Kash

All turbos have a larger oil pump...no difference.

That's what I was figuring, thanks for confirming...couldn't I mill the rod instead?

Too wide of a plug gap or too high of a fuel pressure under boost.

The last time I saw these symptoms I had a broken ring land on piston number 1 and there were no noticeable scars in the cylinder wall just low compression (130 while all others were 150+).

Might still be leaking oil across the turbo seal from too high of an oil pressure...pretty certain your oil rings and valve seals are fine, if they were replaced during the rebuild.

That's correct...

While any oil today is better than anything yesterday, you could be loosing up to 5% hp with anything higher than 10/40 and gunking up the engine if you are running conventional oil...I use 10/30 Mobil 1 syn on my stroker turbo and just got done pulling it apart after 30K miles (busted block) and the internals are cleanier that what they were when I assembled it a few years ago; all look like new parts...rods, pistons, crank, head, timing chain assembly, you name it.

Will the L24 rods fit the RB26dett pistons with no modification? Per the engine calculator, the piston end bores are the same (21) but the piston end thicknesses are different between the L24 rods (25.4) and the RB rods (21.8). Not certain what the piston end thickness is…is this the piston clearance needed to fit the rods? If so, I will assume that the L24 rods would not fit the RB26 pistons. Can anyone confirm or deny? Lost my oversized (89mm) block to cracks so now I need a set of 86mm turbo pistons to reassemble with my LD28 crank and stock block...the OEM turbo pistons won't work, they will be protruding 2mm above deck with the stroker crank. If this is a go I will be needing a set of used OEM RB26 turbo pistons, if anyone has a set for sale or can send me one for testing, I would apreciate (I will pay for shipping both ways). Thanks.

Will the L24 rods fit the RB26dett pistons with no modification? Per the engine calculator, the piston end bores are the same (21) but the piston end thicknesses are different between the L24 rods (25.4) and the RB rods (21.8). Not certain what the piston end thickness is…is this the piston clearance needed to fit the rods? If so, I will assume that the L24 rods would not fit the RB26 pistons. Can anyone confirm or deny? Lost my oversized (89mm) block to cracks so now I need a set of 86mm turbo pistons to reassemble with my LD28 crank and stock block...the OEM turbo pistons won't work, they will be protruding 2mm above deck with the stroker crank. Thanks.

Number 6 cylinder wall is busted on the side between #5...dang it! My oversize stroker days are over. Thanks to all for your help.

Good point, I don't have top remove the piston. I can hold the chain tight and in-place while I rotate the crank/#6 to BDC.

I'm really starting to think that it is the block because it was bored out to 89mm for my stroker build. I will pull piston #6 tomorrow and check for cracks in the cylinder wall. That would explain water in cylinder #6 but it would not explain that much water getting into the oil...cracks between the oil and water passages maybe?

Unfortunately no, I didn't have it checked for cracks only to make sure that it was straight. I also had water mixing with the oil and getting into #6 with the original head after the headgasket blew; however, it was not as bad with the original metal headgasket.

Currenly have the head off but it is hard to discern the path of the water to #6 and the oil...the metal headgasket looks good to the eye (my eye - are there any key indicators when inspecting a metal headgasket?) and there are no visiable crack on the surface of the head or block deck.

I blew my metal headgasket a few weeks ago after over adjusting my manual boost controller (up to 20psi). Needless to say I broke the ring lands on pistons 5 and 6 and I had water coming out of #6 and in my oil. I replaced both pistons and reassembled the engine with another p99a head that I had sitting around that I had straightened with a light skim a year ago to make sure it was true. I did not reused the metal headgasket that was installed when the engine blew up, instead, I installed another USED metal headgasket that I purchased form a fellow HybridZer. Got everything back together and had good compression across all six cylinders (140’s). I started it up and it was missing right out of the gate with water blowing out the turbine downpipe (exhaust not installed). Ran it for a little while and pulled the plugs: 1 thru 5 was nice and dry but # 6 was loaded with water. Checked my oil and it was milky, I drained out over 9 quarts of oil and water, I did not have this much water inmy oil when it first blew up and I ran the engine much longer then. Is it a bad headgasket, a cracked block or head? Don’t mind shelling out the $ for a new metal headgasket, if that’s it, just don’t to spend that kind of money if that’s not the problem. Any help diagnosing would be greatly appreciated. Ken

Currently in the same boat, anyone know the size keensert/ timesert or helicoil kits that I will need to replace several of my stripped cam tower threads? thanks.

Do you know if anyone offer a turn key set-up with core swap?

Need a few more pic's...

Your compression numbers look a little low even for a turbo...the last time I had too much smoke coming from my valve cover I had a broken ring land and the compression in cylinder #1 was in the low 120's while all others were in the 150's. All your numbers are consistent so that's a good thing.

Nothing magical about the turbo swap ingnition harness...one wire form pin#5 (IIR) on the Turbo ECU for the ingnition coil triger and the other is a +12V from the ignition switch. Simple as that, make you own...oh, you will need a "T" connector to plug the two wires onto the ignitor.

I'm having a little different problem, the high beam on the right side (only) of the car comes on when I turn the parking lights on. I replaced the switch but that did not help and it switches to low beam when I trun the switch to the head light position...any ideas ('78 2880z)?

not bad a move phill...BTW, is the Haltech set-up for sale?

The turbo AFM is a tad bigger with larger intake and outlet...if you have a turbo do the z31 MAF swap and be done with it.

you can't over cool in Fl...go with the three row.

Can someone who have this running right post up a diagram?