Miles

I ordered mine without studs. Now I am glad I pressed in my own studs. The guy that runs Chequered Flag has a good reputation. At $700 a set he should stand behind his products. Especially if there is only 200 miles on them.

98blackbell Can you post pictures of your brake set up?

Incomplete, vague and sometimes wrong answers on car websites is the norm. You may have to search for days getting a bit of information here and there and then draw your own conclusions. Do Google searches as well, e.g., Goodgle "240Z booster swaps" and you will get a number of hits. Do Google web and image searches.

Is the hosting company going to do the daily backups or will you have to find another hosting source?

Could you post a close up picture of the stud you pushed out. Show the knurled part of the stud. Also, a picture of the hole the stud came out of.

Do not weld the studs in place.

That is an assumption. The previous owner (PO) may have installed the wrong studs or screwed up the installation. Many horror stories here about mistakes made by the POs of these old cars. Contact Chequered Flag and see if they have ever had this problem or might offer a solution. But simply measuring the studs and installing new studs of the correct size should fix the problem unless the holes have become augered out. I have also had wheel studs loosen up when removing the lug nuts. Replacing the studs fixed the problem every time. Should work unless the holes have been screwed up. Even with that scenario there are still solutions. If you order new studs note that they come in different lengths.

Could be that you have the wrong diameter studs. Use a a caliper and measure the diameter of each stud and compare to the diameter of the correct studs. I have the Chequered Flag stub axles and installed the studs with a press - they are tight. Example stud: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-610-320/applications/make/nissan/model/240z

3ryce Be careful of so called brake upgrades you read about. Many of them result in worse brake performance than stock due to front/rear balance issues. Typically, these upgrades end up with too much front brake bias. Many have regretted doing one of the popular "upgrades". You should be able to find stock brake parts at MSA, Black Dragon and/or parts stores. Suggest you search/read all of the FAQs on brake swaps and search for brake booster swaps in the brake forum. It has all been covered many times here and on other Z websites such as ClassicZcars.com.

Good idea. Leave the meter hooked up and go back to the wires you most recently played with and unplug the connectors one at a time. Place the meter where you can see it as you unplug connectors/wires. Just be methodical and do one thing at at a time.

For about the last 12 hours I would get 404 errors when accessing Hybridz. Server problems again?

Unless you are south of the equator.

There are many good posts on how to wire the Painless harness into the Z. I recall some detailed posts on how to connect to the turn signal and to the headlight switches.

Had the same thing happen while driving and the engine quit. Popped the hood and spotted the ignition wire had slipped off the connector on the ballast resistor. Replaced all of the connectors at the ballast resistor.

Try the Motive Universal kit. It comes with a cap that fits everything. Just make sure the cap is tight before pumping up pressure. I have had mine for eight years. Note that the surgical type hoses rot such that they have to be relaced after about a year of use. Clear plastic hose works as a replacement, but becomes brittle in contact with brake fluid. http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/0101-Round-Universal-Bleeder-_p_132.html

Does not look right. Wrong Wilwood??? http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-8794

http://www.motiveproducts.com/?gclid=CPSpwKChncACFSyCMgodcS8AoA Works good. Several MC adaptors available.

There are some good posts on how to connect a Painless harness to the combo switch. Try searching on "Painless combo switch".........etc.... I recall seeing a diagram, schematic etc

Here are some useful links: http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://www.zcar.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm http://www.courtesyparts.com/1970-1973-240z-air-conditioning-kit-r134-freon-p-228048.html?cPath=7724_7747& http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Wick's book is aimed at restoration. It has details that no repair manual has. This book plus the FSM will save you hours of research and frustration.

To get the most out of HybridZ, study all of the FAQs as 99.99% of all swap questions have been answered in detail over the last 13 years. The more time you spend researching and planning, the easier and cheaper the swap will go. Buy these: How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. The book gives details about Z cars that are not covered in other manuals. Available at Amazon, MSA and Black Dragon Haines manual for 240Z. Buy the Jags that Run (JTR) book on 240z engine swaps. It covers 90% of engine swap details. Go to the JTR website: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html Download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your Z. Some are posted here or just do a web search. They are free. Do a search on HybridZ/web and download any electrical schematics you find. Some members have posted improved color coded schematics. Plan every detail before you take the car apart.

Here is more info on brake bias: Brake bias calculator: You can calculate bias manually or use a program for calculating it . I did mine manually and then used the calculator below and the results were very close. You need to collect all of the variables and then do your calculations. There are many threads on how to do the calcs. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/ Discussion on various brake combinations and resulting brake bias/balance: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113398-toyota-truck-calipers-ventilated-brake-rotors-mm-rear-disc-brakes/?hl=bias

Please follow up this thread with how the 280ZX calipers work out.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html

Its from the school of hard knocks.