Miles

OOPS! I was still asleep. Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder.

Open the bleeder on the clutch slave and let gravity do its thing. Just keep the tank on the MC topped off. Takes about 10 -15 minutes.

Is there some reason that you can not take a picture of the caliper mounted on the car that shows specifically the rotor contacting the caliper? Otherwise this is just a guessing game. The attached picture shows a S12W Toyota caliper and 300ZX rotor installed on a Z. Does your caliper and rotor look like the picture?

Pictures of where the rotor is rubbing on the caliper would be helpful.

The speedo cable was attached to the Saginaw 4 speed, but the engine, transmission and differential had been blown up by the PO. So I don't know if it worked, but I wanted a five speed manual so I went with the T5. Also, the Saginaw puts the shifter too close to the dash whereas the T5 comes up in the stock shifter hole more like stock. The T5 does require removing a small amount sheet metal on the left side of the shifter hole to clear the shifter. The T5 is really nice on the freeway. I can post pictures of the installation. I also used a stock T5 shifter that I shortened. With some creative work on the center consul and shifter boot the shifter looks stock and you can not tell that it is offset to the left due to the tilted T5. If you haven't already don so, buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book on how to install a Chevy engine in a Z car. The book covers everything: engine, transmission choices, cooling, electrical, brakes, suspension etc. JTR also sells some of the parts you need for the conversion. One draw back for the T5 is it is not really designed for gear banging with a lot of horse power. Although it can be modified for high power applications, I consider it better suited for a daily driver.

The bell housing used for the The WC T5 transmission clocks the transmission 15 degrees to the left. The shifter is tilted to the right to compensate for the left clocking of the transmission. In a Camaro, this allows the shifter to be vertical. The T5 will mate to other Chevy bell housings, but then the rear mount will not be parallel to the ground i.e. a non T5 bell housing will clock the transmission to the right which also clocks the rear mount to the right. So you would need to fabricate an angled rear mount to allow mounting to a horizontal ross member. It has been done here by HybridZ members in the past. Search in the Driveline forum. My first v8 240Z came with a broken SBC 350 mated to a corvette bell housing and Saginaw 4 speed transmission which I replaced with a new engine, T5 bell housing and WC T5 transmission. I had considered not using the T5 bell housing, but rejected the idea because I didn't want to make a custom angled rear trans mount and it seemed to me that filling/checking the fluid would be problematic considering that the fill plug would be pointing at the ground. Here is some additional information about T5 transmissions and bell housings: http://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/bell-housing-differences.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/7587-bell-housing-the-same-for-t-5-and-saginaw/?hl=%2Bcamaro+%2Bbell+%2Bhousing+%2Btilted&do=findComment&comment=55063 Speedometer drive gear: If you are using the stock speedometer you will need to match the T5 speedometer drive gear to the differential ratio used. Jags that run sell the drive gears for T5 transmissions. If you have the JTR book there is a table that tells you which drive gear to use.

loy Can you post some pictures of the calipers, bracket and parking brake connection. Also, the caliper fitment inside the wheel. Thanks

Yes, " = inches Or if you prefer metric, +0.53'' = 13.456 millimeters

Also, check your local county laws for working on car in your home garage. My neighbor threatened to file a complaint because I was building a car in my garage and was making too much noise. I checked my county laws about noise and found out that not only can you be cited for noise but it was also illegal for anyone to perform "auto shop" work in a home garage. The law stipulated that the only allowed car maintenance is washing, cleaning, tire change or similar basic car related activities. I believe the laws are designed to prevent people from starting business in their garage. On the noise issue, the decision to cite someone is based on the complainer's subjective level of annoyance. California periodically threatens to get all old cars off the roads. There was a HybridZ thread on this issue a few years ago. On another topic, with the water situation in California we now have water Nazis who patrol the neighborhood leaving notes threatening to turn in water wasters. So I now wash my Z in the backyard away from prying eyes. The grass seems to like the water too.

Hope he is not a retired blood splatter expert. Have fun and keep us posted on your progress.

Beware of advertisements for so called rebuilt 240Z/280Z steering racks because the original parts needed for a rebuild have been NLA for years. Search the web as you might get lucky and find a new rack someone has been hanging onto.

