JSM

I use my little 4 cyl frontier for all of my towing. Just go slow. I've been all over the state pulling Z's.

What are u wanting to spend?

If you don't have a little silver box connected to the harness which are the dropping resistors then it is likely an 82/83. Also look at the distributor or take a pic and post it. If it has a big cap it is the 82/83. If it looks like the smaller 240z cap then it is an 81'.

Cool. How was the fit?

Why not simply replace the ECU with another and go that route. Seems so much cheaper and easier. Did sunrise not have an ECU to try?

A lot depends on the price. Anything can be fixed but cost more if you have it done vs doing it yourself. If you have the skills and can get the car cheap enough do it. Be prepared to find more rust then what you see. Always seems to be that way with Z's.

Do u have a pic David?

Yep and yep!

From the research I've done I'm not aware of a 3.36 coming in a 79'. They only came in a 74' 2+2. Also, I'm not aware of the 3.54 in 81' 5 speed. Turbo automatic, sure. At least for the US.

The 1975-80 L28 motors put out a rated 135hp while the 1981-83 L28 motors were 145 net. The little plate on the shock tower in the 1975-78 280Z's engine compartment may say 170hp SAE but thats gross HP...a sneaky 1970s way of saying 135 net. Taken from here: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

I quit pulling stub axles for this same logic. I just became such a hassle.

[quote name='TieFighter88' timestamp='1344401423' post='1013351' Is that from your old 240 that was on the HRE's? Sad to hear she wrecked. Yep it sure was.

You can have mine for $50. I can shoot a few pics if you want. It's not in my way so if u don't want it no big deal.

In my opinion, the hardest part is removing the dash and putting the pedal assembly in. You need the pedal set, Clutch cylinder and line, tranny, clutch slave, shifter, shift boot (inner and outer), tranny crossmember and driveshaft.

I read that already. That swap was also on Z31performance. I don't want to make a $300 assumption!

I've got a roof from my 73 I'll let go fairly cheap.

I was looking for an internal pic of the VLSD from an 88 300zxt. The one I looked at today had the axles, but when the cover was removed it looked like a standard open diff to me. He was trying to tell me that the VLSD portion was located behind the Ring gear. I searched google pics, here, and Z31Performance and couldn't find a diffinitive pic so I'm asking if any one has one? In reading the Rear End FAQ in the drivetrain section, it states the VLSD aren't as grabby as the CLSD. I'm curious when spinning one axle on the VLSD, should the other axle spin the same direction like the CLSD as stated in the FSM? I couldn't find any reference to the VLSD in the 88 FSM. When I spun the axle on this supposed VLSD, the other axle went the other way like a normal open diff would do.

Just in general. The spotty ness is everywhere. Did the car come from FL?

Oh my what a story. I would be a little concerned on your rust issues. Either there is a lot of rust hidden or they did a bad job prepping it. Do you know how long it has been since it has been painted? You might have rust in your tank too. I would change the fuel filter and install an inline fuel gauge so u can actually see what the pressure is.

On our 78 my sons brake light acted like yours did. I switched the electronic floats in the MC from front to back and it went away. The light coming on like you described.

Did you find one? I finally found mine by accident today. Let me know. Marked correctly when removed.

It is also detailed in the 89 FSM, PD section starting on page 30. Might be in the 88 too, not in my 87 book. Simple procedure. The one I'm looking at is out of the car and drained.

Thanks guys Shoot the one I'm looking at is drained no idea what fluid was in there. Guess I'll just chance it.

I could have sworn there was a procedure for testing the LSD in the FSM but for the life of me I cant find a thing in it. I know what the internals and such look like, but I thought the procedure using a torque wrench to measure the torque / resistance to check for slippage.