Miles

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102754-a-one-inch-diameter-brake-master-cylinder-for-the-s30-z-cars/

The attached file should answer most of your questions. If you haven't done so, download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your Z. Buy a Haynes Manual for your Z. Buy a copy of How to Restore Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. Available at MSA, Amazon, Black Dragon etc. If you haven't already done so, completely rebuild your brakes including new hoses. It will solve most problems associated with an old car that may not have had the brakes serviced in years and will improve the safe operation of the car. The books above will guide you. BR Brake System.pdf

Try opening the bleed screws on the MC. If fluid pushes out and the car rolls without resistance then most likely the push rod is adjusted too long. A push rod adjusted too long will not allow fluid to return to the MC after braking. Google how a MC works to see why. Suggest that you spend several hours searching and reading in th brake forum as this has been covered many times.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvcJ_lU_VpQ many more on Youtube

Visibility is good.

No. Due to the shape and design they have limited range of adjustment creating blind spots. The mirror is too small. I replaced the bullet mirrors with just basic old school mirrors from MSA. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-1164

Yes, I thought that #16 was clear and concise as possible.

Look closely at the picture in post #16. Look on the outside of the hub for the code per the picture. The hub is the big round part with a hole in it on the strut that the bearings go in. All you need to do is to find the stamped code on the hub and then someone can send you a spacer. You have lost both spacers?

The letter code is stamped on the hub and the spacer has to match it. Look at the hub.

What letter code do you need A, B, C?

The hub is stamped with an A, B or C. Clean the dirt and paint off of the hub and verify which spacer you need. If you have the wrong spacer to begin with measuring it will not solve your problem! You should download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) which is where the picture I posted above is from. Also, do a search for "stub axle" in the Drivetrain forum as there are several posts dealing with stub axle problems, bearing issues, installation, warped flanges, hub letter codes etc.

Do you have the correct spacers that go between the bearings? The spacers are different lengths and are marked A, B or C. The letter has to match the letter stamped on the hub assembly. Post some pictures of the stub axles with the bearings. Bearing Preload: You are aware that the specs inlude a torque limit based on using a spring scale to indicate effort required to turn the axle. When that limit is reached you stop tightening the retainer nut. It could be that you are over tightening the retainer nut.

pull the tank and measure it

It still sounds like the reaction disk is missing or there is air in the MC or the calipers. Have you bled the MC while it is in the car? Just run plastic tubes from the bleed screws back into the tanks. If you suspect there is still air in the MC you may have to remove it and bench bleed it carefully. See the Brake Forum for many write ups on the bench bleeding set up. In order to completely bleed the 240SX calipers I had to remove the the calipers and hold them so the bleeders were pointed up and move the caliper around using a pressure bleeder and/or someone pushing the brake pedal. Be sure to block the piston with a block of wood so it won't blow out when applying pressure. If the piston blows all the way out you will have a problem. If you adjust the push rod out too far and lock the brakes, open the MC bleeder screws to relieve the pressure and limp home and re-adjust the push rod and re-test until it feels right without locking the brakes. To adjust the push rod, unbolt the MC leaving the lines connected and push it to the side to access the push rod and make small incremental adjustments.

Verify that the push rod is properly adjusted. If it is too short the brakes will feel exactly like the reaction disk has fallen out. On my Wilwood 1 inch install, the push rod is adjusted with about 1mm space between the end of the push rod and the MC piston. As I recall the rod length measurement is 13mm - 15mm from the aluminum spacer on the booster to the end of the push rod. Remember that adusting the push rod out too far will cause your brakes to lock up (hydraulic fluid can not return due to the return ports in the MC being blocked). Search the brake section for "push rod adjustment" for methods and tips etc. Also, did you install the aluminum spacer between the booster and the MC? Recently another member here had the exact same issues as you and the problem was caused because he forgot to install the spacer.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html Search the driveline forum as your question will be answered there. Many posts!

You may have damaged the bearing hammering it onto the axle. For grease, try Red Line Oil CV-2 Synthetic Grease.

Was the bearing pressed on or hammered onto the axle? What type of wheel bearing grease was used?

Check out the Ford forum: http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/15-ford-v8z-tech-board/

A defective check valve would not cause your problem. Check list: Did you bench bleed the MC? Many threads on this. Did you get all of the air out of each caliper? On my 240SX calipers I had to remove them and tilt/shake them to get the air out. Do you know that the 15/16 MC requires adjusting the push rod out i.e., longer? Many threads on this. Did you install the aluminum spacer between the booster and the MC? I have seen people do this and then wonder why the pedal throw is so long.

Whats the fun in that? Sometimes I couldn't get the premade tubing in the dimension I needed at the parts store so I finally bought the flaring tool and a roll of tubing. Very handy when making a lot of custom lines.

Here is a flaring tool that works: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70081/overview/

Datsun uses inverted flare not bubble flare (BF). The Datsun brake lines will not seal if your PV is BF.

Go to the brake/FAQ forums and read up on "missing reaction disk". Many many threads on your exact problem. Example: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/?hl=%2Breaction+%2Bdisk

Good info. Always include this kind of data when asking for input. If the fitting threads are bad it may not be turning in far enough to seal the flare which could also allow the line to move slightly. I have had leaks from fittings and deformed flares. Just re-flare the line with a new fitting or you can get a ready-made brake line from a parts store and replace the suspect line and fitting.