RB26powered74zcar

Well Jamie, thats kinda his version. We looked around in his shop at several motors pans that were being re built, and this style seemed to be chosen on 2 out of three. I think either or will do just as good a job. The end result is to have the oil flow to a area of your choice, long as the pick ups are there... This is just my opinion of course. I'm no hot shot engine builder / racer like the guy I use here local. I just went with the combined knowlage from the guys at their machine shop. I really didn't want to use both pick up fittings on this pan. I didn't think it was nessary, but they all talked me into it since I already had them...

Ahhh... ye ol torque plate..

The 6th gear disn't come along until the R34 model. Its a compleatly different trans than the 5 spd.

Do you have any pics of that Z online anywhere? I'd like to see what a close neihbor is out looking for trouble in..... I'm just a stones throw from Baton Rouge.

Your right BIZERK.. thats why they are inside the trap door. The pick ups are at the rear of the pan, and the oil flows toward the pick ups upon accel. It just appears to be a$$ backwards... The large single hinge will open inward toward the p/u fittings, then the oil pump should draw only from that small area sectioned off with the bulkhead & hinge....

I finally got around to getting this pan finished up. This is a little different than I've seen it done, but I belive the end result will be the same. I'm using two -12 dry sump pick up fittings, which will T into one line to the oil pump fitting I have on the outside of my Jun oil pump. What do ya'll think?? anything mistake wise, jump out at you?? I will have the outside of the pan powder coated... click on pic

Sorry Kazu, I haven't been back under the car since last post. I will take a measurements asap, as I will be finally putting the alum pan on...

He probably tried to spin her to 9,000+ rpm like you could with the RB motor....

I've also seen where someone posted the part # 202-5401 which is for the L20 motor. I'd sure like to get this straitened out asap so that I can buy a set to install while my oil pan is being swaped for the alum pan.... *** calling; Matt Hutchens Motorworx Race Systems Japan **** Matt, can you please provide us with any info you may have on the main studs for the RB? If I knew what all to tell ARP on the phone (thread size/ pitch/ length) I would order a set and post the part # info here in the thread so others down the line can look it up for their builds... I know most guys use Greddy, Tomei and HKS brand studs over there, but the specs is what we need here to order some from ARP. I'm sure you know that info.

I hope I don't stir up this thread with that question again, of is it a R230, or a R200. I didn't mean to imply.... I really don't know what came in what as far a the Q goes... It looks to be as stout as the R230, with those biga$$ 6 bolt diff stubs...

Looks like the R230 version to me. (EDIT: just a guess though) What gear ratio is in it?

Looks great. I like that type of motor mounts. Its always nice when you can do things yourself, and save a butt load of money while doing it. Keep the pics coming, as there arn't to many pics yet showing the RB25 install into the 1st gen Z.

I don't know how they made them to be sold in Australia, but the Z32tt trans here have a front bell housing that can be removed from the rear section. Its been done here.... take a Z32tt trans, remove the front bell, replace it with a RB25 or 26 front bell section. The shifter type, and location after swap is the final hurdle to clear if you want to use it on your RB in a Z car...

What did you use for bumper brackets? I like the 280z lower valance shape. It has a nice big opening...

HeHe... me too. There are a ton of bidders out there that fit into that catagory. I belive its a sickness....

It's unfortunate, but sniping is a art you have to be good at to get good deals on ebay. If you don't have a cable connection, forget it..... Another way that helps me is, my browser (Mozilla Firefox) alows me to open up several "tabs" at the same time, so I can enter many different bid prices, one in each tab, then work it from there, starting at the last 30 sec of the auction.... It may not be the fair way, but heh, you have to have a advantage to win on that site....

We tend to try and weed out the guys that start off by not opening their eyes to whats here right in front of them, if you search on this wonderfull Z car site. For someone thats not very computer skilled, using the search function, and actually finding what your looking for, can be a pain. My advice to you is: Don't get upset when your told to search. Try every way you can think of as far as wording the search. If you keep your cool, and don't kipe a attitude, others will gladly help you find the info if you have trouble finding it. You must make an effort first though.... If staying with the orig. L6 motor, but modding it is your cup of tea, you'll find more info on how too's than you can read in one eve. As far as the other engine mods, esspecially the ones where you swap to a different motor, there are seperate sections with just as much great info in it. You just have to practice the art of SEARCHING.... Bottom line here is, we welcome all that want to gain the wealth of info here, but to be spoon feed the info gets old fast. Let most of the wise cracks roll off your back, cause no one here really trys to be an a$$. Just search first, ask questions second.....

I don't know if I'd trust the seller.... 1,900 neg feedbacks.... oh, nevermind, thats with 121,000 sells I like the lights...

Can you take a pic and show the shaft side by side, before and after. I'd like to see/ know how much off the lenghth you took if you can... thanks oh, and which end did you cut, inboard/ outboard?? thanks again joel

Did you pay your fees? You can't join up here just to sell parts... ** just kidding...