Miles

72 240Z: Approximately 6 months ago I replaced the stock rear control arm bushings with MSA urethane bushings because the outer passenger side pivit was clunking when shifting and going over bumps. The clunking went away with the new urethane bushings. Now the rear passenger control arm is clunking again when shifting. At least I think that I have narrowed it down to the control arm bushings. Last weekend I installed a tight 3.54 R200 with urethane mustache bushings, checked the U-joints and tightened all of the suspension bolts during re-assembly. And still I get a loud clunk from the passenger side. I also checked the stub axle flange and it is tight. The stub axles are new Nissan parts installed two years ago. What would cause new urethane bushings to act like the old stock worn out rubber bushings? Could the metal sleeves be defective? Could the sleeve ID too big allowing movement about the pivit pin? From searching the forum I know that the sleeves become locked in place once they are tightened down and the the bushing rotates around the sleeve, but it seems that if there was slop between the sleeve and the pivit pin the sleeve could move. Thanks Miles

I have found that pipe wrenches don't grip the gland nut very well and they do not apply enough twisting force to budge a stuck gland nut. I have looked at buying a $100 dollar spanner from Snap-On, but found a cheaper home garage approach that works: If you can get a good bite on the stuck gland nut, place the gland nut in a vice and twist the strut housing. This gives allows a better grip on the gland nut and more twisting leverage. I have removed both front and rear stuck gland nuts this way. With some help I removed the rear strut with the control arm attached and placed the gland nut in a vice and cranked it down real hard. Then using the control arm as a lever, twisted the strut assembly. The gland nut released its grip with very little effort. It is all about getting a good grip on the gland nut and leverage. With the front strut I used the spindle and a pipe as a leverage point. Be careful not to dent the threaded end of the strut tube which I did do when trying to remove a stuck gland nut with a pipe wrench. Miles

Lowdown I had the same problem on my first R200 install. I had the front mount flipped around. Are you using the stock 240Z half shafts? I am asking because I did this same swap 6 years ago in my son's 240Z v8 and had no problems, but recently became aware that the 240Z driver's side half shaft is too long to work well with the R200 and may bind the suspension. I also bought a R200 and a matching set of 78 280Z half shafts with the understanding that the left shaft is shorter to allow for the side bulge in the R200. Not so. I measured both left and right shafts fully collapsed and they are of equal length. Thanks Miles

Jon Sounds easy. Thanks Miles

The R200 front differential mounting bracket has the differential offset to the passenger side. Can someone compare side by side the R180 and R200 front mount and the mustache bars. Here are some pictures of the R200 bolted to the front mount bracket. Could it be that Datsun offset the R200 mounts to the passenger side to compensate for the wider R200?

I have been researching this for hours and am not confident of my conclusions concerning the many opinions about needing the "shorter" 280Z driver's side halfshaft when doing the R200 swap. 240Z vs 280Z halfshaft length: There has been much debate about halfshaft length and the R200 swap with the concern being that the R200 driver's side halfshaft is shorter to compensate for the R200 which bulges to the driver's side. The point being that if you use the 240Z driver's side halfshaft it will be too long and will bottom out causing binding of the suspension. Also, I have read of complaints about the 240Z driver's side halfshaft not fitting during installation. I just measured a left and right 78 280z half shaft in the fully compressed position. They were both 12 1/2 inches center to center as measured at the fixed part of the yolk. I then measured the left and right halfshaft in the fully extended position and got 14 1/8 inches for the right side shaft and 13 7/16 inches for the left side shaft for a 11/16 inch difference. Is that enough to make a difference? Question: Has anyone who did the R200 swap using their 240Z halfshafts actually experienced the driver's side halfshaft bottoming out or any installation or suspension problems?

RE: Replacing the side shaft and pinion oil seals After reading this thread I have the following questions for a 78 R200: 1. How do you pull the side shafts off to access the side shaft seal? 2. For the pinion seal is there really a crush sleeve or can I just remove the nut and pinion to access the pinion oil seal and then re-tighten the nut to specs? 3. Do I have to buy a new nut for the pinion? Is the nut staked on like the stub axle nut? Thanks Miles

Try KVR. p/n m7069 for solid rotor $74.10/set. KVR phone 800-636-0854 Miles

Get the video tape from Z Therapy and then balance and adjust your carbs. Be sure to properly balance the carbs per the video. As for mixture I found that my carbs work best at about 2 1/4 turns out. Miles

Cost $230. It is stout so I can attach my shoulder harness.

Here are are some pictures of a rear strut bar I had a local fab shop make. It was built by Tolle Fab in Sacramento 916-524-5315. Having trouble getting the pictures to load. I'll try again....

