Tim240z

On my 83 ZXT, the boost gauge doesn't go up very much in first (although first is a very quick gear, so I am in second very soon), but I do hear the BOV venting when I shift, so I know it's boosting some, and as soon as I shift to second and hammer it the needle pegs at 6 pounds or so. Tim

Depends what the gravel is like. If the stones are sharp, then you will have a problem. If they are rounded like river stone, then no problem. I would be more worried about the bodywork/paint. Tim

The problem is finding all the stuff that you took off, when you go to put it back together a year or so later...doh :malebitchslap: Tim

I have one in development right now. I have test fitted it and my machinist is welding it up. All Stainless mandrel 3.5 inch OD pipe (3.25 inch ID). Should be ready in about a month or so. I believe a couple of others have them too. Do a search and you will find them. Tim

One is sender signal and one is earth. If your gauge is getting pegged, then your sender is earthing somewhere (that's how you can test if the gauge is working...by grounding the sender). Tim

Unless you move out to the sticks (which pretty much will put you out in the desert because the westside is completely built up) you won't find anything of significant size. If you do, expect to pay well into the 800k to $million for house. Point of reference: In my town (El Segundo...directly south of LAX airport) you can't touch a 2 bed 1 bath for under $500,000.00, and usually into the 6s. As for your swap: even if it is pre1975 (74 and older) and doesn't require a smog TEST, it is still illegal to swap in a motor without telling the State. If you do tell the State, you have to take the car to a referee station to have the swap certified, thus ALL smog equipment from the donor car has to be in place. Like David said: the weather is great all year, but other aspects of CA really suck. I too, would leave CA in a heartbeat if I could find a job as good as the one I have now. Hope this Helps! BTW, I believe that CO is just as expensive and strick (emissions). Tim

Plastic body filler is by OEM manufacturers because of the toxicity of lead. How many factory original cars have you seen with failing filler work? Body filler, or Bondo (since that is the biggest brand name), got a bad reputation years ago because of people using it improperly to hide dents (ie not doing metal work first) to try to sell cars to the unweary. If filler is used correctly, it will, and does, last the life of the paint job. Lead is a nasty product to work with (healthwise). Just my 2C. Tim

Try taking out the fuel tank and having it flushed. Could some crap floating around and intermittently plugging the outlet. Tim

I actually had a solid (no universal joints) driveshafts made to make sure my drivetrain was in line. I had already made my tranny and diff mounts by measuring carefully with a tape measure....I was amazed at how far I was off when I installed the solid driveshaft. Tim

Thanks for the link, but that schematic is greek to me...I'm no EE! But I did find the answer on another page (component cheat sheet) here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt/database?method=reportRows&tbl=1 Even Digikey tech help didn't know!! Well I know now....thanks guys.... Tim

Can someone help me figure out which direction to install the NPN transistor? The unit that was supplied from DigiKey is a new design I guess and it doesn't have the locating tab on it! The one I got has a flat side ("D" shaped if looking at it from the top), with 3 connectors all in a row....the PCB has the three holes in a triangle shape, so there is no way of telling which way to install it....HELP>>>> Tim

Call the local city or county office and ask. Most agencies have programs to dispose of these types of wastes. Do the right thing guys! Tim

I made my own completely from scratch when I was wiring up my LT1. I am no electrical genius...it really isn't that difficult, just takes time to do it. Once you have a good foundation (electrical center), it is really simple. Trace out your wiring out on a piece of paper so that you have a 'road map' to work from. Include all of the circuits that you will need. I am running everything through relays, and I know how every circuit is wired so I can easily troubleshoot down the road. Tim

catalogue page 3442, or search under polyethelyne plugs, or finishing plugs....

http://www.mcmaster.com/

make your own!! No doubt!!

MacMaster Carr has those plugs. Tim

They haven't made the "old fashioned" kind for years now!....a trip to auto paint supply store will do the trick...

The PCM will compensate for low octane and retard the timing accordingly. Give your baby the good stuff! You could always drop in some Toluene, or a touch of nitromethane to sweeten it up a little! Tim

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22509&highlight=seats http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22575&highlight=seats http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22230&highlight=seats http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22105&highlight=seats http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21171&highlight=seats http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21060&highlight=seats http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20527&highlight=seats http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19440&highlight=seats Tim

Did you use the search function?

It's amazing the Human Race continues to survive and flourish! Tim

Not sure about the sx seats, but if you do a search, you will find many posts and info on other seats....Miata, Talon etc etc... Tim

MY LT1 Factory Service Manual says to use 5W30 ONLY, so I'm using 5W30 Mobil 1. Tim