Miles

Your car won't run because the battery is discharged to the point that it can not provide enough voltage to the ignition system when other loads are placed on it. The battery is most likely bad such that it may never hold a charge. It may be discharging internally. Have the battery checked. If it is ok then put it on a charger for several hours while checking the voltage. If it is bad then replace it. With a volt meter you can check to see if there is a current draw from the battery when the car is off.

If you are new to 240Z cars then buy "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" by Wick Humble. This book explains how to take the car apart, restore it and reassemble it properly. It contains many photographs that detail how to remove and replace parts that no other books cover. It will save you countless hours. You can get it at Motor Sports Auto (MSA) or possibly Amazon. Approx $20.00

Also, while the plugs are out do a compression test. The L24 engine in my 72 240 was my daily driver for eight years and it had over 200K miles on it when I did the SBC swap. So you may get some more miles out of your Z once it is running.

While the plugs are out shoot some oil into the cylinders. Replace any cracked/dry rubber fuel lines in the engine bay before starting the car.

Hitachi gear reduction starter p/n PSL100 @$160.00. Picture shows starter and Hooker block hugger headers.

There is no simple solution. If you are not familiar with brake repair take the car to a brake shop. Better safe then sorry. Put the car on jack stands, pull the all of the wheels and drums and determine why the wheels are locked before using a hammer. I suspect that the wheel cylnders (which slide in slots in the backing plates) are rusted and can't slide when the parking brake is released. You will need a a FSM or Haynes manual to understand how to move the adjuster to loosen the brake shoes in order to remove the drums. Refresh the old brake system: As with any 40 year old car, you should anticipate inspecting and repairing the front/rear brakes as a matter of routine if you want to someday drive the car. While you are at it, replace the master cylinder, all of the rubber flex lines with SS flex lines and replace the booster. Note on removing stuck drums: the drums may be stuck to the hub (common) such that you can not get them off to inspect the brakes - a subject that has been covered many times and can be found by searching here and at Classic Z cars. Get a Haynes manual for a 240Z in addition to the factory service manual and study the brake sections. Become a member at Classic Z Cars as they deal more with stock Z maintenance and repair issues.

That nut usually spins down by hand. Sounds like you cross threaded the nut. Two options: 1. Attach the correct size socket to a six inch extension and long breaker bar (longer the better). The braker bar should provide enough twisting force to back the nut off. Then chase the threads on the steering shaft (Ace Hardware sells the die). Buy a new nut and try it on the threads after you clean them up. or 2. Use a Dremmel with a cutting wheel, if there is room, and split the nut without damaging the threads on the steering shaft. Then chase the threads on the steering shaft. Buy a new nut and try it on the threads after you clean them up. If you screwed the threads up on the steering shaft beyond repair then you will have to replace the shaft. In the future run that nut down by hand before putting a wrench on it.

Here is some data from Classic Z Cars: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/43195-brake-rotor-not-fitting-240z-vs-280z-hub.html

Remove the glovebox, reach in and pull the sockets. Note some replacement bulbs are too long and will not fit. If you can't reach the bulbs you can also pull the heater control grill. Search here and at Classic Z car for the correct bulbs. I removed the green filters so bulb size is not an issue. Brighter too.

The Zsondabrain (Dave) / MSA headlight harness plugs into the stock harness connectors. Since your connectors are bad the MSA harness won't help. You may want to post in the Parts Wanted forum for a replacement headlight harness and then add the msa relay harness later. Search the vendors forum for "headlight harness" and you will see Dave's ad for the harness he makes and sells through MSA.

Agree. As stated before: CFM in = CFM out

There can be play in the four bolt stub axle flange that the half shaft bolts to. The splines in the stub axle flange can get sloppy. Set the brake and try to turn the four bolt stub axle flange. See 4 bolt flange: http://www.zparts.com/zptech/illustrations/750w/DCP_1490rw1s.jpg

Others can't see that line. Not to worry unless you screw up.

Mostly stopping performance. Think about it. If the fronts are doing most of the work then the rear brakes are not contributing to the over all braking performance. On factory cars the braking systems are engineered to optimize front and rear brake performance. The popular brake "upgrades" we do are not engineered brake systems such that everything is balanced and works together. The best advise I can give is for folks to read the many complaints in the brake forum about how unbalanced the Toyota vented front and 240SX rear brake combination swaps are. Also, for those who are analytically inclined, do the math before choosing a brake upgrade. Example: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103856-need-help-with-240z-brake-bias-with-4-piston-toyota-and-240sx-brakes/ Unfortunately, there is very little engineering/performance data for the various "brake upgrades" that come to us by word of mouth on these car web sites. Several people here have proposed side by side tests for the various "brake upgrades" to provide comparitive data. Wouldn't be great if we could go to Summit Racing and buy a complete engineered brake system like what is advertised for Fords and Chevys?

