Kash

Yeah, I figure I must be losing a few psi due to the hy-lifters. However, I was hitting so much higher pressures with the 3.1 (all was above 180 psi, which made driving off boost much more pleasurable without driving around at high RPMs/ one gear up - that's my point). Just got done assembling the new 3.1, hope to have it installed and back on the road before the Giants game on Sunday. New CR should be about 8.7...hoping to hit at least 175 psi across all.

That's sold, thanks for sharing...if only I can find an OEM shifter bracket to mod as you did.

I have only been drive forced induction cars for over 30 years from Porsche to the 300zx twin turbo. As in life, most things are relative, the poor of boost drivability I was experiencing is being compared to the lively 9.3 to 1 compression 3.1 stroker turbo that I overboosted and broke the block sometime last year. Yes, I said was experiencing...pulled the engine a few weeks ago and had it bored out and I'm in the process of rebuilding the 3.1, this time I'm lowering the CR to 8.7 from 9.3 (1 mm HG to 1.75mm).

Anyone running the Nistune Type 1 Real-time Programming Daughter board installed with their Z31 ECU ('88 or '89) out there that care to comment on ease of use and true programming abilities for fuel and timing? And would you recommend? I'm currently running the JWT 450 Z31 ECU with cobra MAF (t3/ t4 turbo at 15 psi) and I would like to run a little higher boost (20psi) but will need to dial back timing and add a little more fuel accordingly. Thanks.

Anyone? Are these the trans that are similar to the Z32 trans but with an in board shifter?

No babying after the first 800 miles oil change...have been running it pretty hard. The compresion readings I am getting now is what I was expecting after the rebuild...I was hoping for mid to high sixties once broken in but it looks like I still have a few more miles before it is fully broken in but I really don't see it increacing much more. Still feels a little too lazy drinig off boost, think I'm going to rebuild my 3.1.

Quick follow-up, all compression readings now range from 140 to 150psi after 3000 miles...still not happy, was hoping for 160 or higher.

Got one, thanks all.

Can you make me a set?

Responded.

Great, let me know....

WTB: 1978 280z wiper motor bracket (only)…do not need the motor. Please quote price shipped to 60423 via PayPal and availability. Thanks Ken (847) 345-1215

94 thru 2001 Acura Integra wiper motor works great...connect wires per attached file in other FQA wiper stickie, drill three new holes to mount motor and you are done.

Did you get this worked out...I'm in need of a replacement wiper motor for my '78.

Man, that car is beautiful...it's what I have been dreaming of for my car.

Permanent!

Tony D, I have a lot of respect for your input so I will hold off on changing the headgasket and run it for at least 3000 miles. Sam, I'm running a p90a head with hydraulic lifters. Thanks to all for your inputs.

I completed a follow-up compression test with oil (four squirts in each cylinder from a 4in oil can) and the readings are as follows: #1- 175psi, #2- 170, #3- 177, #4- 175, #5- 172, #6- 175 Can anyone elaborate on what the new numbers are tell me…is this much of an increase normal or expected for a properly sealing engine (from 120 to 170psi)?

Man, you had me fooled...looks really great!

Only the short block was rebuilt after my 3.1L stroker block was destroyed.

The compression readings across all six cylinders are exactly 120 psi (hot and cold), very consistent but about 30 psi too low in my estimate. Per the available online engine calculators, my static compression is approximately 7.6. I checked and double checked the timing chain and it is spot on…cam sprocket notch is a tad to the right of the mark at TDC on the power stroke. Quick overview of short block rebuild (somewhat unconventional): LD28 stroker crank OEM L28 Turbo pistons with crown machined down by 2.25mm (Pin height is 35.85 and new dish volume is approximately 3cc) New ITM rings set off Ebay New Timing Set (Chain, guides and tensioner) L28 rods Metal headgasket, 2.2mm P99 virgin/uncut head Bock was roughed up/deglazed by a rental hone form Auto Zone with a little extra attention at the upper and lower sections of the cylinders to remove old ring stops/edges to allow for the longer stroke (top/bottom). Car starts up and runs great. Any ideas why my compression is so low? My original turbo engine (with an OEM compression ratio of 7.3) was in the upper 140’s.

I'm in the process of reassembling my motor, however, the Felpro gasket kit includes two flat rubber seals and matching flat pins for the rear main bearing cap...a little diffent than the ones I took out. Can anyone point me in the right direction regarding the proper installation of these seals and the flat pins. Here are the steps I'm about to follow, please correct if needed: 1. Install rear main cap with some RTV sealant on the ends and torque. 2. Install the two rubber seals on each end of rear main cap with wiper ends facing out. 3. Then drive in the 2 flat pins behind the rubber seals (bewteen cap and rubber seal). This is the step I'm not certain about. Does the pin get inserted between the seal and the cap or between the block and the seal? A quick response within the the next few hours would be great...should at that point by then, thanks. Ken

Can anyone state exactly how to install these side seals and the 2 flat pin? Is it as follows: 1. Install rear main cap with some RTV sealant on the ends and torque. 2. Install the two rubber selas on each end of rear main cap with wiper ends facing out. 3. Then drive in the 2 flat pins behind the rubber seals on the cap side (one on each side). This is the step I'm certain about. Does the pin get inserted between the seal and the cap or between the block and the seal? Thanks. Ken

Did you figure this out?