Miles

Check out the Brake threads in the FAQ forum and all of the pinned threads in the brake forum. You will see many complaints about degraded rear brake bias after doing the various rear brake "upgrades" using Maxima, 240SX or 280ZX calipers. As you will see after reading about 100 threads they actually are not upgrades at all and people are frequently disappointed after removing their rear drum brakes. Also, be warned that the stub axles were not designed for disk brakes. The flanges can get bent/warped which will cause the rotor to rub on the pads and overheat. You can have the flanges turned if they are not too bad. Out of six old stub axles, I was able to use one after turning it. New stub axles are NLA. After-market stub axles are available, but run about $600 to $700 (see vendors forum). Note: I have done all of the so called "brake upgrades" using the above rear calipers, including front caliper, master cylinder and booster variations, and they are not upgrades all. Go look at Arizona Z Car brakes if you want an upgrade in terms of performance. Here are my brake bias (torque) calculations I did when playing around with different brake configurations: Based on using a 1 inch Wilwood master cylinder Stock front/ 240SX rear: 0.654 front 0.346 rear Toyota solid front/ 240SX rear: 0.660 front 0.340 rear Toyota vented front/240SX rear: 0.704 front 0.290 rear Note: a proportioning valve will not correct the bias problem.

Just now, the problem went away! ???

A while back when there were problems with the old server I only had problems with HybridZ. I almost ripped my PC apart thinking it was on my end. Once the new server was on-line, and de-bugged by Dan, all was well.

Me too. Seems like this happened a few months ago just before going to a new server.

Yesterday I was getting error messages when trying to access threads. Today when I click on the HybridZ link the screen goes white while IE searches for the site. I had to use an unblock website to leave this message. No trouble with any other website.

p/n 11-1837

Google image search: https://www.google.com/search?q=1989+280zx+rear+calipers&hl=en&site=webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=v_nJU5m-Nor3oASjo4G4CA&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1344&bih=694 Read all of the stickies on brake swaps, options and upgrades.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102754-a-one-inch-diameter-brake-master-cylinder-for-the-s30-z-cars/ See the brake section for more info on master cylinders. Lots of data.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/60419-halfshaft-length-and-r200-swap/?hl=%26quot%3Br200+offset%26quot%3B&do=findComment&comment=554946

The 1988 and newer Camaro 5 speeds are called World Class T5 transmissions. So you are correct, your T5 is not a World Class T5. Note: the T5 for six cylinder cars has a 14 spline input shaft and the T5 for V8 cars has a 26 spline input shaft. The front of the transmission case also has differences for the World Class T5 and the older T5s that you can see by doing a Google search. You could use your T5 as a core and buy a rebuilt 1989 Class T5 which is what I did. I also use a cut down stock Camaro shifter, a Tilton 7/8" master cylinder and a stock Camaro slave cylinder from Napa. You may want to have the flywheel resurfaced and balanced. The clutch kit I used was for an 89 Camaro (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-hp1675-1a/applications/). It contained the pressure plate, disk, pilot bearing and throwout bearing. So you should be able to find a kit for your application. Suggest that you research Summit for a clutch kit as Summit provides a lot of details about fitment and application. The kits cover several years. You should buy a Haynes Camero manual as it will explain how to work on the Camaro transmisson and clutch. It will show how to install the clutch plate and throwout bearing correctly.

If you might give the Z to a grand kid why not restore it? A V8 Z for a kid is not a good idea.

Do you want others to make a decision for you that you might regret? Only you can make that decision based upon research and weighing the pros and cons. Start with reading every post concerning the swap you want to do. If you can't decide then don't do it.

I made a reaction disk from a rubber stopper of the correct diameter and thickness (approx 6mm). Just take the push rod to the hardware store and match it to a rubber stopper. Cut a 6mm thick section off the end of the stopper and JB Weld it to the push rod. Shape the stopper with sand paper to match the diameter of the push rod. It looks and functions like the original reaction disk.

What year T5? The T5 was made for a V6 and a V8. They are different. Is the T5 a World Class T5 or the older version? What flywheel do you have? Measure the T5 input shaft OD. Use a digital caliper from Harbor Freight Measure the diameter of the hole in the flywheel where the bushing goes. Use the digital caliper. You now have the data to go to the Napa Parts look up. Note: If you buy a new clutch kit they often come with the pilot bushing.

The R200 mustache bar should look like the attached picture when installed correctly.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/29420-brak-booster-and-mc-upgrade/?hl=%2B280zx+%2Bbooster&do=findComment&comment=228628 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49295-260z280z-booster-in-a-240z-it-can-be-done/ http://www.zdriver.com/forum/240z-260z-280z-brakes-wheels-suspension-chassis-126/bmc-swapping-27302/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/35455-brake-boostermaster-cylinder-options-on-a-73-240z/

I do mine with a few less steps: Put car on jack stands. Disconnect the brake lines and parking brake cables. Remove the three nuts on the insolater cap holding the strut assembly to the shock tower. There is enough slop in the suspension that you can just put your foot on the hub and push down on it while pulling the strut towards you to clear the fender lip. No need to remove any other parts. Apply spring compressor and remove the nut on the shock. Replace springs/shocks as required. Reverse steps to reassemble. I installed Arizona Z springs on two 240Zzs this way. The Arizona Z springs were shorter than the stock springs so a spring compressor was not required for reinstallation. Seems like it took about twenty minutes per corner.

There must be a QC problem at Tokico. Some things never change. I once ordered front and rear Tokicos for a 240Z. All of the gland nuts were wrong. The dealer replaced the gland nuts. Thanks for the update.

No. Just my club which consists of me and my son and two hybrid 240Zs.

Just use stock rubber bushings for the TC rod and poly for the rest of the suspension.

Check out Wilwood clutch MCs. They may be more compact.

Go to Z Therapy and buy the video "just SUs". It will explain how to maintain SU carbs. http://www.ztherapy.com/ Note: backfiring through the carb can be timing or the carb set too lean. The video will expalin it all. Also there are over a hundred posts here, at ClassicZcars.com and listed in Google searches dealing with SU carbs. Many many how-to posts are on-line. All of those vacuum lines have a purpose. See the FSM. Download a copy of the factory service manual (FSM) from elsewhere on this site or Google a FSM download, and buy a Haines manual. Watch the video until you understand SU carbs. You will then be able to tune a set of SU carbs in about 15 minutes.

Look here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/18532-power-antenna-electrics.html

You need to download a copy of the factory service manual (FSM) before you start working on the suspension. Some of the FSMs are available in one of the forums. Or do a google search. Also a Haynes manual. You are aware that you will need a spring compressor if you have to remove the strut (shock absorber).

Go to the brake section and enter "push rod" into the search window. There are many many posts, with pictures and methods for measuring the push rod. Or just take it to a brake mechanic and have the MC installed