Tim240z

I plan on using the 200 4R. From what I've been told by the performance tranny guys, the 200 can be built to take as much hp as the 700, around 600hp or so. Maybe Keith will chime in here since he does the tranny thang for a living.Tim

Hiro, Why don't you just buy my SUs? Or buy my single weber manifold and run a 40mm downdraft weber, either way it will be much simpler, and you won't have the tuning nightmare. Tim

Javv, Firstly, get the conversion manual from Jagsthatrun.com. That will give you all the info you will need (or at least most of it), then order the mount kit from them too. Secondly, half that amount of hp will kill hondas and mustangs all day long, so since you're on a budget, go for a max of 300hp, which will be more than enough to be a real killer. 450+ hp will cost a bit in good quality parts that will hold together with prolonged reliability. Tim

Dave, My guess is that it's the same one that MSA used to sell, until their 'supplier' quit making them. Coincidence....I think not! Tim

Yeah, according to that article, Ford has plans to build this baby:....Kudos top Ford Tim

Nope not an R230, at least it doesn't look like any I've ever seen. Here's mine: Click here if the pictures don't show up. Tim

Dan, If you drop a few bucks more on the heads, you can get the upgraded valve train from the factory, which gives you up to .525 of lift. Well worth the minor extra expense. Tim

LT, I am also busy with the R230 setup, but because of various family and personal commitments, I am way behind, but I have done all the research. I am having an engineering company locally (they do a lot of NASCAR and Winston Cup axles) make new shafts for me ($120 each), and then use the Q45 inner CVs on the outer too, with an adapter to the stock Z companion flange. Hope that answers your question. Tim

I got rid of all the smog stuff on my '73 daily driver. Sold the pump for $50 too. I disconnected all the egr tubes on the exhaust manifold (PITA...all rusted), and couldn't find the correct size/thread plugs (didn't look too hard), so I just welded up the holes where the egr tubes bolted into the manifold. Then I got some vaccuum plugs from the parts store (a bolt in the end of a rubber vaccuum line works just as well, but looks crappy), and plugged all the vaccuum ports which were made 'obsolete'. I also plugged the water line going into the inlet manifold as I figured this was to keep them warm, and as we all know, the colder the inlet charge the better. Anyway, no harm to the engine operation, just hope the smog Nazis don't look Tim

Come on by, we can sort it out. Tim

Here is a price list from showcars-bodyparts.com that I received via email last year: hanks for contacting us at Showcars >70-78 240Z/260Z/280Z Pricelist > >Reproduction steel parts > >1635-00 1/2 Rocker Panel exc 2+2 $29.50 each >1635-22 3/4 Front Corner, 9/74-8/76 - $31.00 >1635-50 3/4 Quarter panel skin only 3, left side, available, to be >discontinued soon - $90.00 >1635-56 1/2 Quarter Panel front Section, except 2 + 2 - $28.00 > >(have more used and steel parts but not catalogued yet. what do you need?) > >Fiberglass Parts > >Custom assembled with stock valance or Airdam >Wraparound front end bolt on less hood $895 (with airdam or stock valance) > $1095 With flat hood +$150 any scoop installed > +$100 bumper mounted >G-nose style front end less hood $995 bolt on >G-nose Front end with flat hood $1195 G-nose kit -2piece includes bumper molded in. - 395.00> >Fenders- $169 each bolt on > >Hood pin on $229, $329 bolt on >2" cowl hood pin on $295/$395 bolt on >Front valance (replaces stock 3 piece ) - $129.00 >Front spoiler -79.00 >Front spoiler -ducted -79.00 >Front Air dam standard $139 > Ducted $139 > 280 Z style $149 >240Z front bumper - $139 >240Z rear bumper - $139 >1/4 panel $129 >Lower rear valance $119 >Rockers $40 >Headlight extensions $79 each >Filled headlight extensions $79 each >Rear Spoiler - 1 piece $119 >- 3 piece $189 >- CALIFORNIA Z TAIL -295.00 >- STD WHALETAIL -195.00 >Doorskins $119 >Doors bolt on reproductions (take steel window frames) $249 each > >240Z convertible conversion kit can custom build only approximately $5000 >with manual top. > >California Z kit - $1269 > >Prices quoted are in U.S. funds and include all border costs. Canadian >prices available on request. Tim

