Miles

Another member also suggested pulling the Maxima calipers, point the bleeder up while shaking and moving the caliper around. I'll give it a try. Thanks

Summit sells 15" Ansen Sprint slotted mags.

1972 240Z SBC Stock front brakes. Maxima rear calipers 280Z booster Hawk HP pads For the third time, a new Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder has leaked past the rear seal soaking the booster. I had a stock 7/8 inch MC on hand so I thought I would try it . Others have reported that they use a stock 7/8 inch MC with 280ZX rear calipers and that the pedal travel is long and a bit squishy. But since I had the 7/8 inch MC I tought I would give it a try. I removed the residual check valve from the rear brake outlet port of the stock MC. The booster push rod was set right and the reaction disk was epoxied in place (I have lost two). I now make reaction disks by cutting the ends off of rubber stoppers. I bench bled the MC and used a power bleeder while moving the Maxima calipers around to get the air out. Re-bled it after sitting overnight using speed bleeders so I think I got all of the air out. I just got back from a test run with the stock MC/Maxima set up. Not good. The pedal travels about 3/4 the way before effective braking starts and, as others have noted, the pedal feels squishy. I am not comfortable with it, so I'll order another Wilwood 1 inch MC and just plan on checking it often. For the Maxima calipers, the stock MC volume is too small and the 1 inch MC has the right volume, but is too stiff. Actually, the 15/16 MC is probably the best compromise, but NLA. In my Hybrid search I found at least three members who use the 7/8 inch MC with stock fronts and 280ZX/Maxima rear calipers and are happy with the pedal travel and feel.

Re: SU carbs Go to Z Therapy and buy the video "Just SUs". It will explain the function and maintenance of SU carbs. You should also buy a Haynes 240Z manual which is available at parts stores, Amazon and etc. http://www.ztherapy.com/ Buy "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" by Wick Humble". It has detailed information about Z cars that the FSM and Haynes manuals don't have.

Also try Motor Sports Auto (MSA) and Black Dragon. MSA has some OEM parts. MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SDC03B

If you haven't done so, look at all of the brake FAQs and stickies and spend a few days in the brake section as many of your questions have been covered before in great detail. Be sure to study the posts dealing with booster and master cylinder issues. Things like a missing reaction disk or push rod adjustment can trip you up. The 280Z is about 40 years old. As with any car that old, just plan on rebuilding the stock brakes from top to bottom. As for SS brake lines, I recall that Summit Racing sells a set for the 240Z. Well maintained stock brakes with good pads/shoes are fine for most driving conditions. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and purchase a Haynes Manual.

Make, model and year of car would help. Also, state what mods have been done to the car when asking for help.

Return the wires!

I used agu fuses on my first Z. Here are some other ideas from a Google image search: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&biw=1344&bih=694&site=imghp&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=maxi+fuse+block&oq=maxi+fuse+&gs_l=img.1.1.0l3j0i10i24j0i24l6.40313.45201.0.48153.10.10.0.0.0.0.77.694.10.10.0.ehm_pq_signedout%2Chmss2%3Dfalse%2Chmmql%3D2...0...1.1.22.img..0.10.691.wbP7mhGA22o

Your search for information should start here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111202-hybridz-forum-rules-read-now-before-posting/ Go to the Jags that Run (JTR) website and purchase the Datsun 240Z V8 Conversion Manual as it will answer 90% of your questions about the swap. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html Spend a lot of time reading the V8 forum. Almost every V8 swap question or problem has been covered in the last ten years.

Just hold the head with an Allen wrench while tightening the nut. Lots of room.

I bought mine from Rainbow Fasteners in Sacramento. Website: http://www.rainbowfasteners.com/search/ They had to special order the bolts from Rainbow Fasteners as the required shoulder length was not common. They also supplied the nyloc nuts. Before you order, carefully measure the width of the two flanges together to get the optimal length shoulder. The bolts I received had the threaded portion run out of threads just before they reached full torque so put a washer under the head and all was well (see threads pictured in above post). That was four years ago and no problems have come up. There may be other fastener suppliers closer to you. I chose Rainbow because they were the only local supplier that could get the bolts with the correct shoulder length. As I recall I also researched MacMaster Carr and Grainger, but they could not supply the bolts.

None of my local sources stocked 8mm x 30 mm shoulder socket bolts. I had to order the shoulder socket bolts from a fastener supplier. Also try Dorman etc..

Don't report it. Just repair the damage. While sitting at a red light an elderly woman in front of me put her car in reverse when the light changed and backed into my left front fender/bumper area. My insurance company (AAA) wanted to total my 72 240Z until I said that I was restoring the car. As soon as I said "restoring" the agent said "well in that case we will repair the damage". If the agent had decided to total the car I would have replaced the fender and the bumper myself and not filed the claim.

