hughdogz

I have one like this: I found that if you help support the weight while it's cutting so it gets an even lower feedrate, it won't wander much at all. I've cut an 8 degree pie sliver with this method. I know my fab skills are nowhere near Austin's or Johns, but give it a whirl it may work for you. If you're cutting aluminum, it should go through like butter...HTH

Since I'm waiting more wiring supplies, I thought I'd go back to polishing the intake again. You can see that the filler aluminum is a lot shinier than the original alloy...I know, I know, I'm polishing the wrong side and this isn't going t make my Z go any faster. It doesn't look bad from two feet away, but the close-ups and reflections makes it look kinda crappy. Oh well...maybe one more time with the 1200 wet sanding and I can get the remaining scratches to come out!

Paul, that flipping license plate idea is very James Bond of you. I've seen just the opposite on a hot rod...last summer there was a kit car convention in California. One stopped at a gas station and I saw the licence plates flip under the bumpers when the guy turned the key off. Do you think it would impress Ron if I could run one of those flippers off a Wolf3d? Ha! That would be cool. When over 100 MPH, flip those plates...

Damn! That buildup is looking insane Monzter!! I'm kind of curious why you went with the V-clamps instead of silicone hump hose...there's not going to be a strain / fatigue problem when the engine is torquing? Nonetheless, AWESOME looking job!!

Time to run over some paint-guys now!! (j/k) I think it looks great even with the fascia paint a shade darker. You know it's required to run a front plate in Oregon, but I see plenty of cars without one and the cops don't seem to care. I'd probably reduce my Cd if I removed mine too!

Before I noticed your user name all I could think was STAN CRACK ?? I get it now...it looks cool Man!

The Z32's probably got a lot better anti-corrosion treatment from the factory than the previous generations did. I remember living in the midwest in the 80's and the Ziebart places would be everywhere. Now I don't see one...I think when the major OEM's started dipping the chasis at the factory it pretty much put an end to major rust problem. I found out that grease and dirt are great rust inhibitors for the early Z's.

I started designing the power supply for the EMS. It is 8x6x2.5 inches (210x150x63 mm) so I hope it's not too big for the 280ZX passenger side kick panel. I'll have to take some rough measurements before I start cutting and bending tomorrow.

Kind of late to be asking this, but have you tried calling Holley / Walboro and asked them if they'd replace it (for free)? If it's brand new and they can tell you didn't run 24V through it and it's not full of gunk I don't see why they wouldn't replace it.

Maybe the fuel damper went bad? (although it doesn't seem likely) I wonder what would happen if you ran a line from the fuel pump discharge into the tank filler for an easy test (just to see if it is flowing anything at all)? Anyway, I found an MSD pump in my garage (never used) that I'm willing to part with. PM me if you're interested. I will say the Bosch unit had the right size fittings and same diameter as the stock turbo FP, which made the MSD less desireable for my 280ZXT. Alongside the MSD was my receipt for the Bosch unit (0-580-464-021) that I paid $192 for over four years ago (list was $299?!) . I swear I should throw away my receipts!! Sometimes Evilbay is way cheaper than the local parts place.

Fire Extinguisher...

Damn! I'm glad you're all right...that sounds scary as hell. I thought you were going to say "then we sprayed water and it spread even more" I'm not trying to be an azz here, but I guess I know your vote for the what the #1 tool in your tool box should be...good grief...I'm lucky this hasn't happened to me yet.

I'm using this Bosch unit and it was a super-easy install: (It's good enough for a 3.6L turbo) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-FUEL-PUMP-NEW-911-924-944-1994-80TURBO-NO-TURBO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQihZ018QQitemZ280171768144QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW This MSD one flows plenty and is supposed to be an easy install too: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MSD-2225-HIGH-PRESSURE-IN-LINE-ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46101QQihZ016QQitemZ260181043553QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Bo, any idea what could have happened to the Walboro? I thought those were pretty much bullet-proof?! [Edit: Duh, you already mentioned these]

Hey, welcome our newest Admin!! Congratulations RON!! I know I've seen Ron go above and beyond helping out our fellow HBZ'ers (and helping to keep the threads "on the level"). If anyone deserved the distinction, I'm glad it was Ron!

