Miles

That 23/32" was a typo fortunately. It took me about 2 weeks to find that dimension. I knew it was lurking somewhere in an old post.

I found a reference to the dimension between the hub mounting point and the stub axle flange here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/4672-rear-disc-bracket-fabrication-some-comments-and-a-question/?hl=%2Bcaliper+%2Brubbing+%2Brotor&do=findComment&comment=35335 See post #2 in link above. The dimension is 45.2374mm or 1 25/32" on a stock 240Z. See attached picture. The dimension matches my hub to stub axle flange distance perfectly. So there is no problem with the stub axle position relative to the hub. This can only mean that the custom MSA mounting bracket was machined 1mm too thick where it bolts to the strut. The rotor is definately not centered in the torque member slot. The rotor is approximately 1mm closer to the inboard edge of the slot of the torque member i.e., the torque member is pushed outboard 1mm by the custom mounting bracket. Looks like I'll be returning the brackets.

Do a search for squeeking. Many hits.

Make, model and year of car?

All of your answers and more in this book: How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble At: Amazon, MSA, Black Dragon etc. Also, join ClassicZcars.com where there are many how-to threads

post pictures

http://www.datsunstore.com/bias-proportioning-valve-7072-used-p-351.html

Many people are disappointed with the 280ZX swap and the unintended consequences of rear disk "upgrades". Post your request in the parts wanted forum for best results and to avoid the shed.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38499-brake-upgrade-faq/ http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/73-parts-wanted/

Always include details about your car when asking for help: Make, model, year, engine swap and other modifications done to the car. Most electric fuel pumps make noise. How you mount them can reduce noise inside the car. I like the noise as it is a sign my pump is alive. If you start rewiring the fuel pump be sure not to bypass any of the stock fuel pump safety features. You don't want the fuel pump to continue running if you wreck the car. You need to start a collection of Z car factory service manuals and links to Z clubs and parts suppliers. Google and HybridZ searchs will find 95% of them Post some pictures of the fuel pump installation.

Before "fixing the problem" ask "why is the pump making noise?" And then fix the problem. A Painless Fuel Pump Relay is advisable for any electric fuel pump installation on a Z car.

Please post your freind's contact information.

Contact information? Ask the supplier to post in the vendors section with contact info, prices, pictures and specifications.

Do you mean the bracket that is part of the caliper assembly or the bracket that bolts the whole caliper to the strut? Are the holes lining up ok" What brand adaptor brackets are you using?

Only you can plan your project. Educate yourself. Buy the book "How to Restore your Datsun Z car" by Wick Humble. It is a 40 year old car start at the bottom and work up if you want a safe and reliable car. Paint and interior would be last on my list.

What year 300ZX? If you are not a mechanic the 300ZX can be be very expensive to maintain. Call some shops and ask them how much it costs to do various repairs to get a feel for what you might be in for. It is not the best choice as a first car for a teenager. You will probably beat it to death or wreck it. Get a 4runner instead.

Too many people never follow up with a solution. Be sure to post your solution(s) once you are able to get a firm pedal.

Bleeding a Z can be very frustrating judging by the number of threads dealing with that subject. If all else fails, fill a swimming pool with brake fluid and immurse your car in it for a few days!

With Maxima and 240SX calipers I found that I had to unbolt the caliper from the bracket and bleed it while shaking, tapping and moving the caliper in various orientations to get the air out. Unless you have a pressure bleeder you have to block the piston with something so it doesn't push out. I use a caliper piston tool (Harber Freight $30) turned all the way in to hold the piston while pumping the pedal. Use Earls Solo Speed Bleeders or other brands of bleeders that have a check valve built into them on the calipers and master cylinder.

The off-center rotor is being caused by either the custom Maxima caliper bracket or the position of the outer stub axle flange relative to the brake backing plate mount. I need to verify the dimension between the outer stub axle flange and the brake backing plate mounting face per attached picture.

So 17 inch wheels is a reality. How is clearance between the caliper and the hub? Also, what did you have to do extend the parking brake cable? What front brake set up are you using? Thanks for posting.

Attached is a detailed flow chart that I have been using to diagnose rear caliper dragging problems. It seems complete. As a long shot, I have been considering checking out the brake differential pressure switch located under the master cylinder. If you look at the attached pictures it appears that the switch is designed to recenter itself (note springs at each end) once brake pressure is released. I don't see any mechanical feature of the switch that would lock it once it is activated. However, since the switch is over 40 years old the seals may have erroded allowing fluid from the front and rear circuits to leak/mix into the wrong sections of the switch. It may be silted up with dirt as well. Today I am pulling the master cylinder and the brake switch for inspection. If the switch is bad I'll replace it with a 3-way distribution block to connect the front brake lines. The rear brake lines can be joined with a metric union. To test that the return ports in the MC are not blocked I'll use a large syringe and force fluid back through the outlet ports and watch for fluid filling the tanks.

Have you looked at the Datsun Parts LLC rear caliper with intregal parking brake?

Both the pedal and MC push rod are adjusted real loose. Pulled the check valve when I installed the MC. I am starting to think it is time to recheck the Wilwood master cylinder. In the last three years I have had two Wilwood MCs leak internally. The second one leaked out of the rear seal into the booster with less than 500 miles on it. Are you getting the AZC Wilwood kit with the parking brake?

I did that twice today. Once with the PV valve set to full rear and then again with the PV set to max front bias. The wheels still got hot. It is worse if I use the brakes normally. So the pads must be dragging. Even though the pistons glide in and out of the bore easily the seals must be hanging them up just enough to heat up the rotors. I see a lot of complaints about this type of caliper dragging/seizing up on the Nissan 240SX and Maxima websites.