slownrusty

Not only is it light its sexxxxy...and good luck finding a non rotted RX2 for a decent price... Yasin

Yup, you are right that was bothering me...and after taking your suggestion and thinking about it some more, I completely reworked the top intercooler pipe and also the radiator hoses accordingly. Looks better and I feel much better with the outcome now. Thanks for chiming in. Regards - Yasin

I have changed name of this project from "wheeZer" to project "4ever'N'broke"..LOL Anyway I finally made some progress on mounting things and running the lines, pipes and plumbing...and thought I would share. Everything is removed: Sanded all for paint and primer: Painted, Mounted and fabbed: The radiator is a unit that Dave from Arizona Z Car made for the ZX cars, I made custom mounts for it due to the intercooler pipe clearance. The oil cooler is a Perm-a-cool coil with -10 lines and Earls fittings. The intercooler designed by me and made by Corky Bell. I need about another half day to make a few support brackets and misc items and I will probably do something funky with the intercooler pipes. Making some progress finally. Hoping for July completion cross fingers. My best - Yasin

Wow...that looks amazing...kudos!!! That is a staright car. Yasin

From the latest Hagerty Newsletter, they normally feature American and European classics and muscle so its great to see this exposure on Japanese cars (its about damn time!). Enjoy - Yasin

Please ask for permission before posting pics of my car (the blue 240Z on the right). Thanks in advance and welcome to HybridZ Yasin

Awesome!! Love that color and the stripes too....I did a similar layout back in 1996 on my Datsun truck too. Yasin

My post does not pics of the aluminum spacers I made. It does have pics of the fitment on the car. I will snap a few this weekend (hopefully). Yasin

Wow...Joel looks awesome...that is going to transform your car. Beautiful and the price is VERY fair. Yasin

Looking good, nice straight clean looking car....is that overspray on the driveway? Yasin

Refinishing wheels…is hard, dirty work, there is no way to slice it, other than embrace it! LOL! Prep: The hardest part is the prep and is the most important part. So what is involved with that: Tools: A good quality air driven die grinder About $20 worth of fine, medium and coarse pads for the die grinder (from Harbor Freight tools) At minimum a 20gallon, 3hp air compressor (the bigger the better here, a full height 30+ gallon with 5hp would be better suited) All factory coating has to be stripped off!! Depending on the wheel you are dealing with and the existing coating (for example clear coat, paint etc), you could start with a chemical paint stripper. Start using the coarse pads and then removing all the casting marks from the wheels were cast and all the scratches and imperfections that occurs over time. Then move onto the medium pad and then the fine. Its analogous to sanding a car before painting working from 80 grit right to 600 grit. Polishing: Tools: A good quality hand grinder 4.5†with a minimum 10amp and 10,000 rpm motor rating Two clay compounds (bought as bricks). One to remove the scratches caused during the prep stage and then the final clay compound to actually give the mirror finish. You need a 10inch buffing pad for each clay brick (on other words two). And then you will need some acetone and a microfiber cloth for the final wipe and detail. Slow’N’Rusty Disclaimer: You also need a good 3M breathing mask, rubber gloves, an eye protection, this stuff will GIVE you cancer, as it is air borne aluminum dust mixed with clay, do not put your health at risk! For $10 save your ass please. Also be very careful with the angle grinder, you will TAKE off your finger or severely injure yourself if you are not comfortable running at 10,000rpm and once you hit an edge, it will go away on you and mess you up, depending on your stand. Use your 10†cotton pad on the grinder work the heck out of the wheel making sure all the imperfections and scratches are gone, such that the wheel is starting to have a mirror finish and perfectly smooth and flat on the particular surface. This takes a lot of time and repetitive and is the crappy part of the job. Finish the job with the final polishing clay brick and its own 10†cotton pad and then wipe down the wheel with Acetone and a microfiber cloth. Time: typically 1.2-2hours per wheel. Cost about $30 (materials) for all 4 wheels. If you need pics…I got a bunch of those too! Regards - Yasin

I put well over 220wheel hp and 12psi of boost on my NA tranny and it was perfect, that included several stop light encounters and a few smokeys too. I pulled this tranny from a junkyard car and it was flawless (sometimes you get lucky when you go to the junk yard). Regards - Yasin

I would cut and splice in the section you need from a junkyard or donor car, I did this with my old Toyota Corolla GT-S and it worked and fit perfectly. My scrap yard allows me to take power tools in which is why this was feasable in the first instance. Regards - Yasin

So where are the pics of the new aquisition itself? Yasin

I have that same spolier and I really like it. In fact I bought three of them, in case my gets cracked or damaged, these are now defunct and no longer available. I have a post on the fit of mine. I actually made spacers and designed aluminum brackets which a friend of mine tigged for me to help the mounting and make it stronger. I should be painting mine in a few weeks with the final fit following right after. Pics to come. Yasin

Looks awesome Q! Must be incredile to drive (understatement). Give the shop owner and the boys my best! Yasin

Doc..the other set is for a SBChevy. Good catch About 4weeks. Yasin

I paid $1200 for these custom slugs from JE for my L30Turbo project...a bitter pill to swallow! Yasin

Not matter how you slice it...California is true automotive lover's heavan. There are great cars everywhere you turn...! Yasin

Jerry - Sorry to hear this that is tragic and a tough lesson learnt. We have all taken lots of chances with cutting wheels, angle grinders, saws etc...and we do not realize how we place ourselves at such excessive danger until its too late and something happens. Our best to your dad. Yasin

Yup that would be me, I custom made mine and have a good step by step (if I may say so) on how to fabricate one starting with the Miata pod as a base. Do a serach under "slownrusty" and "gauge pod" Regards - Yasin

Start crying for sure!! That picture just brought me to my knees..... Such a shame... Yasin

Wow...I love it...it needs to be 3000lbs with the twinturbo 3.8L GTR motor! Yasin

I would never seal a gas tank!! Over time those coatings will eventually fail in chunks and cause more problems than actual rust in the tank. The key is to keep your tank full most of the time and not run in low and keep it low. Remember gasoline is one of the most powerful solvents and will eventually eat away at these coatings I have done this more times than I care to remember and I NEVER re-seal or re-coat a tank - waste of time and money. Remember the factory does not even seal the tank. I have seen supposedbly the best - POR and Eastwood coatings also fail over time. BTW, when a gas tank is boiled, it is done so in moderately strong Caustic Soda which is Sodium Hydroxide, so it is not an Acid like most people think. Regards - Yasin

Beautiful pics, many thanks for sharing! The Miura and the Pantera are my favs by far. Yasin