Miles

http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/324969-14-wire-wheels.html

350Z Silver Alloy Cost: $300.00

I had the same problem and solved it with a Moroso water flow restrictor: http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/63440/10002/-1 Try the middle sized restrictor.

There has to be a problem with how the caliper mounts to the strut. Note rotor not centered in attached picture. Also, see hub to strut measurement picture. I am now considering milling about 1mm off the caliper bracket where it bolts to the strut. That would pull the caliper inboard which would center the rotor in the torque member slot.

That 23/32" was a typo fortunately. It took me about 2 weeks to find that dimension. I knew it was lurking somewhere in an old post.

I found a reference to the dimension between the hub mounting point and the stub axle flange here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/4672-rear-disc-bracket-fabrication-some-comments-and-a-question/?hl=%2Bcaliper+%2Brubbing+%2Brotor&do=findComment&comment=35335 See post #2 in link above. The dimension is 45.2374mm or 1 25/32" on a stock 240Z. See attached picture. The dimension matches my hub to stub axle flange distance perfectly. So there is no problem with the stub axle position relative to the hub. This can only mean that the custom MSA mounting bracket was machined 1mm too thick where it bolts to the strut. The rotor is definately not centered in the torque member slot. The rotor is approximately 1mm closer to the inboard edge of the slot of the torque member i.e., the torque member is pushed outboard 1mm by the custom mounting bracket. Looks like I'll be returning the brackets.

Do a search for squeeking. Many hits.

Make, model and year of car?

All of your answers and more in this book: How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble At: Amazon, MSA, Black Dragon etc. Also, join ClassicZcars.com where there are many how-to threads

post pictures

http://www.datsunstore.com/bias-proportioning-valve-7072-used-p-351.html

Many people are disappointed with the 280ZX swap and the unintended consequences of rear disk "upgrades". Post your request in the parts wanted forum for best results and to avoid the shed.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38499-brake-upgrade-faq/ http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/73-parts-wanted/

Always include details about your car when asking for help: Make, model, year, engine swap and other modifications done to the car. Most electric fuel pumps make noise. How you mount them can reduce noise inside the car. I like the noise as it is a sign my pump is alive. If you start rewiring the fuel pump be sure not to bypass any of the stock fuel pump safety features. You don't want the fuel pump to continue running if you wreck the car. You need to start a collection of Z car factory service manuals and links to Z clubs and parts suppliers. Google and HybridZ searchs will find 95% of them Post some pictures of the fuel pump installation.

Before "fixing the problem" ask "why is the pump making noise?" And then fix the problem. A Painless Fuel Pump Relay is advisable for any electric fuel pump installation on a Z car.

Please post your freind's contact information.

Contact information? Ask the supplier to post in the vendors section with contact info, prices, pictures and specifications.

Do you mean the bracket that is part of the caliper assembly or the bracket that bolts the whole caliper to the strut? Are the holes lining up ok" What brand adaptor brackets are you using?

Only you can plan your project. Educate yourself. Buy the book "How to Restore your Datsun Z car" by Wick Humble. It is a 40 year old car start at the bottom and work up if you want a safe and reliable car. Paint and interior would be last on my list.

What year 300ZX? If you are not a mechanic the 300ZX can be be very expensive to maintain. Call some shops and ask them how much it costs to do various repairs to get a feel for what you might be in for. It is not the best choice as a first car for a teenager. You will probably beat it to death or wreck it. Get a 4runner instead.

Too many people never follow up with a solution. Be sure to post your solution(s) once you are able to get a firm pedal.

Bleeding a Z can be very frustrating judging by the number of threads dealing with that subject. If all else fails, fill a swimming pool with brake fluid and immurse your car in it for a few days!

With Maxima and 240SX calipers I found that I had to unbolt the caliper from the bracket and bleed it while shaking, tapping and moving the caliper in various orientations to get the air out. Unless you have a pressure bleeder you have to block the piston with something so it doesn't push out. I use a caliper piston tool (Harber Freight $30) turned all the way in to hold the piston while pumping the pedal. Use Earls Solo Speed Bleeders or other brands of bleeders that have a check valve built into them on the calipers and master cylinder.

The off-center rotor is being caused by either the custom Maxima caliper bracket or the position of the outer stub axle flange relative to the brake backing plate mount. I need to verify the dimension between the outer stub axle flange and the brake backing plate mounting face per attached picture.

So 17 inch wheels is a reality. How is clearance between the caliper and the hub? Also, what did you have to do extend the parking brake cable? What front brake set up are you using? Thanks for posting.