Here is the link about using cap/shoulder bolts: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81101-driveshaft-bolt-size/ Also, the JTR manual recommends using socket head bolts 8mm x 30mm long with self locking nuts because it is difficult to get a box wrench around hex head bolts. If you are not sure about the length, just mate the flanges together and measure the thickness across both flanges at the bolt holes. That will be the required length of the shoulder portion of the bolt. Notice that all of the stock driveshaft and half-shaft bolts are soulder bolts.

The bolts are in shear. There was a discussion on this subject. I'll see if I can find it and post a link.

My 72 240z had a clicking sound coming from the drum brakes. The rate of clicking increased with the speed of the wheels. I pulled the drums to inspect the brake components (all new) and noticed that the shoes, retaining springs, springs connected to the shoes all "float" inside the drum. I figured that the if the shoes wore unevenly or if the drum was slightly out-of-round that could cause the internal parts to move as the drum rotated making clicking/scuffing sounds as the parts moved. Inspection showed that nothing was wrong. Later I swapped the drums for disk brakes and the clicking went away. The other clicking/scuffing sound that comes to mind is where the dust sheild on the flange that the half-shaft bolts to on the strut becomes bent and will rub on the outside of the stub axle housing as the shaft turns. The dust shield is thin metal and can become bent. This happened on my 240Z. I located where the dust shield was bent and lifted it away from the stub axle housing with a screw driver. No more scuffing noise. I have owned two 72 240 Zs with completely rebuilt rear suspension and drivetrain components. Both cars had R180 to R200 differential swaps. They both had a variety of noises coming from the rear at different times, but it never affected drivability. The differentials seem to be a common source of clunks. Just do a complete inspection of every bolt and component and renew as indicated. Clunking and other noises are a common complaint on Z cars and are well documented here and at other Z car websites. Recommend that you spend some significant time reading in the Drivetrain forums here and at Classic Z Cars website as there are several sources of noise comming from the back of the car. Also do a web search for "240Z clunk" or other such terms and you will see that there is a lot of data available on Z car rear noises.

Re: Driveshaft bolt access Try socket shoulder bolts (allen head) instead of threaded bolts. The socket shoulder bolts I use have long non-threaded shoulders so there are no threads between the mating surfaces of the flanges. I install them so that the head faces to the rear and the threaded part and nuts face the front of the car. Much easier to access the head with an allen wrench in a tight space than common bolt heads. The non-threaded shoulder part of the bolt handles shear loads better than a threaded bolt. Use with nylock nuts. See picture of socket shoulder bolt. As can be seen the threaded part of the bolt is not subject to shearing where the flanges bolt together (the shoulder length is equal to the width of the two flanges when mated). There have been some discussions on this subject in the drivetrain forum etc..

Make, model and year of car? List of any mods done to the car. Hard to diagnose without basic info.

Check out MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SSSC01C02/23-4370

Time get another LCA at a junk yard.

Do you mean the dog leg in front of the rear wheels? Did you look at the Black Dragon website for panels?

The popping and stalling (lean sag) suggests a too lean setting for the carbs. Assuming that you have SU carbs: Try adjusting the the carb mixture: There is a mixture adjustment wheel at the bottom of each carb. It has click stops as you turn it. 1. With the engine off: On each carb turn the adjustement wheel all the way counter clockwise (looking top down) until it stops. This is the max lean position of the carb and your starting point for adjustment. Mark each adjustment wheel so you can count the number of turns. 2. With the engine off: Next turn each adjuster clockwise (looking top down) 2.5 turns. You are now 2.5 turns in the rich direction. This is your starting position to fine tune the mixture. 3. With the engine running. Play with the mixture adustment until the popping and stalling (lean sag) goes away. This should be somewhere between 2.5 and 3 turns out on each mixture adjustment wheel. In the end, one carb may have to be adjusted richer or leaner then the other until you reach the best setting. If you are not familiar with SU carbs you need to purchase the ZTherapy video "Just SUs". The video will explain exactly how to adjust and rebuild the SU carb. Your carbs may need to be rebuilt. You may have other issues, but the above procedure should get your engine running in most cases.

And your car is a (yr) ________________. Carb or FI? Other details?

Does the "glass" resemble fine copper dust? If so, it is coming from the copper horn contact you bent so it would work. Seen it before with after market steering wheels. The crunching noise is most likely the copper contact rubbing on the contact patch of the steering wheel. On the ignition switch you have two options: 1- You can replace just the ignition key switch module. Source: MSA, Black Dragon, Autozone etc. 2- You can replace the entire ignition switch/locking assembly. Same sources as above. The problem could also be due to either a worn key or tumblers in the key switch module. You may be able to have the ignition key switch module serviced by a locksmith, but then you would still have a 40 year old switch. Missing steering lock? some people remove the steering lock for a variety of reasons such as if they are going to race the car.