Miles

Nothing seems to work on my end except to use an unblocking website. Once I get in many internal links produce 404 errors.

How about this:

ok

Dan: Do you need donations to help offset any costs incured getting the site operational? Let us know. I am getting 404 error when trying to enter Hybridz website. The only way in is to use unblock: http://forums.hybridz.org.prx2.unblocksit.es/index.php/forum/7-gen-i-ii-chevy-v8-tech-board/

Do a search. The flange p/n is listed in several threads.

Administrators note: I am using hybridz.org.prx2.unblocksit.es to post this. I have used the MSA mounts on two builds. The MSA kit does not mount the engine as low or as close to the firewall as the JTR kit. But it is close enough. The JTR transmission mount is a flat bar that bolts to the bottom of the floor pans. The MSA transmission mount is shaped lke a triangle goes up inside the driveshaft tunnel. The advantage of the MSA transmission mount is that you can bolt it to the transmission and then move it several inches up/down inside the tunnel while setting the driveshaft angle. Once the optimum angle is found you bolt the trans mount in place. Do more searching as I wrote the MSA install up several times.

davek He needs to use all of the moving parts from a 280ZX including the stub axle.

Realistically, given the constraints, you will have keep the car stock.

Using Google I found this: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103344-280zxt-stub-axle-cv-swap/ It looks like the hub bore diameters differ between the 240Z - 280Z and the 280ZX. You may have to get a 240Z - 280z stub axle and a 280ZX stub axle and compare all of the dimensions including length. bearing diameters and hub inner diameters. Anyone have AutoCad drawings of these stub axles? Do you have any idea why the rules require you to use 280ZX components? Makes no sense. Why can't you just leave the differential stock?

72 240z with carbed 350 SBC crate engine, Camaro T5, Arizona Z springs Tokico struts, poly bushings. Dyno 240 RWHP so it is still a 240Z. This was my second 240Z V8 build. Car was a very clean stock daily driver for eight years prior to build. 200k miles. Two years planning and gathering parts. Assembled all parts before teardown. One year building including disassembly, paint and interior. Outsourced exhaust installation and door panel covers. The car was old-school pupose built as a daily driver with no computers or modern electronics to allow ease of maintenance. Lots of sound/heat insulation with thick carpets inside. Very nice, clean, quiet inside, daily driver. Sounds good with an attention getting lope at idle. Never get tired of driving it, but, like all things, after four years on the road the initial excitement has faded. I took my time planning the build so there were no disappointing problems. Recently the stock stub axles caused some garage time, but new axles from Chequered Flag fixed that. Now I just modify and try new things to fine tune the performance. Last year I experimented with the so called brake upgrades to see first hand how each "upgrade" performed: 240sx rear, Maxima rear, Toyota vented fronts, Toyota solid fronts etc. Did the math for each configuration. They are all unbalanced and suck. For cheap brakes the solid Toyota fronts with stock rear drums was not bad. So I am very satisfied with the outcome of the project with the exception that parts are becoming harder to get.

You are welcome.

Do you mean that you want us to do your searching for you? Here is the link: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/ Off to the shed!

You might have adjust the length of the booster to master cylinder push rod. Do a search for adjusting the push rod.

Will the clutch master cylinder get in the way?

http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm http://www.courtesyparts.com/1970-1973-240z-air-conditioning-kit-r134-freon-p-228048.html?cPath=7724_7747& http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Power-Brake-Booster-w-o-Master-Cylinder/_/R-NBB535104_0136011533

Keep searching for a clean and unmodified 240Z with minimum rust and do the conversion yourself. I can't recommend buying a V8 Z unless you know it was done correctly. I purchased my first V8 240Z done by the PO and had to redo the entire installation including all of the wiring that he had chopped up. For my current hybrid 240Z I bought the cleanest Z I could find for $3k. Starting with a clean platform makes the conversion much easier and less costly.

http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/diffswap.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm

No, do not use the 240Z driveshaft. You use the Camaro driveshaft and the flange adaptor from JTR: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Datsun_Order.html The Camaro driveshaft has to be cut down and balanced at your local machine shop.

What make and model is your car?

1. Do not start this project until you understand what you are doing. 2. Read all of the threads on brake swaps in the FAQ and brake forums. 3. Your bracket is designed such that you will need to pull the stub axles which will be a problem for you if you have never done it before. You will most likely screw up the stub axle if you do not know what you are doing. You should also change the wheel bearings while the stub axle is out. You will need to study how to remove and replace the stub axle and the bearings. BTW the stub axle was designed for drum brakes and runout in the stub axle flange can be a problem when switching to disk brakes. This job requires special tools. 4. The rear disk upgrade is not an upgrade unless you also take time to design and build a balanced brake system which includes the front brakes, master cylinder and booster. 5. If you will take time and study all of the FAQ threads you will know that well maintained stock brakes are fine for daily driving and light track use. 6. It is obvious from your questions that you are not an experienced mechanic. Altering your brake system without knowledge of what you are doing could be dangerous to you and others. 7. Do not modify the bracket. Sell the brackets you bought and use the money to have a brake shop rebuild your 40 year old brake system with fresh parts. 8. There are probably over 50 threads on the above subjects.

Update: The problem was caused by bent stub axle flanges. I couldn't find good used stub axles so I bought new stub axles from Chequered Flag Racing and replaced the bearings. All is well now. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

Update: The problem was caused by bent stub axle flanges. I couldn't good used stub axles so I bought new stub axles from Chequered Flag Racing and replaced the bearings. All is well now. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

72 240Z Brake setup: Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder, 280Z booster, Toyota S12+8 front calipers with solid rotor, Modern Motorsports 240SX rear calipers and Axxis ULT pads front and rear. For cold bite and overall brake feel these Axxiis ULT pads are excellent. Unlike the Hawk HPS, Porterfield R4S and KVR pads I have used over the last 10 years these pads do not require three or four stops to get them working in traffic. First stop they bite. Modulation is excellent as well. Good initial bite with good linear feel. Friction code FF They are also sold as PBR ULT. Source: http://www.importrp.com/index.php Check out the Bimmer sites for write ups.

What modifications have been made to your brake system? Did you remove the brake switch under the master cylinder? Sounds like you have air in the system. Did you let the MC run dry? If so you will have to bleed the air out.