Miles

Why did you install a proportioning valve? Are your rear brakes over powering the front brakes? Do you have big brakes on the rear? If not you do not need a PV. The Wilwood PV comes with a 1/8-27 NPT to 3/8-24 inverted flair adaptor fittings. The Datsun uses 10mm x 1.0 brake line fittings! You have to either use a metric adaptor (1/8-27 NPT to 10mm x 1.0) or install 3/8-24 inverted flair fittings on your Datsun brake lines to make a proper leak free connection to the PV. You could kluge together AN fittings, adaptors and hoses. Kluge = an asortment of il-fitting parts forming a disgusting whole. Flying Miata has the adaptor fittings. I have used them, but they leaked. If you do not have a brake balance problem you could put the original PV back and save a lot of time and money.

Try to rebuild: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm

edit removed links

Go here and buy the video "Just SUs" : http://www.ztherapy.com/ Watch it. Ztherapy also sells SU parts and books. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your Z. There are links in the other forums and at other sites. Buy a Haynes Manual for 240Zs. Do a Google search for SU carb tuning. There are many sites. Join Classiczcars.com. They are more aligned with stock Z maintenance. More: http://www.sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm#Tuning and adjusting SUs http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/2-write-ups-on-tuning-su-carbs.html http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPageCarburation.htm

I can't see the link you provided as I am still getting 404 errors within Hybridz. There is a small spring inside the door lock mechanism. It holds tension on the door lock so that it will hold the plunger in the up position. It is what provides the snap and lock feel to the plunger when moving up or down. When the spring is missing the plunger just falls. Is this the spring you mean? If this is the spring you mean, there is no replacement spring as the door lock mechanism was not ment to be serviced. You can try to find an equivalent spring, or a spring from a warn out door mechanism, or replace the door lock mechanism with a good used one. New mechanisms are rare and expensive, especially the driver's side mechanism. Examine the door mechanism on the other door and you will see a small spring inside the body of the mechanism.

Source for MC bottom port fittings: For the benefit of others, and as stated elsewhere above, go to a reycling yard such as Pick and Pull and buy a used MC and remove the required fittings for your Wilwood 1 inch MC swap. Cost me $10.00.

" Ok well i think the front page of this thread should be updated as it is now too late for me since i already ordered my wilwood master cylinder....but the parts you need to make this work is nissan part # 46038-B5012.....which is no longer availible!.....if anybody knows where there might be NOS of this please let me know.....or any alternatives rather then the ones mentioned on the front page. " The answers are in this very well written thread. Note from this thread that the bottom hard line fittings from 72 240Z and 79 280ZX MCs will work. Go to pick and pull and buy a MC for $10.00. Remove bottom port fittings. Install fittings in the wilwood MC. Also try: http://s-s.www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxEODjxaIfM

Concur with RebekasZ. Over the last ten years I have tried KVR, Hawk HPS and Porterfield R4S pads. Low dust, but they did not stop the car especially on the first application when cold. I am now using Axxis Ultra pads on my solid Toyota front and 240SX rear brakes. They have excellent cold bite and a very linear feel from first application to making hard stops. They dust a little, but so what. The idea is to stop the car. See: http://forums.hybridz.org.prx2.unblocksit.es/index.php/topic/116740-axxis-ult-pads/

When I clicked "post topic" I got a 404 error and yet the thread is in fact posted.

I am still getting 404 errors when trying to enter HybridZ. Using Unblocksit I can get in, but most internal Hybridz links result in a 404 error. It occurs to me that the site may be responding as if I am a spammer or that I am being blocked for some other reason. Same thing happens when doing a Google search for HybridZ topics. All found links result in 404 errors. It looks like I need to sign in each time, but signing in results in a 404 error. Back clicking to the previous page reveals that I was, in fact, signed in. I have done all of the recommended procedures to eliminate problems with my computer. Short of hiring an IT guy I am at a loss how to proceed.

Keep searching in the interior forum for material options as there are several threads on this subject. You do not have to use high cost materials. I used a cheap dynamat type material (adhesive backed) and then a layer of aluminized mat (roll) followed by a complete carpet kit. Be sure to cover the wheel and strut housings and the sides where you can reach them. Everything is glued down to conform with the body. I glued scraps of the aluminized fiber mat inside the doors. Do not use the rubberized stick-on mat inside the doors, I tried it and it turned into a blob on the bottom of the door in the summer. Covering the door panels with foam backed naugahide improves sound attenuation as well. My car is cool and quiet. Source: Summit Racing

Nothing seems to work on my end except to use an unblocking website. Once I get in many internal links produce 404 errors.

How about this:

ok

Dan: Do you need donations to help offset any costs incured getting the site operational? Let us know. I am getting 404 error when trying to enter Hybridz website. The only way in is to use unblock: http://forums.hybridz.org.prx2.unblocksit.es/index.php/forum/7-gen-i-ii-chevy-v8-tech-board/

Do a search. The flange p/n is listed in several threads.

Administrators note: I am using hybridz.org.prx2.unblocksit.es to post this. I have used the MSA mounts on two builds. The MSA kit does not mount the engine as low or as close to the firewall as the JTR kit. But it is close enough. The JTR transmission mount is a flat bar that bolts to the bottom of the floor pans. The MSA transmission mount is shaped lke a triangle goes up inside the driveshaft tunnel. The advantage of the MSA transmission mount is that you can bolt it to the transmission and then move it several inches up/down inside the tunnel while setting the driveshaft angle. Once the optimum angle is found you bolt the trans mount in place. Do more searching as I wrote the MSA install up several times.

davek He needs to use all of the moving parts from a 280ZX including the stub axle.

Realistically, given the constraints, you will have keep the car stock.

Using Google I found this: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103344-280zxt-stub-axle-cv-swap/ It looks like the hub bore diameters differ between the 240Z - 280Z and the 280ZX. You may have to get a 240Z - 280z stub axle and a 280ZX stub axle and compare all of the dimensions including length. bearing diameters and hub inner diameters. Anyone have AutoCad drawings of these stub axles? Do you have any idea why the rules require you to use 280ZX components? Makes no sense. Why can't you just leave the differential stock?

72 240z with carbed 350 SBC crate engine, Camaro T5, Arizona Z springs Tokico struts, poly bushings. Dyno 240 RWHP so it is still a 240Z. This was my second 240Z V8 build. Car was a very clean stock daily driver for eight years prior to build. 200k miles. Two years planning and gathering parts. Assembled all parts before teardown. One year building including disassembly, paint and interior. Outsourced exhaust installation and door panel covers. The car was old-school pupose built as a daily driver with no computers or modern electronics to allow ease of maintenance. Lots of sound/heat insulation with thick carpets inside. Very nice, clean, quiet inside, daily driver. Sounds good with an attention getting lope at idle. Never get tired of driving it, but, like all things, after four years on the road the initial excitement has faded. I took my time planning the build so there were no disappointing problems. Recently the stock stub axles caused some garage time, but new axles from Chequered Flag fixed that. Now I just modify and try new things to fine tune the performance. Last year I experimented with the so called brake upgrades to see first hand how each "upgrade" performed: 240sx rear, Maxima rear, Toyota vented fronts, Toyota solid fronts etc. Did the math for each configuration. They are all unbalanced and suck. For cheap brakes the solid Toyota fronts with stock rear drums was not bad. So I am very satisfied with the outcome of the project with the exception that parts are becoming harder to get.

You are welcome.

Do you mean that you want us to do your searching for you? Here is the link: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/ Off to the shed!

You might have adjust the length of the booster to master cylinder push rod. Do a search for adjusting the push rod.

Will the clutch master cylinder get in the way?