Miles

I need a right rear strut for a 72 240Z. Just the right rear strut with the stub axle MINUS the shock, spring, insulator and control arm. I have disk brakes so I don't need the drum backing plate either. Prefer Sacramento area pick up. Shipped to 95806 Thanks 3 Jan 14 Got the parts I needed.

I believe I have found the reason for the calipers dragging causing the right rear rotor to get hot. After replacing the bearings in the right rear hub I was able to measure 0.001in. runout at the hub face and the new rotor has 0.003in. runout along the same radial as the hub runout. Also, there is latteral slop when rocking the hub at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions indicating a warn bearing carrier(hub). So the hub is bent and the strut will have to be replaced. More details here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115940-stub-axle-flange-rubbing-on-the-face-of-the-hub-bearing-carrier/page-2

Finally got back to this. I replaced the bearings and rechecked the hub runout at 0.001 in. Also rechecked the new rotor runout at 0.003 in. The hub and rotor runout occur along the same radial from the center of the hub. So the hub is warped/bent which may have happened when I ran the right rear wheel up onto a curb while making a right hand turn about two years ago. Additionally, I can see/feel play in the hub if I grab the hub at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions and push in and out. But there is no play if I grab the hub at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. So it looks like there are two problems: The bearing carrier in the hub must be warn allowing the axle to slop in and out. The hub of the stub axle in bent. The only fix will be to replace the strut and stub axle since both appear to be damaged. This has been a long road starting with my post on overheating rear calipers. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114866-importance-of-floating-rear-caliper-being-centered-on-rotor/

NLA = No Longer Available because Nissan does not supply the 280ZX MC nor do the rebuilders. Very old news here. See Wilwood MC swap in the brake forum BTW (By the Way) the vented Toyota front brakes with the stock drums will be unbalanced such that the rears won't be able to keep up with the vented brakes. Searching will explaine why. Just put some Hawk HPS pads on the front and some quality shoes on the rear and maintain the brakes properly. If you absolutely have to do a brake "upgrade" then put the Toyota non-vented calipers on and be done with it. And yes you will have to go to a larger volume MC (e.g. Willwood 1 inch) with the this swap or the brake pedal will be too low.

1. Go back and read all of the stickies and FAQs on brake upgrades. If you actually read them you will see what a mistake you are about to make. 2. The 280ZX MC is NLA which you will learn about if you read the Brake Forum.

The MC fittings seem to be standardized so you may be able to find some other Nissan MC that you can part out.

See picture. What parts are you looking for? For what it is worth, I found that the master cylinder line fittings, rubber check valves and cone shaped pipe flange seats for the the 240Z, 280ZX and the Wilwood 1 inch MCs were interchangable. For example, when I did the Wilwood 1 inch MC swap I was able to use the fittings off of 240Z/280ZX MCs to allow attaching the 240Z 10mm x 1.0mm hardlines to the Wilwood MC. See Wilwood MC swap in the brake section. If you have rear disk brakes you don't need the rubber check valve. With these old cars you to be creative.

Yes it was and I provided a list of possible hose configurations including a how to video.

FUBAR. Get a schematic and put the ignition/starter circuit back to stock configuration.

You have written a lot of words, but have not provided any of the right information for anyone to diagnose the problem. What transmission and slave cylinder are you using? Also, please proof read what you write before you post.

See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/zbrakeupgrade.htm Google: "240Z 240SX brake swaps"

I'll keep this in mind when re-installing the 240SX calipers. Before you tightened the nut down with the impact wrench were the inside or the outside pads dragging?

The end play was caused by the inner bearing not being seated completely. The inner bearing moved off its seat when I hammered the axle and outer bearing into the hub. So i used the old inner bearing as a drift and tapped the inner bearing into its seat. The axle spins free there is no end play. Now on to the driver's side bearing replacement and road test.

All answers are here: http://www.ztherapy.com/ Also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxEODjxaIfM

I'll go ahead and reassemble the axle and road test.

I just don't want to drive it and then go through the hassle of pulling the wheels off, jacking it up etc. etc. I prefer to install the inner bearing first so it acts as a guide when driving the axle and outer bearing into the hub. I recall that once before I did that and the inner bearing moved off of its' seat which would prevent the spacer tube from interfacing with the inner bearing race resulting in some axial slop. I'll pull the grease seal and tap the inner bearing to seat it and then recheck for end play. If all is good I'll road test it.

With everything installed and torqued, there is about 0.003 linear movement inward when pushing and pulling on the hub. No improvement with more torque. Checked length of the "B" spacer at 52.53mm - 52.54 which is in spec. Checked the hub runout at less than 0.001. So my hub is not bent. No lateral movement. The axle flange no longer drags/rubs on the lip of the hub/bearing carrier. The axle spins free with the only drag comming from the inner grease seal. If I remove the inner flange the grease seal resistance goes to zero. I compared lateral movement of the inner races of the old and new bearings. There is the same amount of lateral play in both new and old bearings. I presume that this play is reduced when everything is in place and torqued down. ???

Eric Neyerlin at Zparts.com has a write up on stub axle failures. It is in the Tech Articals section. See pictures : http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/stub_axle/P1010169rw512s.jpg http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/stub_axle/DCP_1894rw2_750s.jpg In 2005 I had the the threaded end of a stub axle brake off pulling away from a stop sign at slow speed. It sounded like a loud snap/bang. I actually drove it to a Nissan dealer and bought a newstub axle the next day with the retaining nut flopping around in the axle flange. Not recommended as the axle can walk out of the bearing housing.

No wobble or bearing noise. The bearings were just loose if I pushed and pulled on the wheel. The new bearings took care of the looseness. My dial indicator just arrived so I can now accurately measure the flange to see if it is bent.

Does it take much to bend the flange? I recall about two years ago while making a right turn the right rear wheel caught on a curb lifting the car up a few inches and then dropping. The outer edge of the wheel had some road rash, but there were no problems until recently.

Thanks Unfortunately, my Z has been in the garage for the last year while chasing probems with the right rear brakes overheating and now this stub axle problem. Next time I'll build a mustang!

I had a Saginaw transmission in the first 240Z V8 I bought. The engine was in the SCARAB position. The shifter position was way forward and close to the dash. The first thing I did was to remount the engine lower and closer to the firewall and replaced the Saginaw with a WC T5 transmision. I sold the Saginaw to a circle track racer. The T5 shifter position is much closer to the stock location and the 15 deg. tilt is not noticable. I did the same set up on my second 240Z V8 project. The tilt of the T5 is not a problem. I tried after market shifters that angle the shifter to make up for the tilt, but went back to a shortened stock T5 shifter because the after market shifters would jam.

John Here is a video of a stub axle failing while racing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUKfHfPub1A Thanks

NewZed I saw John's post. I wonder if placing a 0.5 mm shimm between the outer bearing and where it seats on the shaft would work? I may just stop screwing with this and replace the strut. Not looking forward to that since springs, shocks, bushings have all been installed. Thanks

I'll put the rotor back on and check it with a dial indicator. If the axle flange is bent I'll have to find a good used one as Nissan no longer stocks them. When I replaced the axle shafts in 09 I thought "ok that should last another 40 years.