Mark, Tyres can be mounted as with any normal rims. You may have to search for a shop that has a mounting machine that can handle the wider rims, and watch that they are very careful not to scratch the rims. Check to see if that plastic insert on the machine's fitting surface is in good shape. I worked at a tyre shop for a number of years, and I was the only one that many of the racing guys would trust to mount their tyres (16x11, 16x15), as with the bike guys. ASK if they have experience with racing tyres? Tim

It seems that it is now not possible to do a search in 'all open forums', rather you have to search one section at a time.PITA when you are searching by a member number and don't remember where the topic was posted. PLEEEEZE fix

Here you go Al: previous post About half way down is a mention of what you seek. Tim

From what Mike has written above, he is obviously smart enough to live well within his means. I know that this is taking this thread on a different tangent (sorry Mark..Z-Dreamer), but if anyone is interested, some highly recommended reading (if you can tear yourself away from your Vissard (sp) and Lingenfelter books), is the book " Millionaire next door". Eyeopening information on how to live your financial lives! Again sorry Mark for highjacking your post. Tim

James and Gabe, I think that this post is just going to get lost here. Post a new topic in the Chevy section, maybe calling GrumpyVette, he seems happy to run these figures for us and his 'hybrid' software application seems pretty accurate. Tim

I'll take half a dozen, then sent to Hennessey for building!! Tim

OMG!!! Firstly, I can't fathom the kind of $$ figures this guy is throwing around, next I can't believe Hennessey has the balls to just part the car and not do anything after being given all that $$$ Tim

I wouldn't have taken on so much bodywork, but I know that if I hadn't I would have wished I did.......so I guess so far, I don't have many regrets, but maybe when the project is done!...if that ever happens? Sometimes I regret even starting the project in the first place, mainly because I get too absorbed/obsessed with it, but then I come to my senses. I will probably go with the Outlaw front brake setup because I've heard the stories and drawbacks (weight) of the expense that the Toyota upgrade involves. enough rambling.... Tim

To get a good starting point for setting the timing, try this: turn the engine so that the #1 cyl is at top dead center on the compression stroke. Then put a spark plug on the #1 plug lead and rest the spark plug on the engine (to earth the plug). Now switch on the ignition so that the distributor is getting/giving juice. Now turn the distributor back and forth until the plug sparks. Keep turning it back and forth until you know exactly where it is sparking. Now your timing is set at TDC. The car will fire now and run smoothly enough for you to set the timing accurately. Hope this helps. If not the module on the distributor may be bad. Tim

OK..the two pages (order form and spec page) are now on my site on the Misc. photos page. Tim

Here are the rest of the gauges. I finally got around to making the center dash housing for the 3 extra gauges and the warning LEDs, and my S2000 starter button!! If they don't show here, just go to my site. THe pics of the dash are on the engine page (Don't ask ). Tim

Bang, I have a Chicago Electric unit from HF. It has the capability to weld flux core or with gas. I haven't yet gotten the gas setup and have done ALL the welding so far with flux core wire. Mike is correct that welding with gas gives superior results, but I have had no problems with the gasless setup. It takes some finessing when welding thin (stock Z) material, but with practice it comes out ok. The Chicago Electric welder of mine has performed admirably. I only had one problem, the IC board blew when I was doing some very high amp welding on my subframe connectors. HF had the part in stock. The only issue may be when they don't have stock. The welders are made in Italy, so part orders can take forever!! Tim

Hmmmm, first thing I would do is make sure that 700R has the larger input shaft. The older 700s were much more prone to problems. Tim

Mike, AFAIK, it could be one of three things: Piston slap bad engine mount cracked flywheel (or flexplate in this case). My neighbour's 199x Maxima had what sounded to be a bearing knock....turns out the cracking of the flywheel is fairly common for the Maximas, so maybe SX's too? Tim