MAG58

D'oh. Just read that in the other thread.

I think it's more that the trans is bolted to the diff and that makes it really long, i.e. the front of the trans would be way up in the tunnel. Not sure that it would clear since the seats are right to the sides there. You've been under a Z though. Is there space to bolt up a T56 in the space just in front of the ring gear area? (Right about where the R200 narrows down to the pinion)

Which motorcycle did you get the shocks off of? And where do you plan on mounting them on the inside?

You're going to need one intense BFH and a bit of magic dust to get that transaxle in there. IIRC it has been discussed here before, but the general concensus is that the front of the tranny would probably end up right about where your tookis is planted.

Before this thread gets locked because we're all acting like very big boys and girls, let's see why the firing order is 153624 on virtually all I6's. Split the engine in two since you've basically got two I3's mirrored in an I6 That means you have 123 on one half and 456 on the other, putting the firing order together gives you this 1 _5 3 _6 2 _4 meaning that all exhaust pulses are exactly 120 degrees apart. If you fire all three front cylinders and then all three rear cylinders, then you'd get some really funky in harmonics in the exhaust, meaning that anything but a 6-1 header wouldn't see even firing pulses.

Intake pump= pump picks up gas from bottom of tank via that white mesh on the bottom. Only one line to go out.

We were talking about I6 L series, so that's what I was talking about.

I mean eventually it has to be a bag full of money. There has to be a statistic on this somewhere.

sort of. 2 cylinders are at TDC at once, so technically you could invert those firing orders, but you cant exactly invert cylinders that aren't at tdc at the same time. You're both right! Yay.

I'm not bashing it, by all means go for it! But now that you have my attention, how do you adjust the camber curves?

Depends on what the JY's and flea-bay would want for them. IMO It would look better than a pair of giant LED flashlights bolted to the nose.

mas⋅och⋅ism   /ˈmæsəˌkɪzəm, ˈmæz-/ Show Spelled Pronunciation [mas-uh-kiz-uhm, maz-] –noun 1. Psychiatry. the condition in which sexual gratification depends on suffering, physical pain, and humiliation. 2. gratification gained from pain, deprivation, degradation, etc., inflicted or imposed on oneself, either as a result of one's own actions or the actions of others, esp. the tendency to seek this form of gratification. 3. the act of turning one's destructive tendencies inward or upon oneself. 4. the tendency to find pleasure in self-denial, submissiveness, etc. 5. MONGO510 What would be the advantage to this over say, a multi-link that doesn't have to run a gutted strut and wouldn't have awkward camber curves?

Don't forget throwout bearing collar and clutch fork from the same transmission. Search around, I'm sure this has been done before on here, probably even on your MY.

In the majority of engines I've seen with knock sensors, they're mounted on the block. On my M104, it has two mounted about halfway down the block casting over cylinders 2 & 5. If you get it too close to the combustion chamber, you're going to get a whole bunch of noise in your signal.

It's really easy to check for a stuck relay... Give it a quick rap with the plastic end of a screw driver. That usually un-sticks it. I have mine tucked away so the water doesn't kill them.

Just wondering, why all the work for the R230 when you've only got an L31? At any rate, it's a short nose diff, so you'll need a custom shaft made regardless of transmission. If you're making your own mounts for the diff, make sure you have the pinion angles set correctly or any driveshaft you make will vibrate like there's no tomorrow. You really don't need some fancy custom driveshaft from some far off land. Contact a local, good driveshaft shop. Ask them where to take measurements to and from (usually it's from the centerlines of the u-joints, but some guys like it from centerline of the u-joint to the flange, etc, I've dealt with both). If you've got the correct flanges, they'll need those (remember the 71B transmissions have the same output shafts, but the T5 if you go that route is different). Other than that, just wait a bit and out pops your custom drive shaft.

Cars have always been a family thing for me, always. I've yet to date a girl who's been able to handle being at most equally important to the family/cars, god forbid less important. 'Tis a sad day when the majority of people request full devotion of another person and lack the ability to handle it when they aren't.

Nope. The newer ones (depending on which valve seals you're using) are just rubber on the bottom. If they were supposed to be there, a pronounced grove or lip for them to ride in would be at the bottom of the seal. And for the record, it took a small act of God to get mine off after 200k+

Agreed it sounds like the carrier bearing(s) have bought the farm. Which trans fluid are you running? Most modern gear fluids don't exactly play well with the yellowed metals in our transmissions.

Ferrari and the flappy-paddle gearbox Mercedes and crumple zones The Mini and transverse FWD (though there were some before it, none caught on) Benz and the car (Had to) Caddy and the cross plane V8

Hell nah! 720 pickup

Now that I've pulled apart a 2.8, 3.0, and 3.2 M104 I've got a few questions to ask about these heads... The biggest one is, which cylinder head design flows best? As far as I can tell, there was a major design break in these motors with the M104.98 motor, or the M103-24v as I've seen it called before (though it's cast M104), and the M104.94/.99 series of heads. The exhaust is the same on both head designs, the manifolds have the same flange etc., but that's about where the similarity ends. Cue pics... This is the late model head, that came out of a late W124 chassis car. The water port is on the front of the head and there is a slider on the intake side of the chain drive, not a roller. Pay no attention to the datsun head below it, that was for something else. Now this is the M104.980 head that I got when I pulled the motor out of a 1990 300CE-24. If you notice, the way the intake manifold mounts is much different as is the overall intake port design. Another interesting thing to note is that the valves are less visable on this engine as the angle cut on the intake mounting flange is actually opposite the angle cut on the later M104 head. That is to say, that this head was designed so that when the engine is mounted in the car at its 15 degree lean over, the intake mating surface is exactly vertical while the later model head has a pronounced angle to it, making the efi intake mount at a much more radical upward angle (if that makes sense.) Also, on this early model head, it has a tensioner sprocket located right below the intake cam, and the water outlet is directly on the side of the block, in the same location as the M103 water outlet (which I'm pretty sure is why it's there). Vs...again, don't pay attention to the datsun block it's sitting on... I guess the best question here is, does anyone know of someone in the midwest that will flowbench these two without charging an arm, a leg, and a firstborn?

Now that it's public knowledge that you've seen Paul in person, you may have precious moments to live. RUN! RUN NOW!

Just so we're clear, that was KPH, right? Glad you weren't hurt at any rate.

200 bucks?