Tim240z

Yeah....all black baby!!!!!! Check out the dish on those rims....Yeah Baby!!! Tim

Yup, you're right!!

Time Check: 12h07

Change it in your profile. Tim

If you are just after something unique...OK, but SBC parts (power) are cheaper, more available and the swap is documented and easy. Remember, you may be happy with around 300 ponies to start with, but you will likely want to upgrade to more power, and that's where the small block Chevy really comes into it's own. DO A Search! This topic has come up several times before. Tim

Yup, sounds like a master cylinder. Tim

Amen Brutha!

Do you have the E-brake hooked up? I have heard that the e-brake is necessary for keeping the pads adjusted up to the rotors? I won't be running an E-brake...will this cause me trouble with the rear calipers? Thanks, Tim BTW...for speed and handling, the ZX blows (stock anyway). I have a ZXT and a 240Z. The Z is much more nimble, but obviously the ZXT has more grunt, but it's such a wallowing pig, that it's not as much fun to drive...it'll need to go on a diet (as does it's driver!), and get some serious suspension mods.....nice commuter, though, because of the soft ride.... I guess you can't have your cake and eat it too (oops, there goes the diet)

If it's aluminum, just weld it up. If you look on my site, there is a couple of forms to get aluminum welding sticks to use with a little propane bottle. (on the misc. pics page) Tim

Do have any close ups?

Maybe some universal stuff from JC WHITNEY will work? Tim

I guess since I use the "new posts since last visit" function exclusively, I see everything, so it's not an issue. As for the testing of pics etc, that should be relegated to the Test Area 51 forum only. Tim

It's gonna depend on how much this works out costing. The stainless is pretty expensive stuff, and it's fairly hard to machine. As you can see the flange and the mandrel pipe is stainless! My reasoning behind going with the 3.25 inch ID pipe is because of the bend so close to the turbo. I figure the bigger the diameter at the bend the better. I will step it back down to 3" where the exhaust hooks in to the downpipe. I'm also putting in 2 x O2 sensor fittings, that way i can run a A/F ratio meter. I am NOT planning to put an EGR fitting in. By the time I need to smog this car again, I'll have the engine in my other 240. Long story short: My machinist will make templates for future work, if needed. Tim

This will get you close: http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFmatch.html Tim

You have a frame of reference for this? Tim

http://www.tunercat.com/ http://www.akmcables.com/index.htm http://www.andywhittaker.com/ecu/ecu_software.htm Tim

Mine did the same thing the first time I started it. Try this: 1. tap gently on the injectors to make sure thay haven't gotten sticky from sitting around. 2. Unplug the MAF. Mine was faulty and it would not run with it plugged in. If you unplug it the PCM defaults to speed density. 3. disable the VATS in the PCm (if you haven't already.). 4. Check to see that the fuel pump is actually running. HTH, Tim

It's not. I have no idea what that flange is that you are referring to. This is just a way to use the largest pipe possible and still bolt it up to the T3 turbo housing. The pipe will eventually be welded to that flange in the configuration shown in the first picture above. Tim

Nah, I wish...it's a stock T3 for now. I have a spare T3, so I will eventually hybridize that one. Tim

OK the pics are working now!! Tim

Here is a work in progress. All SS construction, 3.25" ID. I just need to pull the stock downpipe from my ZXT and bolt up the flange and 'clock' the pipe for the correct location and mark. Also need to mark the locations for the 2 O2 sensor locations, then everything can go back to my machinist for tig welding: This thing should let that 'spinning wheel' breathe like a somebeeatch.... Tim

pics on my site. 16 gal summit cell. Tim

Just an opinion, but don't we have enough forums yet? Just using the Announcement forum usually works, doesn't it? Tim