That's wierd. I'm in the same boat. I want the 7.5" wide with +4 offset. The contact @ Rota said it will be awhile...it's been months since they said that. So, I checked with the salesperson at 18.racing and they said it will be another three months (and that was a couple of weeks ago). I know it's not good to speculate, but I bet they're still making the first batch and they might be on "the slow boat from China" as I type... BUT, any vendor should know that you cannot (I think lawfully) charge anyone for an item until the item is shipped. HTH, -Hugh

That's the work-safe version of the story of the woman with the peanut butter & the Doberman! (If my reply just made this thread not work-safe, then your mind is not work-safe. )

You could "test the waters" by putting in an unreasonably high reserve price (like $1000 or whatever the minimum $$ you'll take for them). The highest bid price will let you know what the market will bear. I'll give you $50 for them...

I thought that was a Q-tip at first. Anyone see the Dirty Jobs where they have to check the geese in Alaska for viruses entering the US? Kind of reminded me of that.

Hi Omar, It sounds like you already bought your IC. You say yours is pretty much like the one in the first link. The one in the link says it has 3" inlet and outlet, but the piping you point to says it is 2.5". So, you're going to need some kind of transistion to go from 3" to 2.5". If you want to use the stock S30 holes on either side of the radiator, then you might want to get 90 degree silicone elbows that transition 3" to 2.5 (assuming the IC length will let you align to the stock holes with those elbows). You're also going to need another transition to go from the 2.5" to the 2" compressor outlet (assuming you're using the stock T3). Another transition will be needed to go from the 2.5" IC piping to the 2.25" stock throttle body. The piping kits you point out are aluminum. Are you planning to weld the aluminum or just use all couplers? If you plan on welding, you might want to go with mild steel instead. If you're going to route between the engine and the radiator, can you squeeze in the 2.5" piping with a stock fan? you may have to go to an electric fan... If it were me, I'd get the IC piping from Columbia River Mandrel bending...just google it. Hope this helped...oh yeah, and there is no best.

Alrighty Ron, the cat is out of the bag now on the blow through ignition plugs. I heard that Prime EMS has a deal going with the Libians to acquire the nodule technology...I WANT...I WANT!!

The dyno revealed numbers incredibly close to the estimate using your 1/4 mile times!! If I remember correctly, you thought you had ~430 HP buy you really had ~438 HP Congrats John!! All your hard work paid off...and then some!

A blow-through ignition system is a waste of time IMHO. The electrons just scatter all over the place and you have no control. Now a draw-through ignition system is much better. Couple that with Ron #9 resistor and BRAAP's NONferrous magnetic NARP’s valve and then you'll have something.

Grunijel 2006: Switzerland 2006: 2005 Montage. It's so bad it's good! (sorry if this was a repost)

I would love to have devoted more of my time to Mini-Baja. But every year I'd find myself having to sacrifice studying to keep up with MB. After a couple months I'd have to drop MB. But in those few months, I really did learn a lot. Some stuff you'd learn before the profs explained it in class! With FSAE you'd be lucky to drive the car since there are so many students working on it (at least where I went to school). 78280z, if you're still reading this don't sell back your old textbooks to help finance a keg (or whatever)...you might need them later. Not quite every day, but I still need to use mine on a monthly basis and my co-workers borrow them too.

Big Phil, someone just called me from Roswell, New Mexico and they asked if I knew how to get a hold of you. They said they want their Intercooler back! Hmm...I would think that either your IAT sensor is bad, the transfer function is bad (the map of voltage vs. temp) or there is a big enough pressure drop through the IC that the air temp is dropping (which doesn't seem likely). I'm just throwing this out...I'm way less experienced than you guys are.