Miles

More info is required to answer your question: What brand of weatherstrip are you using? Is it after market such as the Precision kit that MSA and others sell or is it parts store brand? If it is made for your specific Z there should be a 90 deg corner that only goes in one way and the bulb part faces the door. If you have one of the Precision kit door seals, there is an old and well documented problem (search) with the door seals being too thick. There is a recent discussion on door seals in the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z forum. Check it out.

From my build notes: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83080-new-weatherstrip-alternative/page-1 The kits sold by MSA and Black Dragon were made by a company called "Precision". The fitment problems with the windshield, door and hatch glass were known for years, but MSA and Black Dragon continued to sell them. The two 240Z kits MSA sold me (12 years ago and 5 years ago) was actually for a 280Z so it had some extra parts in it that the 240Z does not need. I was was told that the 280Z door seals would work in the 240Z, but they were obviously too thick. I used cheap Pep Boys door seal instead. The above link gives a p/n for a McMaster pinch seal that works and is cheap. Except for the windshield, door and hatch fitment problems the rest of the Precision kit seals worked fine. There is another company (Vintage Rubber) that is making 240Z/280Z seals: http://www.vintagerubber.com/

Use the search function as there are many fixes: Search: "mcmaster weatherstripping"

The Courtesy weatherstrips are Nissan OEM parts. Call before ordering to confirm in stock.

I got mine here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/rear-hatch-glass-seal-1970-1978-240z-260z-280z-seater-p-568960.html?cPath=7724_7754& http://www.courtesyparts.com/windshield-weather-strip-1970-1978-240z-260z-280z-seater-p-568959.html?cPath=7724_7754&

Many posts on this subject. Search "door seals" and/or "weatherstrip" in the interior and body forums. My experience with MSA weather strip kits (2) was that the windshield seal had gaps in the upper corners, the hatch seal was malformed in one corner and the door seals were too thick to allow the doors to close. I used Nissan OEM winshield and hatch seals which fit perfectly. For door seals I used parts store materials. Search as all of these problems have been documented with solutions.

Go here and read the entire website on SU carbs: http://www.ztherapy.com/ Also, buy the video "Just SUs". It will explain everything you need to know about maintaining the SU carb.

Would a fuel rated stainless steel braided hose work?

Go here and download a Factory Service Manual: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

I removed all of the smog crap from mine and plugged all of the holes with brass plugs. A Haines manual will tell you what each component is.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/su-carb-discussions/33472-su-carb-advice.html

I ordered mine without studs. Now I am glad I pressed in my own studs. The guy that runs Chequered Flag has a good reputation. At $700 a set he should stand behind his products. Especially if there is only 200 miles on them.

98blackbell Can you post pictures of your brake set up?

Incomplete, vague and sometimes wrong answers on car websites is the norm. You may have to search for days getting a bit of information here and there and then draw your own conclusions. Do Google searches as well, e.g., Goodgle "240Z booster swaps" and you will get a number of hits. Do Google web and image searches.

Is the hosting company going to do the daily backups or will you have to find another hosting source?

Could you post a close up picture of the stud you pushed out. Show the knurled part of the stud. Also, a picture of the hole the stud came out of.

Do not weld the studs in place.

That is an assumption. The previous owner (PO) may have installed the wrong studs or screwed up the installation. Many horror stories here about mistakes made by the POs of these old cars. Contact Chequered Flag and see if they have ever had this problem or might offer a solution. But simply measuring the studs and installing new studs of the correct size should fix the problem unless the holes have become augered out. I have also had wheel studs loosen up when removing the lug nuts. Replacing the studs fixed the problem every time. Should work unless the holes have been screwed up. Even with that scenario there are still solutions. If you order new studs note that they come in different lengths.

Could be that you have the wrong diameter studs. Use a a caliper and measure the diameter of each stud and compare to the diameter of the correct studs. I have the Chequered Flag stub axles and installed the studs with a press - they are tight. Example stud: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-610-320/applications/make/nissan/model/240z

3ryce Be careful of so called brake upgrades you read about. Many of them result in worse brake performance than stock due to front/rear balance issues. Typically, these upgrades end up with too much front brake bias. Many have regretted doing one of the popular "upgrades". You should be able to find stock brake parts at MSA, Black Dragon and/or parts stores. Suggest you search/read all of the FAQs on brake swaps and search for brake booster swaps in the brake forum. It has all been covered many times here and on other Z websites such as ClassicZcars.com.

Good idea. Leave the meter hooked up and go back to the wires you most recently played with and unplug the connectors one at a time. Place the meter where you can see it as you unplug connectors/wires. Just be methodical and do one thing at at a time.

For about the last 12 hours I would get 404 errors when accessing Hybridz. Server problems again?

Unless you are south of the equator.

There are many good posts on how to wire the Painless harness into the Z. I recall some detailed posts on how to connect to the turn signal and to the headlight switches.

Had the same thing happen while driving and the engine quit. Popped the hood and spotted the ignition wire had slipped off the connector on the ballast resistor. Replaced all of the connectors at the ballast resistor.