Yes will need to adjust the push rod. There are several write ups in the brake section on how to adjust the push rod. Note if you adjust it out too far out it will lock the brakes up after a few pumps of the pedal and if it is too short you will experience a long pedal that bottoms out on the floor. Search the brake section for push rod adjustment. Go to the brake section and type pushrod into the search window in upper right corner of page. See post 11 here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100010-brake-booster-and-master-cylinder-upgrade/

I dented one of my front struts such that the gland nut would no longer fit. I just bought another strut.

Did you mean 1 inch Wilwood MC? When I had Toyota solid front and stock drums with stock 7 inch booster with 280ZX MC in my 72 240Z the pedal was stiff. My current brake setup: Toyota solid front, 240sx rear, Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder, 77 280Z 8.5 inch booster. Originally, I used a 79 280ZX master cylinder and stock 7 inch booster. The pedal was stiff. When the 79 280ZX master cylinder failed I discovered that they were no longer available and chose to use the Wilwood 1 inch brake master cylinder. Thinking that using the larger diameter Wilwood master cylinder would result in a stiffer pedal I replaced the stock booster with one from a 77 280Z. The brake pedal travel for the 79 280ZX MC and the Wilwood MC is about the same, but with the 280Z booster the pedal requires very little effort to engage the brakes with good modulation. Brake feel: initial pedal feel is loose the first inch of travel and then braking comes on linearly with very little effort. The brake feel is a lot like the ABS brakes in my Nissan Frontier. The pedal is about 1 inch from the floor at full braking. For those considering swapping out 240Z booster for a 280Z booster, If you select the right year 280Z booster the clevis that connects the booster to the brake pedal can be used. There is a post in the brake section that explains the thread changes for the 280Z booster and which one allows using the stock clevis. I was limited to using the 8.5 280Z booster because the 7/8 Tilton clutch MC I used for my Camaro T5 transmission was in the way. Other HybridZ members pointed out that using a 7/8 Wilwood clutch MC (smaller body) would have allowed me to use a larger diameter booster.

Suggestions: If doing a V8 swap buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book and read it at least 5 times. Book is useful for any engine swap. Buy books/manuals for the engine and transmission you want to use. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and buy a Haynes repair manual for your specific car. Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Make a detailed plan with parts list including cost before starting a project. Plan every system of the car. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Have some money. I stopped counting after $12k. Read the new member FAQs. The engine swap is the easy part. It is understanding the details like threads, brake fittings, adapters, drive shaft angles, brake system, automotive electronics, wheels, suspension and etc. that makes or breaks a build project. Recommend that you buy a running Z car and drive it stock. Do basic maintenance: brakes, suspension, electrical etc. so you have a ready to drive platform when you finish the engine swap. You will learn a lot about auto mechanics and how the Z car functions as well. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.atlanticz.../tech-tips.html http://www.classiczcars.com/index http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdrag.../zZxCatalog.htm http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Check the mechanical condition of the connectors. Are they tight and making contact?

You would think that Wilwood would stock these adapters, but they don't (at least as of 2009).

Good to know. Are they inverted or bubble? Part number?

http://trackspeedengineering.com/product_info.php/products_id/144

Flying Miata used to have them, but shows currently out of stock. Any adapter you buy make sure it is 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare The Wilwood PV has1/8" NPT ports. So use metric brake M10x1.0 female inverted flare to 1/8" NPT port adapter.

As a safety concern, before you go any further, you need to completely understand the vented Toyota caliper installation which is documented in detail in several HybridZ threads. Recommend: Return the spacer as it is obviously the wrong part. Understand that when you modify brakes you will create a domino effect such that other components of the brake system will become mismatched resulting in less performance and may become unsafe. You will find that the stock 7/8 in. master cylinder is not matched to the Toyota brakes (research it). Yes longer bolts are required and they should be at least grade 8. Maintained stock brakes with quality stock pads are fine for most applications. Many many threads confirm this. If you haven't read all of the FAQs on brake "upgrades" do so now.

The 240Z MM spacer I bought from Ross is 17.09mm thick (0.673in)

I bought my Toyota vented kit from Ross (original MM) 10 years ago. His spacer was of a different design - just a flat plate. I'll post a picture later.

Looks like Joe has two websites. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240-280z-brake-rotor-spacers.html and http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

Modern Motor Sports: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/datsun-240-280z-brake-rotor-spacers.html