If he does the vented Toyota front swap he will have created a very well documented problem with overly biased front brakes. That the 240Sx calipers can't keep up with the vented Toyota front brakes has been discussed extensively here. Additionally, he will have to install a one inch Wilwood MC to provide the extra fluid volume required by the Toyota vented calipers etc.

Car: 72 240Z 350 SBC daily driver. Never race etc. I have been experimenting with various brake combinations for the last six years and believe that well maintained stock brakes are just fine for a daily driver even with a SBC 350 swap. After six years of experimenting to balance the front MM ventedToyota caliper and the MM 240SX rear caliper set up I have gone back to stock front brakes. My MM vented front/240SX rear set up included a 280Z eight inch booster, a one inch Wilwood MC and Wilwood proportioning valve (PV). The proportioning valve was useless since I, like many others, found that the 240SX calipers will not keep up with the Toyota vented front brakes thereby requiring the PV to be opened all the way to the rear. The main reason I installed the proportioning valve was to experiment with rear brake pads to better balance the front and rear brakes. So my current set up is now: stock front calipers, 1 inch Wilwood MC, 280Z 8 inch booster, Wilwood PV and MM 240SX rear calipers with Hawk HP pads all around. The brakes are now better balanced and perform well except the one inch Wilwood MC makes the pedal a bit stiff (280Z booster helps). My plan is to swap the Wilwood proportioning valve back to the stock PV and to swap the Wilwood MC back to the stock 7/8 MC and keep the 280Z booster. The stock 7/8 MC should make the pedal less stiff. At this time my brakes are balanced and I like the Hawk HP pads. The Hawk HP pads have better cold bite than the KVR or Porterfield pads I tried. Opinion: Well maintained stock brakes work fine. In retrospect, the MM 240SX rear caliper swap works well with stock front calipers, stock MC, stock PV and stock booster. If you don't like drum brakes do the 240SX rear swap leaving everything else stock. Some people complain that the stock MC "feels mushy" with the 240SX rear swap. I have also run into quality problems with remanufactured 240SX calipers having three of them with the piston sticking right out of the box. Sticking pistons seems to be a known problem among the Nissan/240SX people. Check the Nissan/240SX web sites for more information before you decide to do the 240SX swap as they do come with their own set of problems. So yes, you can go back to stock front calipers with your 240SX rear calipers. As for the PV I plan on using my stock valve.

Grab the push rod with vice grips and pull it out. See picture for components. Be carefull not to loose the reaction disk (glue in-place when reassembling the push rod).

Actually, there is enough flex in the MC hard lines that you can pull the MC out and away from the booster to allow ajustment of the push rod. Not sure if ther would be enough flex in the hard lines to change a booster though.

Title/Logo page does not open consistantly and is very slow to open. Clicking on Forums results in a "not available" message 50% of the time.

Google Video search: You don't have to remove the front yoke on the drive shaft as shown in the video to do this measurement. You will need to have the differential pinion yoke in place to measure. Take measurement to driveline shop and have the driveshaft cut and balanced. Do more Goggle search if this is not clear.

No lock nut. Usually the threads on that adjuster are tight enough to hold it in place. You could put some blue Loctite on the adjuster threads if you are concerned about it moving. Could you post some pictures of how you did the flex lines?

Within the last year there was an extensive dicussion in a thread concerning radiator and fan choices. Look for that thread. BTW, fans are rated in Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM). High CFM fans also draw higher amperage which can be a problem for old electrical systems (melt down). So you have to balance your choice of radiator and fan combinations. Suggest you do the following: - Search and read all threads dealing with radiator and fan choices. Become informed before choosing a radiator-fan set up. - Since you are in Arizona search the Arizona Z car website and check out the Z radiator. Check which fan is recommended for that radiator.

Always list the make, model and year of the car including modifications when asking for help. Unwire the speedo. With the speedo unwired, does the car start and turn off normally? Sounds like the way you wired it is causing a back-feed to the ignition. Unwire what you did and start over and check each wire you tap into for power with a volt meter with the key set in different modes: off, on, acc. etc.

look: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/89828-stainless-steel-bolt-kit-z-car-creations/ also: http://mmsacc-stainless.com/html/Datsun.htm and:http://www.zcarcreations.com/downloads/ZCC_ssbolt_20070701.pdf Google rules

read: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109115-master-cylinder-bench-bleeding/?hl=bleeding and Search