98 gsr seat pics:

I just bought a pair of 98 Integra GSR black leather seats for $240 and installed them. They fit perfectly, look like they belong on the car, and the stock seat belts are still usable without modification. Removing the GSR seat rails was a bit of a pain due to the many spot welds that I had to drill out. Once I got the seat rails off I installed two pieces of steel flat stock 1/8" x 4"W 18"L across where the GSR seat rails used to attach at the front and rear of the seat. Then I bolted the Z sliders to the flat stock after a test fit in the car. The GSR seats are much more supportive especially in the lumbar area. Miles

I just spent a day looking for seats at several auto wreckers. I found a set of 2003 Saab 93 seats that should fit in a 240Z. The width is just under 22 inches and the seat rails look like they would be easy to modify. The driver's side seat is powered. No air bags. Price for black leather is $400.00. Has anyone installed 2003 SAAB 93 seats in Z? Miles

I just spent a day looking for seats at several auto wreckers. I found a set of 2003 Saab 93 seats that should fit in a 240Z. The width is just under 22 inches and the seat rails look like they would be easy to modify. The driver's side seat is powered. No air bags. Price $400.00. Has anyone installed 2003 SAAB 93 seats in Z? Miles

I originally posted this question back in 2004 and I am now on my second JY R180 differential. Are there any shops in the Sacramento area that can rebuild a R180? I am considering having a MSA LSD installed at the same time. Also, are there any shops in Sacramento that can rebuild a L24 engine? I can take the engine to Rebello, but would prefer to find an engine builder in Sacramento if possible. Thanks Miles

Using the tool compartment behind the passenger seat has been done by myself and others here. There should be some pictures available. Very easy install. For street use it made it easy to fine tune the brakes. Miles

I recently purchased the Toyota vented 4 x 4 caliper kit from Ross at Modern Motor Sports. I finished installing the MM vented rotor 4 x 4 kit and the brakes are awesome! The pedal is high, firm and modulates well after properly adjusting the booster push rod and taking some slack out of the brake pedal travel. The car hauls down confidently at every stop. Here is what I did: -New (remanufactured) Toyota calipers from a local dealer: $117.00 ea. I clear coated the calipers preserving the clean looking castings. -1979 280zx MC (bench bled) with the booster push rod adjusted to 10mm past the aluminum spacer. -Recent rebuild of rear drum breaks with MSA shoes (look like KVR shoes.) -Adjusted slack out of the brake pedal travel. -3/8†wheel spacers were required because the caliper cylinder blisters just rubbed on the outer edge of the hub of my 15†Eagle rims. I may be able to go to a smaller spacer. I had considered grinding the blister, but I was not sure how much material surrounded the cylinder. Only the fronts lock up in a hard stop. I could never lock the wheels on either of my stock 240Zs. Miles

Charles You may have to experiment with different pads until you find one that fits the type of driving that you do. For everyday street use, with occaisional performance stops, I have found that stock OEM Toyota pads are ok-never any fade. I have used KVR pads on my v8 Z and my stock Z and they work well for everyday street use. I am installing the Toyota vented rotor upgrade this weekend and will be using KVR pads. Miles

This makes sense. Brand new new bearings should not fail in such a short time. My son just told me that he heard the clicking before I installed the new bearings. I'll check the drums and u-joints this week while I am installing the vented rotor kit I just bought from Modern Motor sports. I really did not look forward to pulling the stub axle to replace the bearings. Thanks Miles

I replaced the rear stub axles and bearings with new OEM Nissan parts in my 72 240Z about 18 months ago. I have been noticing a clicking sound coming from the left rear wheel. I hear it best when driving by a wall or fence which reflects the sound back. For example, driving slowly I hear an intermittant clicking sound that is proportional to the wheel speed. At first I thought that it might be some brake hardware like the springs moving around making scratching or clicking noises as the parts rubbed against the brake shoes. Could this be a wheel bearing that is starting to fail? Thanks Miles

Try Arizona Z heavy duty springs for about $200. The spring rates are 180 lb/in front and 200 lb/in rear. I have them on my V8 240Z and my stock 240Z daily driver (future v8). They maintain the stock ride height and greatly improved handling. For my street Zs these AZ springs used with Tokico blues and poly u bushings throughout make for a daily driver that handles really well without spending a huge amount of money. My neighbor put the progressive springs on his 73 240z and then took them off two weeks later because they were too soft. http://www.arizonazcar.com/springs.html Miles

If you are using the 79-83 Toyota calipers with your stock solid non-vented rotors you can use KVR semi-metalic carbon fiber pads p/n m7069. KVR http://www.kvrperformance.com/shop/ Miles

Trevor Thanks for the response. I plan on buying new calipers from a local Toyota dealer and they will not let me return them if I order the wrong set. Miles

I am searching for specific autoparts store part numbers for the calipers reecommended for the vented brake conversion. I am doing the Modern Motor Sports Toyota Vented caliper conversion. The MMS website says to use 89-95 Toyota 4WD pickup calipers or the 4/89-91 Toyota 4Runner calipers stamped S12W. Questions: Parts store guy asked if these are for the V6 4x4 models? Does anyone have the correct p/n for Napa, Autozone, Kragen, Pep Boys or other California parts stores? Thanks Miles