Tim240z

If you have the equipment and ability, why not just make your own. I made mine to bolt to the tunnel, which IMHO is a fair bit stronger than the floors..... Pictures here: http://tim240z.iwarp.com/photo6.html

It should be fine with the cap, as long as the seal used (O-ring or whatever) is fuel resistant. I mean the radiator has high pressure and has a cap, the fuel tank has a cap.....I don't see a problem....I was very very close to ordering one, but I like building stuff.....plus the Miller that I bought from John C welds soooo nicely that I just look for stuff to weld up!!!

uhhh...probably after I install it!! Sorry for the sarcasm (not really but trying to be polite!). With the addition on my house, I have a lot of my time taken up with doing some of the extra stuff while the contractors are there (I am replacing the galvanized plumbing with copper this weekend), and stuff like that, so I cannot dedicate myself to the Z. I have taken 2 days off before the show on the 28th Aug to make sure that I have it done, but I really want to get it done sooner...... John C. Nah...I emptied the bong before filling with acetone I didn't want to introduce any H2O into the unit......but yes I fully understand and appreciate the volatility of acetone.....fire extinguisher was right next to me, and I blew air through the tank for a long time before welding on it again.....

John, I filled it with acetone, pressurized it to ~60psi. Found 2 pin hole leaks, welded up the leaks and called it good. It shouldn't see more than ~4 psi while in use, so I think it should be good..... Mike, I plan to bolt it to the front side of the fuel cell box, just rear of the mustache bar. I have just over 4" of clearance there. qwik240z, MSA has some nice ones in their latest catalogue for ~$40, but will need some modification for more inlet/outlets, depending on your application. I made mine up fairly quickly and cheaply, and it will be hidden under the car, so the bling bling factor doesn't come into play.....

Just for accuracy, I have the LT, not LS....but I would spank that little air blower anyways Yeah, Bryan...all in fun and Jest!! 8)

Terry...how many lime green lawnmowers do you have? I count two so far....

Awesome Terry!!! Just bloody awesome

I am running 16x8 centerlines with coilovers and 5" BackSpacing. I have ~1/4" to spare on the inside and ~1/8 on the fender side.....

Actually Dan...the wife and I thought it looked like a big ol Bong.....at least that what I heard...wouldn't know myself.....faaarr ooowwtt Maann!!

I've been wanting to turn my Fuel cell around for a long while now so that I can hide all the fuel lines and not have them hanging out the back like a tampon string Well obviously having the cell outlets pointing forwards is not ideal.....soooo For about 5 bucks I made this (I'm a cheap bastard!...Sorry JC ): Now just to mount and plumb......

ehhh....don't forget I used to have a ZXT....turbos are fun, but ......

From what I understand the wiring for the LS1 is similar in complexity to the LT1. I wired in the oem harness for the LT1 and it is not difficult at all. I just can't see spending hundreds of $$$ on these aftermarket harnesses for something that is so easy. Just get the factory service manual and go circuit by circuit.....it only ends up being about 8 wires that need attention.....

I guess windbag would be more appropriate (play on words - turbo)

Damn straight!!! Let me bring my SBC Z and put a whooping on that air bag of yours

You can get a ring of magnets to put around the oil filter to trap more particles in there......

You can carefully drill out the spot welds and not go through the firewall, so you will not have to fill any holes (maybe just smooth them out a bit). I smoothed out my entire firewall, then triangulated my strut brace and connected my hood latch to that. Take some very good measuremens of EXACTLY where the latch mechanism sits OEM before cutting it off....it will make life a lot easier when you go back to install it again.

Yeah...one day, or even one weekend will not cut it...even with 2 guys doing it.....Do it panel by panel and maybe 3 or 4 weekends and you will be done....

Don't use Hylomar by itself...it's not the right application. Just a nice 1/8 inch bead of silicone, install the pan and finger tighten the bolts. Leave it for an hour then nip them all up. After a few heat cycles check them again. You should have installed the gasket dry, or with a very small amount of hylomar. Silicone with those gaskets generally has problems. Hylomar by itself is not strong enough, but will help to keep the gasket tacky.... Silicone by itself is an appropriate method. Land Rover (110/90 and Pre BMW Discos) showed silicone as the gasket for the oil pan in the factory service manual......

I agree man......it's just a car!! If you don't make a packet of cash on it......tear into it and have a nice hybrid!!

That one has been done too

It's been done several times on this board too!!! http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=33526

WTF!!

Why put in another 'computer' to do what the existing 'computer' is already doing?

Seems like the guys O2 equipment is not reliable. Having those problems that you were having on your runs I would not put a whole lot of stock in his A/F data..... Tim

The Falkens are great all purpose tires and offer excellent grip in the dry and wet......I use them on ALL of my vehicles.