Miles

Yes will need to adjust the push rod. There are several write ups in the brake section on how to adjust the push rod. Note if you adjust it out too far out it will lock the brakes up after a few pumps of the pedal and if it is too short you will experience a long pedal that bottoms out on the floor. Search the brake section for push rod adjustment. Go to the brake section and type pushrod into the search window in upper right corner of page. See post 11 here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100010-brake-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/

I dented one of my front struts such that the gland nut would no longer fit. I just bought another strut.

Did you mean 1 inch Wilwood MC? When I had Toyota solid front and stock drums with stock 7 inch booster with 280ZX MC in my 72 240Z the pedal was stiff. My current brake setup: Toyota solid front, 240sx rear, Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder, 77 280Z 8.5 inch booster. Originally, I used a 79 280ZX master cylinder and stock 7 inch booster. The pedal was stiff. When the 79 280ZX master cylinder failed I discovered that they were no longer available and chose to use the Wilwood 1 inch brake master cylinder. Thinking that using the larger diameter Wilwood master cylinder would result in a stiffer pedal I replaced the stock booster with one from a 77 280Z. The brake pedal travel for the 79 280ZX MC and the Wilwood MC is about the same, but with the 280Z booster the pedal requires very little effort to engage the brakes with good modulation. Brake feel: initial pedal feel is loose the first inch of travel and then braking comes on linearly with very little effort. The brake feel is a lot like the ABS brakes in my Nissan Frontier. The pedal is about 1 inch from the floor at full braking. For those considering swapping out 240Z booster for a 280Z booster, If you select the right year 280Z booster the clevis that connects the booster to the brake pedal can be used. There is a post in the brake section that explains the thread changes for the 280Z booster and which one allows using the stock clevis. I was limited to using the 8.5 280Z booster because the 7/8 Tilton clutch MC I used for my Camaro T5 transmission was in the way. Other HybridZ members pointed out that using a 7/8 Wilwood clutch MC (smaller body) would have allowed me to use a larger diameter booster.

Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Book is useful for any engine swap. Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. The engine swap is the easy part. It is understanding the details like threads, brake fittings, adapters, drive shaft angles, brake system, automotive electronics, wheels, suspension and etc. that makes or breaks a build project. Recommend that you buy a running Z car and drive it stock. Do basic maintenance: brakes, suspension, electrical etc. so you have a ready to drive platform when you finish the engine swap. You will learn a lot about auto mechanics and how the Z car functions as well. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Check the mechanical condition of the connectors. Are they tight and making contact?

You would think that Wilwood would stock these adapters, but they don't (at least as of 2009).

Good to know. Are they inverted or bubble? Part number?

http://trackspeedengineering.com/product_info.php/products_id/144

Flying Miata used to have them, but shows currently out of stock. Any adapter you buy make sure it is 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare The Wilwood PV has1/8" NPT ports. So use metric brake M10x1.0 female inverted flare to 1/8" NPT port adapter.

As a safety concern, before you go any further, you need to completely understand the vented Toyota caliper installation which is documented in detail in several HybridZ threads. Recommend: Return the spacer as it is obviously the wrong part. Understand that when you modify brakes you will create a domino effect such that other components of the brake system will become mismatched resulting in less performance and may become unsafe. You will find that the stock 7/8 in. master cylinder is not matched to the Toyota brakes (research it). Yes longer bolts are required and they should be at least grade 8. Maintained stock brakes with quality stock pads are fine for most applications. Many many threads confirm this. If you haven't read all of the FAQs on brake "upgrades" do so now.

The 240Z MM spacer I bought from Ross is 17.09mm thick (0.673in)

I bought my Toyota vented kit from Ross (original MM) 10 years ago. His spacer was of a different design - just a flat plate. I'll post a picture later.

Looks like Joe has two websites. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240-280z-brake-rotor-spacers.html and http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

Modern Motor Sports: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240-280z-brake-rotor-spacers.html

With my SBC 350 swap I completely eliminated the vapor tank and all of the hoses except for the top most hose that connects to the filler tube. The top most hose allows air to vent as the tank is filled. All of the tail light gaskets and hatch seals were replaced. No vapor odors at all.

The 280Z booster works well with the Wilwood 1 inch brake MC I installed when I did the Toyota front and 280ZX rear disk swap. Makes the brake pedal less stiff

See: http://www.hammondsplains.com/newtechtips/brakes/77drum/

What year and model is your car? 240Z, 280Z, 280ZX, 300Zx etc

Have you checked the light switch wiring harness connections on the steering column? If not remove the plastic steering column cover and verify that all harness connections are tight. At the same time check the light switch operation with a volt meter. The headlight switch works by grounding the power to the headlights so you will not see any voltage at the headlight fuses if the switch contacts are oxidized, or open or if the switch ground wire is open. The combo switch is repairable and there is a HybridZ member named Dave who repairs the switches for a fee and he also sells a headlight relay harness which improves headlight brightness and takes the load off of the light switch. Look in the vendor forum for "headlight harness". He also sells the harness through Motor Sport Auto (MSA). The harness is a must if you plan on installing higher wattage headlights.

In my 72 240Z the light switch grounds the always hot headlight circuit. So, if the headlight switch is defective, then it won't ground the headlight circuit such that you will not see any voltage at the fuse. Most likely the contacts in the headlight switch are dirty or out of adjustment. A very common problem with 240Z light and turn signal switches. See: Headlight switch repair: http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf Turn signal switch repair: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

I drove mine stock as a daily driver for eight years and then did a restomod including a SBC 350 engine swap, Camaro T5 trans, poly U suspension bushings, Tokico struts, brake upgrades, stiffer Arizona Z springs and new interior. The car is a very comfortable daily driver that I often get offers on. Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.ztherapy.com/

Back firing through the carbs is the sign of a too lean mixture. Do you know about the mixture adjustment nuts on the bottom of each carb? You will need to learn how to tune and maintain SU carbs. If you are new to SU carbs then you need to buy the "Just SUs" video at http://www.ztherapy.com/ After viewing this video you will be able to maintain, adjust and repair SU carbs. Ztherapy also carries parts for SU carbs. If you Google SU carb adjustment or SU repair you should get many how to work with SUs write ups by Z car owners. For example: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/2-write-ups-on-tuning-su-carbs.html Also, search Hybridz and classiczcars.com as there are many posts on maintaining SU carbs. In addition to the video, download a pdf copy of the factory service manual (FSM) for your year Z from the Links forum. Look here too: http://atlanticz.ca/...bs/su/index.htm

Congrats, you are in the club now. So it was an open circuit. I have had the same thing happen.

sad

Googled "240Z R200 swap" and got: About 14,300 results (0.31 seconds) There are detailed "How to swap R200 differentials" descriptions on the internet.