Miles

http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm http://www.courtesyparts.com/1970-1973-240z-air-conditioning-kit-r134-freon-p-228048.html?cPath=7724_7747& http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Power-Brake-Booster-w-o-Master-Cylinder/_/R-NBB535104_0136011533

Keep searching for a clean and unmodified 240Z with minimum rust and do the conversion yourself. I can't recommend buying a V8 Z unless you know it was done correctly. I purchased my first V8 240Z done by the PO and had to redo the entire installation including all of the wiring that he had chopped up. For my current hybrid 240Z I bought the cleanest Z I could find for $3k. Starting with a clean platform makes the conversion much easier and less costly.

http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/diffswap.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm

No, do not use the 240Z driveshaft. You use the Camaro driveshaft and the flange adaptor from JTR: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Datsun_Order.html The Camaro driveshaft has to be cut down and balanced at your local machine shop.

What make and model is your car?

1. Do not start this project until you understand what you are doing. 2. Read all of the threads on brake swaps in the FAQ and brake forums. 3. Your bracket is designed such that you will need to pull the stub axles which will be a problem for you if you have never done it before. You will most likely screw up the stub axle if you do not know what you are doing. You should also change the wheel bearings while the stub axle is out. You will need to study how to remove and replace the stub axle and the bearings. BTW the stub axle was designed for drum brakes and runout in the stub axle flange can be a problem when switching to disk brakes. This job requires special tools. 4. The rear disk upgrade is not an upgrade unless you also take time to design and build a balanced brake system which includes the front brakes, master cylinder and booster. 5. If you will take time and study all of the FAQ threads you will know that well maintained stock brakes are fine for daily driving and light track use. 6. It is obvious from your questions that you are not an experienced mechanic. Altering your brake system without knowledge of what you are doing could be dangerous to you and others. 7. Do not modify the bracket. Sell the brackets you bought and use the money to have a brake shop rebuild your 40 year old brake system with fresh parts. 8. There are probably over 50 threads on the above subjects.

Update: The problem was caused by bent stub axle flanges. I couldn't find good used stub axles so I bought new stub axles from Chequered Flag Racing and replaced the bearings. All is well now. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

Update: The problem was caused by bent stub axle flanges. I couldn't good used stub axles so I bought new stub axles from Chequered Flag Racing and replaced the bearings. All is well now. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

72 240Z Brake setup: Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder, 280Z booster, Toyota S12+8 front calipers with solid rotor, Modern Motorsports 240SX rear calipers and Axxis ULT pads front and rear. For cold bite and overall brake feel these Axxiis ULT pads are excellent. Unlike the Hawk HPS, Porterfield R4S and KVR pads I have used over the last 10 years these pads do not require three or four stops to get them working in traffic. First stop they bite. Modulation is excellent as well. Good initial bite with good linear feel. Friction code FF They are also sold as PBR ULT. Source: http://www.importrp.com/index.php Check out the Bimmer sites for write ups.

What modifications have been made to your brake system? Did you remove the brake switch under the master cylinder? Sounds like you have air in the system. Did you let the MC run dry? If so you will have to bleed the air out.

This is what I used: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/32693-spindle-pin-question/ The nut broke as I was removing the second pin, but the pin slid on out.

Here is a link to Axxis pad performance: http://www.zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm#Compare The Axxis ULT pads are also sold as the PBR ULT at some retail outlets such as Napa.

72 240Z SBC S12+8 solid rotor front brakes and MM 240SX rear brakes I have been looking for brake pads that have good cold bite as I do most of my daily driving in stop and go rush hour traffic. I have tried KVR, Hawk HPS and Poterfield R4S pads and they require a few stops before becoming efficient. I don't care about dust. Research is showing that AXXIS ULT pads have good cold bite and fade resistance. Friction code: FF Do these AXXIS pads make a lot of noise?

Note: JTR also sells a 90 deg. speedo gear adaptor.

If the rear end ratio is 3.36 or 3.54 the drive gear is 7 tooth and is purple. I have a WC T5 with a 3.54 R200 and 7 tooth drive gear. The speedo is spot on. Note: The JTR book has all of this information. Invest $30 and buy the book. You need to tell us what gear ratio the differential is.

Anyone have pictures Outlaw 2800 Calipers on the front of a 240Z? I have seen several old posts that state that the Outlaw 2800 Calipers will bolt up to the 240Z front strut, but not clear which rotor to use and if it requires modification. This may be a good alternative to the Toyota vented swaps.

Study the FAQ section.

I am having the exact same problem with left rear wheel bearing free play. I thought replacing the bearings would fix the problem, but the left stub axle still has latteral slop. That is, grabbing the stub axle flnage at 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock I can rock the flange while pushing at 1 o'clock and pulling at 7 o'clock. I measured the "B" spacer and it is within spec per the FSM.

Got the parts this morning. Thanks

Machining it is. Thanks

If I machine the rotors, I'll have to remove the new outer bearing i just installed. I use a clam shell bearing separator. Can I reuse the bearing or does bearing separator damage it? Thanks

John at Arizona Z Car recommends machining the stub axle flanges to eliminate runout. I am getting 0.003" runout on one stub axle flange and 0.002" on the other stub axle flange. This is causing rotor runout along the same radial as the flange runout which is causing the rotor to drag on the pads at the high spots on the rotors. The other choice is to buy used stub axles which could have the same problem. Anyone see a problem with machining the stub axle flanges to correct 0.002" to 0.003" runout?

Example fittings: Caliper Adapter Fittings: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-641431 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-641431 A/N -3 to 10mm x 1.0mm inverted flare hard lines: http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/989545/10002/-1 Earls SS lines: http://www.holley.com/types/Speed-Flex%20Lines.asp

You can get a 10 x 1.0mm to a -3 A/N adaptor that screws into the caliper. This allows you to buy a SS -3 A/N line with a 10 x 1.0mm female end that attaches to the brake hardlines on the body. Sources: Earles, Russell, Summit etc. If you are using stock or Toyota front calipers the adaptor is a 10 x 1.0mm inverted flare to A/N -3 For example: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-641431 See picture.