Miles

Hybridz may not have the exact answer you need. Try this: copy and paste into Google search: site: classiczcars.com s130 spring swaps or site: classiczcars.com 280zx spring swaps etc Google s130 spring swaps etc use above search format to search other Nissan and other Z car websites. There are many.

I have the 1 inch Wilwood MC with Toyota solid calipers on the front and 240sx calipers on the the rear with all adjustments, including the push rod, verified and no air in the lines. I have a long slightly squishy pedal which becomes firm after about one inch of travel. Many other people have made this same complaint. The long pedal is a pain, so I researched the 240SX caliper design. The 240SX caliper has a low drag design (look it up) which means that the seals are designed to pull the piston away from the rotor which means that moving the piston takes a bit more fluid volume to bring the pads in contact with the rotor. I verified this by looking at 240SX master cylinders and sure enough they are of the "fast fill" step bore design as indicated by the bulge on the side. The"fast fill" MC provides an initial additional volume of fluid to push the piston out of the caliper to reduce time for the pads make contact with the rotor. I now believe that this may explain why there are many complaints about a long pedal or squishy pedal by people who have done the 240SX rear caliper swap. I have been researching the pros and cons of installing a 2psi residual pressure valve on the rear brake line coming out of the MC to offset the lag time (volume) required to bring the piston out of the bore. Some hot rod blogs make this recommendation to fix the long pedal issue common to drum to caliper swaps: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/low-drag-caliper-replacement-110823.html I am still researching the viability of installing the 2psi residual pressure valves. Note: The first two Wilwood MCs I bought both leaked internally out of the box. So far the third MC has held up for three years.

I got the self locking ZX nut from my local Nissan dealer.

The book contains detailed instructions on how to make the 280Z tach work. Most people will be unwilling to type a page of instructions from the JTR book. Done

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/OrderingBooks.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/13726-hood-alignment-primer/

I just noticed that your latching plate is mounted the reverse of mine. My latch is on the top of the bracket that is bolted to the fire wall. Look at my picture of the latch. The way you have the latch mounted on the bracket shouldn't effect alignment, but it could allow the peg on the hood to strike the distributor cap when closing the hood. The legnth of the peg is adjustable.

The question is: is the problem caused by hinge alignment or the latching mechanism? If you remove the latch from the hood so you can close the hood, would the hood line up with the fenders and fire wall? What do the gaps between the hood and the fenders look like ? What does the gap between the hood and the fire wall look like? Note there are some excellent threads on classiczcars.com web site that explain how to install and fine tune the hood alignment. There is a tutorial thread there by a member named escanlon that explains hood alignment. Paste this into Google: site: classiczcars.com "escanlon hood" etc etc

See atch hood latch pictures.

Need to show us photos of the hinges.

Chapter 10-1 7th edition of the JTR Datsun V8 conversion manual explains, in detail, how to do the required modifications and calibration to make the stock tach work with a V8. The manual costs around $30. Well worth the investment.

http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/28-links/

Thanks for this info. Any possibility that the stock parking brake cable will work with TTT caliper.

Please include which year Z you are asking about and what mods have been done. For a 71 240Z see post #8 for picture: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45901-early-1971-240z-and-rheostat/

When I was searching for a 78 280Z booster for my 240Z I discovered that there was a company in my hometown that rebuilds boosters and master cylinders for a variety of companies. I bought a booster from a local Nissan only wrecking yard and had the booster repair company rebuild it for $125. Check your surrounding communities for companies that rebuild boosters.

Google: "280zx eibach springs" etc etc etc

Post some pictures of the hinges,and torsion bars, hood release and hood in the open and closed position (side and front angles). In the meantime don't grind or force anything.

Have you tried MSA yet? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic21a15

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx/Datsun-240Z-1973/_/Ntt-/Ntk-Keyword/Nty-1/N-599001%20101973%2050018%202018010%2026401/Ne-25000

For the Maxima calipers you should be able to find SS lines with a 10mm banjo on one end and a 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare end that connects to the hard line on the body. MSA sells a Maxima kit that uses SS lines with banjo fittings. Call MSA and ask if they sell the lines for the Maxima kit. Or you can use -3 adaptors on both ends. For the front you will need a -3 to 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare adaptor on the caliper and a SS line that has a 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare end to connect to the hard line on the body or you can use a -3 to 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare adaptor for the hard line connection. Recommend that you research this brake swap before ripping your brake system apart. This brake combination is not balanced and you will need to install either a 15/16 or 1 inch master cylinder for adequate fluid volume. The Maxima calipers are not well mached to the Toyota calipers resulting in too much front bias (search). Many people regret this swap. This has been documented extensively in the brake section and FAQs. Suggest that you rebuild the stock brakes, install SS lines and keep the brakes maintained.

You don't need a hose shop. You can get all of the fittings from Summit, Jegs, Russell, Earles or you local speed shop. You will need to plan and measure for the hose length and be sure to verify that the hose clears all components and does not rub on anything by moving the suspension up and down.

Posts 8 and 10 in link: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116242-adapter-to-attach-stainless-steel-flex-lines-directly-to-front-brake-caliper/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Blines

Should caliper type/brand/model number be added to the list? I know it made a difference with my Toyota front calipers. The 15" wheels I had at the time I installed the Toyota calipers fit without any clearence problems, but when I installed a set of 15" Ansen slotted mag wheels the mounting surface of the wheel rubbed on the caliper body. A 1/8" spacer fixed the problem.

Too many variables to consider and too much time to keep a spread sheet updated. How about a tutorial on how to measure for wheel and tire fitment including special tools required for checking spring/strut clearences? The tutorial could be posted in the FAQ section.

Good assumption. My first 240Z had many 280Z parts installed by previous owners. PITA.