Miles

I made a reaction disk from a rubber stopper of the correct diameter and thickness (approx 6mm). Just take the push rod to the hardware store and match it to a rubber stopper. Cut a 6mm thick section off the end of the stopper and JB Weld it to the push rod. Shape the stopper with sand paper to match the diameter of the push rod. It looks and functions like the original reaction disk.

What year T5? The T5 was made for a V6 and a V8. They are different. Is the T5 a World Class T5 or the older version? What flywheel do you have? Measure the T5 input shaft OD. Use a digital caliper from Harbor Freight Measure the diameter of the hole in the flywheel where the bushing goes. Use the digital caliper. You now have the data to go to the Napa Parts look up. Note: If you buy a new clutch kit they often come with the pilot bushing.

The R200 mustache bar should look like the attached picture when installed correctly.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/29420-brak-booster-and-mc-upgrade/?hl=%2B280zx+%2Bbooster&do=findComment&comment=228628 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49295-260z280z-booster-in-a-240z-it-can-be-done/ http://www.zdriver.com/forum/240z-260z-280z-brakes-wheels-suspension-chassis-126/bmc-swapping-27302/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/35455-brake-boostermaster-cylinder-options-on-a-73-240z/

I do mine with a few less steps: Put car on jack stands. Disconnect the brake lines and parking brake cables. Remove the three nuts on the insolater cap holding the strut assembly to the shock tower. There is enough slop in the suspension that you can just put your foot on the hub and push down on it while pulling the strut towards you to clear the fender lip. No need to remove any other parts. Apply spring compressor and remove the nut on the shock. Replace springs/shocks as required. Reverse steps to reassemble. I installed Arizona Z springs on two 240Zzs this way. The Arizona Z springs were shorter than the stock springs so a spring compressor was not required for reinstallation. Seems like it took about twenty minutes per corner.

There must be a QC problem at Tokico. Some things never change. I once ordered front and rear Tokicos for a 240Z. All of the gland nuts were wrong. The dealer replaced the gland nuts. Thanks for the update.

No. Just my club which consists of me and my son and two hybrid 240Zs.

Just use stock rubber bushings for the TC rod and poly for the rest of the suspension.

Check out Wilwood clutch MCs. They may be more compact.

Go to Z Therapy and buy the video "just SUs". It will explain how to maintain SU carbs. http://www.ztherapy.com/ Note: backfiring through the carb can be timing or the carb set too lean. The video will expalin it all. Also there are over a hundred posts here, at ClassicZcars.com and listed in Google searches dealing with SU carbs. Many many how-to posts are on-line. All of those vacuum lines have a purpose. See the FSM. Download a copy of the factory service manual (FSM) from elsewhere on this site or Google a FSM download, and buy a Haines manual. Watch the video until you understand SU carbs. You will then be able to tune a set of SU carbs in about 15 minutes.

Look here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/18532-power-antenna-electrics.html

You need to download a copy of the factory service manual (FSM) before you start working on the suspension. Some of the FSMs are available in one of the forums. Or do a google search. Also a Haynes manual. You are aware that you will need a spring compressor if you have to remove the strut (shock absorber).

Go to the brake section and enter "push rod" into the search window. There are many many posts, with pictures and methods for measuring the push rod. Or just take it to a brake mechanic and have the MC installed

Yes the 7/8 240Z has a check valve in the rear port because the 240Z had drums on the rear. Note I have found check valves in the front port on some rebuilt MCs. So I always check the front and rear MC ports before installing the MC. Do you mean the cone shaped seat for the pipe flange? If so, the cone shaped part just sits in the MC and can become stuck in-place. Carefully use a small screw driver and pry around the cone's base. Or use a rod or small screw driver that fits in the hole of the cone and gently move the cone from side to side. Do not scratch or dent the cone where the flange seats or it will leak. The cone usually just falls out after some light prying. The check valve and spring should just fall out or use some needlenose pliers to pull the valve out. There is a torque spec for the port fittitings. Look it up in the Haynes manual or in your factory service manual.

Are you running those pads on the street or track only?

My solution: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/5361-stuck-240z-brake-drum/?hl=%26quot%3Bstuck+drum%26quot%3B&do=findComment&comment=40349

There are some old threads discussing how to install a Mustang rack in a 240Z. Other racks as well.

Let us know how that rebuilt rack works out. It seems like some of the rebuild parts have been NLA for some time.

Go to either Earls Performance Plumbing or to Russell Performance Plumbing websites. They make a variety of AN adaptors. Everything you need to know is on Google. Research the difference between Japanese and metric brake fittings.

I replaced the original dome light with an aircraft eyeball style map light. Had to do some minor grinding in the recess where the original dome light was in.

Works now. Thanks

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Turn signal tutorial: http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

Would the switch cause lights to work at some times and not others? Yes Do the following: Google "240Z turn signal switch repair" There are many blogs that cover this problem. Search HybridZ for the same topic. I know there are many threads on this subject detailing the repair process. If the HybridZ search function does not work then do another Google search like this: Site: hybridz.org "240Z turn signal switch repair" There is also a guy named Dave on HybridZ and at ClassicZcars.com who used to offer a repair service. Tip: buy a few turn signal and headlight combination switches and learn how to repair them. Just swap in the repaired switch (s) and 90% of the time it fixes the problem.

Most likely the turn signal switch. The switch can be repaired. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/electrical-s30/33686-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining-ts-switch-diagram-nismo.jpg