original-hybrid-datsun-z/ Look at the engine bay. It has V8 swap written all over it. I don't know how he got it, but the owner of the shop I worked in in fall of 1969 brought one in.

Like this.......................

Please note that the wire list is not mine. Perhaps the original owner will comment.

Welcome to the club. Have a great build.

See attached wire list. I do not recall where I got it. 240Z WIRE LIST & FUNCTION.doc

This is how I wired my 72 240z for a SBC V8. You may/may not wire differently, but these are the functions of these wires. Before I took the stock engine out I verified the function of each wire with a volt meter and made a wire list. As you test each wire note the position of the ignition switch. GRN - WHT: This wire is energized by the ignition switch position just before the starter position. I attached it to the fuel pump side of an oil pressure switch so the fuel pump will operate during starter operation. When the switch returns to the "run" position this wire is de-energized. BLK-WHT without protective sleeve: TACH terminal on HEI distributor. Used only with 280Z tach. BLK-WHT with protective sleeve: BAT terminal on HEI distributor YLW-WHT: Water temp gauge WHT - RED (thick): Alternator terminal. Use 14 ga. Fusible Link. WHT: Positive terminal on starter BLK - YLW: Starter S terminal

Duff Click on Edit at bottom of post to make changes/corrections. Use the Full Editor to add/delete pictures, text effects etc.

Wood shed

I had gas fume problems before doing the v8 swap. My engine was carbed so I decided to eliminate as many fume exit points as possible. I eliminated the vapor tank and all of the hoses except for the top hose that I ran to the top fitting on the filler hose. No gas odor since then.