Miles

Yes the 7/8 240Z has a check valve in the rear port because the 240Z had drums on the rear. Note I have found check valves in the front port on some rebuilt MCs. So I always check the front and rear MC ports before installing the MC. Do you mean the cone shaped seat for the pipe flange? If so, the cone shaped part just sits in the MC and can become stuck in-place. Carefully use a small screw driver and pry around the cone's base. Or use a rod or small screw driver that fits in the hole of the cone and gently move the cone from side to side. Do not scratch or dent the cone where the flange seats or it will leak. The cone usually just falls out after some light prying. The check valve and spring should just fall out or use some needlenose pliers to pull the valve out. There is a torque spec for the port fittitings. Look it up in the Haynes manual or in your factory service manual.

Are you running those pads on the street or track only?

My solution: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/5361-stuck-240z-brake-drum/?hl=%26quot%3Bstuck+drum%26quot%3B&do=findComment&comment=40349

There are some old threads discussing how to install a Mustang rack in a 240Z. Other racks as well.

Let us know how that rebuilt rack works out. It seems like some of the rebuild parts have been NLA for some time.

Go to either Earls Performance Plumbing or to Russell Performance Plumbing websites. They make a variety of AN adaptors. Everything you need to know is on Google. Research the difference between Japanese and metric brake fittings.

I replaced the original dome light with an aircraft eyeball style map light. Had to do some minor grinding in the recess where the original dome light was in.

Works now. Thanks

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Turn signal tutorial: http://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

Would the switch cause lights to work at some times and not others? Yes Do the following: Google "240Z turn signal switch repair" There are many blogs that cover this problem. Search HybridZ for the same topic. I know there are many threads on this subject detailing the repair process. If the HybridZ search function does not work then do another Google search like this: Site: hybridz.org "240Z turn signal switch repair" There is also a guy named Dave on HybridZ and at ClassicZcars.com who used to offer a repair service. Tip: buy a few turn signal and headlight combination switches and learn how to repair them. Just swap in the repaired switch (s) and 90% of the time it fixes the problem.

Most likely the turn signal switch. The switch can be repaired. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/electrical-s30/33686-72-240z-turn-signal-stoped-workining-ts-switch-diagram-nismo.jpg

If memory serves me, the 71 240Z MC has the front and rear lines reversed compared to 72 and newer. The tanks are also reversed on the 71. The Wilwood connects like the 72 and newer 240Zs. Actually there are many posts here and over at ClassicZcar.com that deal with this issue. So keep researching. Beermanpete gave you a solution to the line orientation and checkvalve issues.

Clean and rebuild the rear brakes with new parts, adjust the shoes properly, and you will be done with it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102754-a-one-inch-diameter-brake-master-cylinder-for-the-s30-z-cars/

The attached file should answer most of your questions. If you haven't done so, download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your Z. Buy a Haynes Manual for your Z. Buy a copy of How to Restore Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. Available at MSA, Amazon, Black Dragon etc. If you haven't already done so, completely rebuild your brakes including new hoses. It will solve most problems associated with an old car that may not have had the brakes serviced in years and will improve the safe operation of the car. The books above will guide you. BR Brake System.pdf

Try opening the bleed screws on the MC. If fluid pushes out and the car rolls without resistance then most likely the push rod is adjusted too long. A push rod adjusted too long will not allow fluid to return to the MC after braking. Google how a MC works to see why. Suggest that you spend several hours searching and reading in th brake forum as this has been covered many times.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvcJ_lU_VpQ many more on Youtube

Visibility is good.

No. Due to the shape and design they have limited range of adjustment creating blind spots. The mirror is too small. I replaced the bullet mirrors with just basic old school mirrors from MSA. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-1164

Yes, I thought that #16 was clear and concise as possible.

Look closely at the picture in post #16. Look on the outside of the hub for the code per the picture. The hub is the big round part with a hole in it on the strut that the bearings go in. All you need to do is to find the stamped code on the hub and then someone can send you a spacer. You have lost both spacers?

The letter code is stamped on the hub and the spacer has to match it. Look at the hub.

What letter code do you need A, B, C?

The hub is stamped with an A, B or C. Clean the dirt and paint off of the hub and verify which spacer you need. If you have the wrong spacer to begin with measuring it will not solve your problem! You should download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) which is where the picture I posted above is from. Also, do a search for "stub axle" in the Drivetrain forum as there are several posts dealing with stub axle problems, bearing issues, installation, warped flanges, hub letter codes etc.