MAG58

Great point. On a 'street' engine that puts out enough power that you have to run forged pistons, making sure the engine gets to operating temp before it's driven is always a must. However, on a real street engine, cast pistons are the way to go. They aren't as flexible as forged (which is why forged pistons are used in race applications, they can handle adverse conditions [read detonation] better than cast can) but they do substantially better than forged units during cold start and winter driving. ... Could be why I don't ever understand people that think they need a 1000hp daily driven car. Anyway, if you cant find ITM's, 1 fast z sells good cast pistons, and I think he may have the turbo CR as well. His company is B&M Machine, iirc. Also, keep an eye here on the classifieds, a set came up about a month ago of NIB ITM L28ET pistons.

Agreed. The point of adding a line lock is for driving on hills. A line lock can really only hold the car for about a minute before the fluid leaks back down. If you're using it to battle those annoying drivers that run up to your bumper on a hill start, the line lock is a good call. If you're looking for something to keep your car from running for freedom after you shut it down for the night, a few well placed pieces of masonry is the way to go.

www.ratsun.net home to a very interesting (wonderful?) group of datto fanatics. http://www.190rev.net --- Fighting the good fight against eurotrash for something from the EU that's actually tasteful.

Search for the member TimZ. He has one of the higher whp L28ET's around here and IIRC he's running ITB's for the intake of his GT42R powered monster.

Been there, it's pretty easy to forget that little search button sometimes. That said, if you're going with extrudabody ITB's, pics of the project are required. Or we will find you.

I got this... First link that isn't a video. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Extrudabody+ITB+240Z

That depends. How hard do you run it before you let it get to operating temp? Did you ever at any point lose oil pressure? Which damper are you running? Most engines tend to wear hard on the bearings as the damper starts to let go.

Agreed, in the 18 or so months I've used my 240 as my DD I think it's advanced itself a full 4-5 hours.

I'll just let hoov and flatty tackle this one. I'll stay here in the rust-belt. Nothing happens here. I'm not sure if there is any coming back from Oregon though. Poor gents.

Does anyone else find it interesting that they picked a place of very high altitude to test a turbo V6 vs NA V8's? I do. If motor trend wants real results they can do it on ground level where the rest of the world lives. But that probably means the new lincoln 'hot rod' would not have a chance.

Few things. 1. Crappy trigger and muzzle discipline. What wont this generation fail at next? 2. An SKS with that nice of a stock should not be in the hands of someone like that. 3. Given aux is right, those are probably the two heaviest things he's lifted in quite some time, he probably needed a nap. God forbid he exercise. 4. Even if I did have the ability to guess based on the gear in WoW, I would not divulge my knowledge of that skill to the public

awesome, is the WB02 back working yet?

*quietly lurking in the corner to avoid the crossfire*

Phleb, random question, which dizzy are you (were you?) using on your L24? On my DD I was using the old 280ZX non-turbo dizzy but swtiched back to the old L24 with an ignition box. Much more advance now.

How big of a motor do you plan on running? How much boost? IMO, you cant really beat a factory Nissan HG for performance with streetable power-levels. It's much cheaper too.

Oh the clean looking head with the ol' spray bar still attached. Should you ever find that it needs a new home, I may be in the market

Is this on an S130? When I pulled the pan on a JY ZX to see if it had a suspected crankshaft (it didn't ) I pulled the pan without pulling the motor or suspension. What I did: Remove the stuff that could hang up on the motor, or didn't have some inches of movement. Used the ear at the front by where the mechanical fuel pump used to be on the 240's (where the power steering is) and at the rear stud for exhaust to pick up with a cherry picker. Unbolted the engine mounts and lifted it 2-3 inches. From there you can drop the oil pan down just enough to get to the oil pickup and take if off as well. From there you can slowly slide it out the back of the engine. Be forewarned though it is a major PITA and would almost be easier to pull down the front suspension.

Could be, but yours has to be LSx Leg humper! ...though I do want a LSx in a W201. Oh dear. Oh dear. Ahem, AGAIN! Back on topic. Reading the reviews of the SHO, it's praised for it's impressive power delivery while still getting decent mileage, however it is spoiled with poor handling due to it's weight and nose heavy weight distribution. When are we going to get to the point were adding so much weight to a car in the event of making it safer and more user friendly (for today's current crop of fish-minded people that couldn't use that super technical 3rd pedal) that it actually makes the vehicle more dangerous?

Either way, it appears as if the corvette was doing somewhere close to it's limit.

Agreed. I have no idea what you can possibly put in a car to make it weigh over 2 tons. Perhaps lead? And You'd be surprised how the mid 90's cars compare price wise to the current crop of money pits. Both the W124 and BMW's 5 series are both seen to be a high cost investment, with the repair costs certain to keep it inhibitory. However, if you're willing to do the work yourself, the cost is not much different part for part than many of the other vehicles on the road. The stealerships have just successfully been able to get people to believe that only the dealer has the magic to fix one. A good FSM and it's no different from working on any other 90's era big sedan. Both the german offerings from bmw and mb offer vehicles that imo are going to be substantially more reliable than the current crop of 2+ ton monsters thundering about the streets. The only company I'm not a fan of is Audi, As I cannot see what logic was at work when they decided to put the entire engine, an iron V6 or V8 in front of the centerline of the front axle. Having all that crammed in the front makes for a big ol PITA to work on. As far as expensive bills, a friend of mine just had his clutch replaced at the stealership in his 98 eclipse for a cool $1100.00. Pass. Back on topic, I think there is one good thing here. Twin turbo, 360hp alloy V6? Who wants to turn it the correct way and stuff it in the Z?

I would get a W124 long before I got a ford for a Family car. I bet it would be way more fun as well... Though Datsun does have a solution for you... And Mat, I'm going to guess they used two smaller turbos since it wouldn't require extra space in that tupperware filled engine bay (pack them under the cylinder banks) and with a V6 it would make for a less messy exhaust routing as the downpipes off the turbos could be plumbed up just like any other V6 at that point.

This thing could seriously use a major diet. Over 4300 lbs. I believe that's double the weight of a pair of well prepped Series I 240's? http://www.egmcartech.com/2009/10/05/review-2010-ford-taurus-sho-its-show-time/

2 things. 1. Did you manhandle that short block in and out of your Z by yourself? If so kudos, and my condolences for your back. 2. Are you going to leave the stock damper on it? It's quite a giant little beast.

...and a teaser, because Paul needs another LSx Project...

Looks clean mat! How long until you start pushing up teh boost? ...and I've noticed something, the exhaust and intake are still on the same side, and there's still only 6 cylinders... Sorry, had to.