Miles

KTM No problem. I have been experimenting with different rear brake and master cylinder combinations.

KTM What master cylinder and booster are you using?

Look at the connections under the fuse box.

Stop. Don't modify anything. Get a schematic and study the wiring and internal connections of the switch until you understand how it is supposed to work. Then use a volt meter to figure out what is happening. Only then will you solve the problem. If the PO screwed up the wiring - fix it. Look at your fuse box for signs of burning/melting. There may be a clue there.

Add your car info to your signature line so it is always available. See mine above. I keep several repaired TS and head light combo switches on hand for trouble shooting and quick repairs.

1. Read and study FAQs and old posts for at least 40 hours since all of these issues have been discussed in detail over the last 10 years. If the search function doesn't work, do a Google search. Type: site: hybridz.org key words 2. Save your money. Stock brakes are fine. 3. Since the car is close to 40 years old rebuild/refresh the stock brakes and add some good street pads e.g., Hawk blues etc. Add SS braided brake lines. 4. So called brake upgrades don't always improve performance - they can actually reduce performance. 5. Always consider that installing "big brakes" can result in an unbalanced system. The stock brakes were engineered and balanced. Most "hobby" brake upgrades are not. Make haste slowly.

year? 240Z or 280Z? Most likely the it is the TS switch since it controls the lights that are not working. On a 240Z the brake light circuit is cut in and out by the TS switch in turn mode. There is also a common power wire. Take the TS switch apart and examine the copper contacts as for: Carbon build up. Clean with fine file. Bent or slightly out of alignment contacts. Especially the copper rocker which has four contacts. Broken or unsoldered wires There are several "how to" threads here, ClassicZcars.com and on the web for repairing the TS switch. Note there are small parts and a very small ball bearing that can go bouncing out of the switch when you open it. Do a search.

Also, check Dorman products for longer studs. Installation: Front: Put hub in vise. Knock out the stud with a hammer. Insert stud in hole and pull it through using an open lug nut and washers to take up the slack as the stud pulls through the hub. I used an impact wrench, but a ratchet would work as well. Rear: There is just enough room to replace stock studs with stock drum brakes with the rear hubs on the car. Knock out the stud with a hammer and pull the new stud through using a lug nut. You might be able to get a longer stud in the same way. No problem at all If you have disk brakes. From my notes: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/52907-wheel-studsreplacements/?&p=473102&hl=%2Bwheel+%2Bstuds&fromsearch=1

Check for leaks around the throttle shafts. Check if the needle valve in the fuel bowel is sticking.

Here is an on-line brake bias calculator that reduces the hassle of running calculations over and over each time a parameter is changed e.g, master cylinder diameter, rotor size, caliper piston area etc. Go here: http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/

Make and model of car plus mods would help. How many turns out for each carb on the mixture adjusters? Not what you want to hear, but you may not find resolution in any forum/blog. Without understanding how the SU carbs work and how to tune them it is unlikley that you will solve the problem. Go to Z Therapy and buy the $25 DVD or tape "Just SUs" at http://www.ztherapy.com/

After missing several deliveries while at work and driving 30 miles to the nearest FedEx I got a UPS box five minutes from home. Not expensive.

On my 72 240z I installed the SPAL switches in the flip up fuse cover.

Also, if you are using metal flake beware of making tiger stripes in the base coat like I did. My spray technique was off somehow.

Down load a FSM from the Links forum on HybridZ and also get a Haynes maual for your car. The Haynes manual has an electrical schematic. Trace the affected circuits on the schematic and check for broken wires and loose connectors. Fusible link: http://www.zcarparts.com/ or try Black Dragon, Napa etc.

Meant to paste: Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

I just got over 300 hits on 280ZX V8 swaps here: Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board You will see that there are other companies that provide swap kits in addition to JTR.

At minimum you should get a Haynes repair manual and a FSM to help diagnose/repair SU carbs etc. go here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/

Do a Google search as there are several "How to rebuild/tune SU carbs" threads on several Z car websites. "This morning I swapped the carbs onto the 77'. It did fire up, but not very well. It was popping and back firing thru the carbs so I didnt get any further with it." This indicates a too lean condition. Do a search for SU mixture adjustments.

See my reply to your original post. Buy up several combo switches and repair them. As a Z owner you are going to need them.

I have never seen a remanufactured Z light switch. Last time I checked MSA and Black Dragon, the light switch was NLA. Options: Buy up a few used T/S - Headlight switches and repair them. I keep a few repaired switches around for testing and replacement. If a light problem comes up you can swap in a repaired switch. There is also a member here named Dave who used to provide a switch repair service. He goes by Zsondabrain over at ClassicZCars.com and he also has a thread in the vendors forum on HybridZ for his Z headlight harness (recommended) and other Z electrical upgrades. Dave's headlight harness takes the load off of the switch and allows the use of higher wattage headlight upgrades. Edit: You can do a HybridZ member search for Dave: HLS30-08077

Alignment and/or spacing with how the starter is installed issue? Can you reinstall the stock flywheel and refit the starter? If the starter works with the stock flywheel then it is the after market flywheel.

Use the V6 T5 you have as a core and go buy a rebuilt WC T5 for the Camaro V8 from a rebuild shop.

No need to rebuild the calipers. You can get rebuilt calipers cheap e.g., A1 Cardone from local parts stores, MSA or Black Dragon. Did you check the steering rack bushings? Have someone turn the steering wheel left and right while you watch for movement of the steering rack. When they rot away the steering rack moves around which in turn allows other steering components to move. If they are shot, replace them with polyurethane bushings from MSA or Black Dragon. I suspect that when you start replacing/rebuilding things you will find the source of the grinding.

Things that can grind up front when moving and/or turning: Wheel bearings. Loose calipers rubbing on rotors Worn pads rubbing on rotors Put the car on jack stands and check above items. Since this is a 40 year old car of unknown condition you may want to put it on jack stands and check out everything under the car: brakes, suspension, drive shaft, half shafts etc. Then make a list of all the repairs required to make it reliable and safe car to drive. As a minimum: Replace the strut inserts (shocks). Include replacing the bearings on top of the front struts. Replace all rubber suspension bushings with polyurethane bushings including the mustache bar and steering rack bushings. Replace old sagging springs. Rebuild the brakes. Install new ball joints These items will make a night and day difference in how the car handles and will eliminate a constant stream of annoying problems/noises from popping up on a daily basis.