Miles

Try the Motive Universal kit. It comes with a cap that fits everything. Just make sure the cap is tight before pumping up pressure. I have had mine for eight years. Note that the surgical type hoses rot such that they have to be relaced after about a year of use. Clear plastic hose works as a replacement, but becomes brittle in contact with brake fluid. http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/0101-Round-Universal-Bleeder-_p_132.html

Does not look right. Wrong Wilwood??? http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-8794

http://www.motiveproducts.com/?gclid=CPSpwKChncACFSyCMgodcS8AoA Works good. Several MC adaptors available.

There are some good posts on how to connect a Painless harness to the combo switch. Try searching on "Painless combo switch".........etc.... I recall seeing a diagram, schematic etc

Here are some useful links: http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://www.zcar.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm http://www.courtesyparts.com/1970-1973-240z-air-conditioning-kit-r134-freon-p-228048.html?cPath=7724_7747& http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Wick's book is aimed at restoration. It has details that no repair manual has. This book plus the FSM will save you hours of research and frustration.

To get the most out of HybridZ, study all of the FAQs as 99.99% of all swap questions have been answered in detail over the last 13 years. The more time you spend researching and planning, the easier and cheaper the swap will go. Buy these: How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. The book gives details about Z cars that are not covered in other manuals. Available at Amazon, MSA and Black Dragon Haines manual for 240Z. Buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book on 240z engine swaps. It covers 90% of engine swap details. Go to the JTR website: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html Download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your Z. Some are posted here or just do a web search. They are free. Do a search on HybridZ/web and download any electrical schematics you find. Some members have posted improved color coded schematics. Plan every detail before you take the car apart.

Here is more info on brake bias: Brake bias calculator: You can calculate bias manually or use a program for calculating it . I did mine manually and then used the calculator below and the results were very close. You need to collect all of the variables and then do your calculations. There are many threads on how to do the calcs. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/ Discussion on various brake combinations and resulting brake bias/balance: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113398-toyota-truck-calipers-ventilated-brake-rotors-mm-rear-disc-brakes/?hl=bias

Please follow up this thread with how the 280ZX calipers work out.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html

Its from the school of hard knocks.

Check out the Brake threads in the FAQ forum and all of the pinned threads in the brake forum. You will see many complaints about degraded rear brake bias after doing the various rear brake "upgrades" using Maxima, 240SX or 280ZX calipers. As you will see after reading about 100 threads they actually are not upgrades at all and people are frequently disappointed after removing their rear drum brakes. Also, be warned that the stub axles were not designed for disk brakes. The flanges can get bent/warped which will cause the rotor to rub on the pads and overheat. You can have the flanges turned if they are not too bad. Out of six old stub axles, I was able to use one after turning it. New stub axles are NLA. After-market stub axles are available, but run about $600 to $700 (see vendors forum). Note: I have done all of the so called "brake upgrades" using the above rear calipers, including front caliper, master cylinder and booster variations, and they are not upgrades all. Go look at Arizona Z Car brakes if you want an upgrade in terms of performance. Here are my brake bias (torque) calculations I did when playing around with different brake configurations: Based on using a 1 inch Wilwood master cylinder Stock front/ 240SX rear: 0.654 front 0.346 rear Toyota solid front/ 240SX rear: 0.660 front 0.340 rear Toyota vented front/240SX rear: 0.704 front 0.290 rear Note: a proportioning valve will not correct the bias problem.

Just now, the problem went away! ???

A while back when there were problems with the old server I only had problems with HybridZ. I almost ripped my PC apart thinking it was on my end. Once the new server was on-line, and de-bugged by Dan, all was well.

Me too. Seems like this happened a few months ago just before going to a new server.

Yesterday I was getting error messages when trying to access threads. Today when I click on the HybridZ link the screen goes white while IE searches for the site. I had to use an unblock website to leave this message. No trouble with any other website.

p/n 11-1837

Google image search: https://www.google.com/search?q=1989+280zx+rear+calipers&hl=en&site=webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=v_nJU5m-Nor3oASjo4G4CA&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1344&bih=694 Read all of the stickies on brake swaps, options and upgrades.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102754-a-one-inch-diameter-brake-master-cylinder-for-the-s30-z-cars/ See the brake section for more info on master cylinders. Lots of data.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/60419-halfshaft-length-and-r200-swap/?hl=%26quot%3Br200+offset%26quot%3B&do=findComment&comment=554946

The 1988 and newer Camaro 5 speeds are called World Class T5 transmissions. So you are correct, your T5 is not a World Class T5. Note: the T5 for six cylinder cars has a 14 spline input shaft and the T5 for V8 cars has a 26 spline input shaft. The front of the transmission case also has differences for the World Class T5 and the older T5s that you can see by doing a Google search. You could use your T5 as a core and buy a rebuilt 1989 Class T5 which is what I did. I also use a cut down stock Camaro shifter, a Tilton 7/8" master cylinder and a stock Camaro slave cylinder from Napa. You may want to have the flywheel resurfaced and balanced. The clutch kit I used was for an 89 Camaro (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-hp1675-1a/applications/). It contained the pressure plate, disk, pilot bearing and throwout bearing. So you should be able to find a kit for your application. Suggest that you research Summit for a clutch kit as Summit provides a lot of details about fitment and application. The kits cover several years. You should buy a Haynes Camero manual as it will explain how to work on the Camaro transmisson and clutch. It will show how to install the clutch plate and throwout bearing correctly.

If you might give the Z to a grand kid why not restore it? A V8 Z for a kid is not a good idea.

Do you want others to make a decision for you that you might regret? Only you can make that decision based upon research and weighing the pros and cons. Start with reading every post concerning the swap you want to do. If you can't decide then don't do it.

I made a reaction disk from a rubber stopper of the correct diameter and thickness (approx 6mm). Just take the push rod to the hardware store and match it to a rubber stopper. Cut a 6mm thick section off the end of the stopper and JB Weld it to the push rod. Shape the stopper with sand paper to match the diameter of the push rod. It looks and functions like the original reaction disk.

What year T5? The T5 was made for a V6 and a V8. They are different. Is the T5 a World Class T5 or the older version? What flywheel do you have? Measure the T5 input shaft OD. Use a digital caliper from Harbor Freight Measure the diameter of the hole in the flywheel where the bushing goes. Use the digital caliper. You now have the data to go to the Napa Parts look up. Note: If you buy a new clutch kit they often come with the pilot bushing.